1978 New Yorker, thoughts?

[1978 NYB]

Yes, same principle but different manifold and tube location at the exhaust manifold. Mine use to come out of the very rear of the exhaust manifold near the firewall, Presently, all of the emission stuff is gone or no longer functional on my NY'er.

 

[1978 NYB]

I couldn't attach the picture of the tube on my NY'er on the last post.





Did you replace the lean burn? I did and replaced the exhaust, intake, and carb on my 400ci motor and gas mileage went up considerably.

Did you get the radio working? I'm wondering if the antenna or the fuse might of been the problem.

 

[mckinnon45]

I did replace the Lean Burn. I have not touched the exhaust, carb, or intake though. I take that back, the Carb was "rebuilt" with new parts, but it's the one that was originally on it. I am getting between 11-12 MPG at the moment with the 440.

I haven't messed with the radio yet either. I drive 4 miles to work and drive my wife's Mustang when we travel, so it doesn't bother me or cross my mind very often. I get 1 AM radio station at the moment. need to replace radio anyhow, the tuning knob doesn't "tune". I think the band is worn out inside, because you can feel it catch but it doesn't move the needle.

 

[1978 NYB]

I have the same problem with my radio, dead spots where the tuner band slips. I have an am/fm/cb Chrysler factory radio in mine.

 

[commando1]

I have the same problem with my radio, dead spots where the tuner band slips. I have an am/fm/cb Chrysler factory radio in mine.

Time to upgrade, boy:

 

[1978 NYB]

I might as well, the CB antenna is broke also. Are the stereo's limited in choice for formals because of the radio opening or are the install/adapter kits available/work with anything? Did you upgrade your speakers too! Did you do it yourself or let the geek squad at Best Buy install it for you?

 

[commando1]

I might as well, the CB antenna is broke also. Are the stereo's limited in choice for formals because of the radio opening or are the install/adapter kits available/work with anything? Did you upgrade your speakers too! Did you do it yourself or let the geek squad at Best Buy install it for you?

I did it myself. Not because I'm cheap but because those slice and dice hacks don't know how to do it right. Well, yah. Cuz I'm cheap, too...

There is no aftermarket radio made by anyone that fits the Chrysler 1 1/2 DIN opening. There are adapter kits to make all the single DIN aftermarket radios fit in the stock opening but those George Jetson whoopty-do looking units look like **** in our formals in my humble opinion. Your tastes may vary.

To keep it factory looking, you need the factory 1 1/2 DIN AM/FM/CD unit off of eBay from these applications:

Dodge:
1987-2000 Dodge Dakota
1984-1993 Dodge Daytona
1987-1989 Dodge Diplomat
1998-2000 Dodge Durango
1988-1993 Dodge Dynasty
1993-1997 Dodge Intrepid
1985-1989 Dodge Lancer
1995-1999 Dodge Neon
1987-1993 Dodge Ramcharger
1987-2003 Dodge Ram fullsize B-van
1987-2001 Dodge Ram fullsize trucks
2002 Dodge Ram 2500 and 3500 trucks
1987-1994 Dodge Shadow
1989-1995 Dodge Spirit
1984-2000 Dodge Caravan and Grand Caravan

Jeep:
1996-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1997-2002 Jeep Wrangler
1997-2002 Jeep Cherokee

Chrysler:
1989-1991 Chrysler Maserati TC
1993-1997 Chrysler Concorde
1987-1993 Chrysler 5th Avenue
1990-1993 Chrysler Imperial
1993-1997 Chrysler LHS
1984-1986 Chrysler Laser
1984-1995 Chrysler LeBaron
1984-1997 Chrysler New Yorker
1990-2000 Chrysler Town and Country

Plymouth:
1989-1995 Plymouth Acclaim
1987-1989 Plymouth Grand Fury
1992-1994 Plymouth Duster
1987-1994 Plymouth Sundance
1984-2000 Plymouth Voyager and Grand Voyager

They bolt right in with ZERO cutting and modifications. No face plate adapter. No nothing. That's the beauty of these units! SLICK!

Your two front 5 1/4" and your two rear 6"X9" speakers are probably toast so replace those.

Your current rear speakers are single wire. You have to run a pair of two wire leads to your new rear speakers.

Your current front speakers are two wire but the L&R ground wires merge into a common ground so you need new two lead wires for the fronts also.

You need a Scosche CR01B connector kit for the radio ($3.75 on Amazon).

You need four sources of 12V to go into your radio.
1. The existing stock power lead that is hot when the key is on only.
2. A new 12V constant power lead for the radio memory (tap off the cigarette lighter lead. It's right there anyway.
3. A lead running from the headlight switch that is hot only when the headlights come on (this controls the day/night display)
4. The existing stock 12V power lead for dimming the illumination.
The illumination wiring may sound contradictory but the display is powered separately from the radio controls illumination.

Most of the factory units on ebay have the CD/Cassette setup and are cheaper of course than the radios with just the CD because who the hell wants a cassette player if you're spending the money to upgrade in the first place. The unit with just the CD player is harder to find but they pop up fairly often. The one advantage to the units with the cassette player is you can use an iPod/MP3 adapter in the cassette.

 

[70NPORT]

Finally got it done yesterday. I think it's more than time for a coolant flush also... That's definitely next on the list! I got the 180.

And by the way, I did not want to remove the compressor in the parking lot and found out how hard it is to get to the 2nd bolt in the thermo housing under the compressor. Is a swivel socket about the only way to get there?? Even a 1/4" drive U-joint was still too tall for that area. I ended up going to Autozone and getting a stubby wrench and skinning some knuckles, but got it!

That's just outright "fugly":icon_neutral:

 

[mckinnon45]

100% agree!

 

[mckinnon45]

I believe I know the answer, and it's yes based on what I've looked at so far....But I'll ask anyway...
Will a radiator out of a 74 Newport with a 400 be the same as the one out of this 78 NY with a 440? I looked up both parts on online parts stores, and the part number was the same for the 2, just figured I'd ask the experts.

I have a radiator for a 400 that's in great shape that I am going to try.

Radiator shop said old Mopar radiators are bad for plugging, and require more than just a "boil" to get all the stuff out of the fins, he said he actually has to remove the top of the radiator and clean each row of fins 1 at a time, which would be $125. My extra radiator was free and clean, so if it's the same it's worth a shot!

 

[commando1]

Everything you said make sense.
Go with the free 400 radiator.
But man, I don't know what you're going to do about the heater core. Cross your fingers.
You're really going to have to go Nuclear on a super power flush on the whole system.
Chemicals, chemicals, and more chemicals.
Do several flushes with one of them being Tide laundry detergent powder.

 

[1978 NYB]

I can't see the thermostat or housing too clearly, but it looks like something might be causing that colagulation other then maybe sitting a long time. I don't think anyone asked what color is your engine oil? If it's black you are good to go. If it's gray or a milky color you may have a bigger problem.

 

[mckinnon45]

Thanks for the tips guys, and NYB, I actually just ran outside to check oil, we are good to go. It's not black as it's not that old yet, but it's certainly not milky or gray. Which is good.

 

[commando1]

It just occurred to me that a likely scenario for all that gunk is a previous owner used a ton of BarsLeak Radiator Sealer. Hmmm...
Do your several flushes withOUT a thermostat BTW.
Heater on MAX.
1st flush: Radiator flush from one of the chain stores.
2nd flush: Tide
3rd flush: Cascade dishwasher liquid (YES you read that correctly)
Last flush: stick the garden hose in there and walk away for 1/2 an hour.

My environmentally unacceptable way
but there are no pets running loose so I don't care:
Plus it cleans my concrete driveway.

 

[has2bmopar]

My environmentally unacceptable way
but there are no pets running loose so I don't care:

Could it be that you've killed them all already?

 

[polara71]

Stan, one of these days I hope to meet you. My only disappointment will be that you dont look like your icon.

 

[commando1]

I told you before. I'm mistaken for Brad Pitt all the time....

Could it be that you've killed them all already?

I know nobody will believe this but it is true.
I AM an extreme animal lover, member of the ASPCA, make donations, rescue injured animals and wildlife, etc.
My eyes well up when those Humane Society ads show on TV.
See? I do have a softer side to me than I appear to have to most people.
PS: Don't let this get around, OK?

After my wife, the most precious things in my life. I spend more money on them than on my cars and I don't regret one penny of it:

fftopic: OK. Enough of this mushy -softy stuff.

 

[mckinnon45]

While I'm in there, I am leaking coolant at that area on the firewall. I can't tell where it's coming from for sure, but there's just a nice little pool and streak coming down the firewall. New clamps, or something fairly common? Sorry for all the trivial questions, but I have to have ALL my parts when I go to fix this car, since I live a ways from my parents...(Which is where my shop and tools are)

 

[commando1]

Old hoses get very brittle at their ends.
Fast fix: Cut off an inch or two on the end.
Proper fix: New hoses and clamps. Just takes a screwdriver.

 

[1978 NYB]

Chances are those heater hoses could be decades old. Be careful when removing the heater hose from the heater core tube. The hose can be fused to the heater core tube. Best to use a razor knife to cut the hose lengthwise where it goes over the heater core tube and spread the hose with a screwdriver to remove it. Twisting the hose if it's fused to the heater core tube may damage the heater core tube or even break it off from the heater core.