318 mopar wont start

[santts]

So I was cranking my 318 mopar in my 65 Fury and it just quit . Now I have a no start from the key. So I bypassed starter and started at the relay with a screwdriver and fired right up. I drove for an hr with no issues. Why the no key start? Starter ? I checked fues , Ballest resistor Seem ok.

 

[68T&CCruiser]

Neutral Safety wire? Make sure it checks out like a “ground”. Run a circuit testing light with the positive battery post to the brown “neutral safety wire “

 

[santts]

Neutral Safety wire? Make sure it checks out like a “ground”. Run a circuit testing light with the positive battery post to the brown “neutral safety wire “

The neutral safety switch/ harness is out for now so I could start in any gear . That's the way I bought it . I haven't put it back yet so I've ruled that out .

 

[santts]

The neutral safety switch/ harness is out for now so I could start in any gear . That's the way I bought it . I haven't put it back yet so I've ruled that out .

Ive

 

[CBODY67]

After I installed the old Mopar Perf ignition kit, I started the car 4 consequtive times. On the 5th try, nothing. Got out the meter and voltage everywhere, but nothing from the key. New starter relay did not change anything. Battery terminals were tight and looked good . . . . . UNTIL I noticed a thin layer of grunge between the inside of the terminal and the battery posts. But they were TIGHT!

Got out a wire brush battery terminal cleaner. Cleaned the posts and the inside of the terminals. Then it started perfectly after that.

Just my experience,
CBODY67

 

[57fury440]

The ignition key is in the dash on 65 Furys if I remember correctly. I would pull out the switch and make sure it is working properly. If you cross the wires from the switch and it starts, then that may be your problem.

 

[CBODY67]

Also check the "big red wire" going to the switch and where it plugs into the bulkhead connector by the fuse block. That supplies power to the switch.

CBODY67

 

[santts]

Thanks . Gonna test tonight

 

[Big_John]

So I was cranking my 318 mopar in my 65 Fury and it just quit . Now I have a no start from the key. So I bypassed starter and started at the relay with a screwdriver and fired right up. I drove for an hr with no issues. Why the no key start? Starter ? I checked fues , Ballest resistor Seem ok.

I'll bet the starter relay has failed.

Have someone hold the ignition key in the "start" position and check for voltage at the yellow wire. If you have voltage there, it's the relay. That's not an uncommon failure.

Ballast resistor and fuses have nothing to do with this.

The neutral safety switch/ harness is out for now so I could start in any gear . That's the way I bought it . I haven't put it back yet so I've ruled that out .

You need to fix this ASAP. It's dangerous and quite frankly, there's no good excuse for not having it in place.

That said, the relay must have that terminal grounded some way. The relays built for manual trans cars have a tab that grounds to the case. The case then grounds to the body. If that is the case, check for proper ground. If it's jumper wired to ground some other way, check for ground at those connections. IMHO, if the person that sold it to you had it configured that way, everything is now questionable.

 

[halifaxhops]

There should be two wires to the ballast resistor. One is the start volage and when it goes to run it goes to the other one in run position.. Definitely sounds like it is in the start side.

 

[santts]

What about the starter solenoid? Do they go bad? That's how I started it.

 

[santts]

I'll bet the starter relay has failed.

Have someone hold the ignition key in the "start" position and check for voltage at the yellow wire. If you have voltage there, it's the relay. That's not an uncommon failure.

Ballast resistor and fuses have nothing to do with this.

You need to fix this ASAP. It's dangerous and quite frankly, there's no good excuse for not having it in place.

That said, the relay must have that terminal grounded some way. The relays built for manual trans cars have a tab that grounds to the case. The case then grounds to the body. If that is the case, check for proper ground. If it's jumper wired to ground some other way, check for ground at those connections. IMHO, if the person that sold it to you had it configured that way, everything is now questionable.

 

[santts]

Starter solenoid. Is this referred to as a relay as well? This is how I jumped it to get running due to no start from key. Do they go bad?

 

[CBODY67]

(Why does that look like a FORD starter solenoid?? Tissue rejection??)

 

[Big_John]

Starter solenoid. Is this referred to as a relay as well? This is how I jumped it to get running due to no start from key. Do they go bad?

Well, that's a Ford starter relay. The Ford piece is usually called a "solenoid" and Chrysler refers to theirs as a "relay". Really no difference in this case.

Yes, they can fail... and that also explains the lack of a neutral starter switch.

I'd pitch it and put the right one on with the neutral switch. I usually say to test first, but in this case, I'd just replace with the right part... and then start looking at what else the PO did.

 

[santts]

Well, that's a Ford starter relay. The Ford piece is usually called a "solenoid" and Chrysler refers to theirs as a "relay". Really no difference in this case.

Yes, they can fail... and that also explains the lack of a neutral starter switch.

I'd pitch it and put the right one on with the neutral switch. I usually say to test first, but in this case, I'd just replace with the right part... and then start looking at what else the PO did.

Thanks. That's interesting. Been driving for two years with it. I've replaced several ignition parts but not this one. I do have the neutral safety harness which was unplugged underneath. I pulled it out for now .

 

[Big_John]

Thanks. That's interesting. Been driving for two years with it. I've replaced several ignition parts but not this one. I do have the neutral safety harness which was unplugged underneath. I pulled it out for now .

Really, I would change it even if it was working. Many years ago, I saw a car careen across a high school parking lot. The neutral switch had been bypassed and he started it in gear. It was a close call that could have very easily been a tragedy. Fortunately, this was back before kids had their face in their cell phones and were paying more attention.

The one that should be on your car will look something like this:

The large screw terminal goes to the battery, smaller screw terminal to the starter. The terminal that's at 45 degrees goes to the ignition switch and the remaining terminal goes to the neutral switch.

 

[Triple Pickle]

If your car is made out of a hodgepodge of stuff and you’ve done your own wiring, that’s fine. Thing is, you can’t consult the c-body experts or the FSM if you have questions or need trouble-shooting help. You have a one of kind build that nobody else has any idea how it’s put together or what is going on.

 

[rags]

Well, that's a Ford starter relay.

noticed how it's hooked up? more of a junction block as it is.

 

[Big_John]

noticed how it's hooked up? more of a junction block as it is.View attachment 608213

Geez... Yea, you are correct!

Not being all that familiar with the Ford solenoids, I didn't pick up on that.

So... That means that isn't doing anything. The ignition switch is doing all the work... And may be fried.