4 barrel CFM
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
A 600 cfm is all you need (or can use) on your tired 383 with it's mild cam.
Clover
Well-Known Member
What intake are you using? 600 cfm is fine. I would argue that an edelbrock carb will perform better and be more reliable than a 600 Holley.
moper
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You'll get different recommendations based on the individual's comfort level and experience. If it was me, I'd recommend a 600cfm Edelbrock, or the 650 Edelbrock Thunder AVS. They are well matched to a milder street application, and in most cases won't need much for tuning to get it dialed in. A couple notes - any carb will need the appropriate throttle lever extension to work with your kickdown. Holleys may require either an adaptor or spacer to run on a factory type manifold. No carb will be perfect for your car right out of the box. So expect to need to tune them, and I'd buy the strip kit for the Edelbrock, or be ready to buy the jets and power valve for any Holley type choice.
For MANY peoplethe Edelbrocks can be the best choice, by observation. The current Edelbrock Performer intake will be good, too. I believe it's an updated version of the DP4B Edelbrock (383 application) that had a Chrysler part number on it so it was legal in the NHRA drag race stock classes, from about 1968, when it became a part of the Chrysler Direct-Connection parts program.
The Holley Avenger line of 4160 4bbls are probably good carbs. I've used a few Holley OEM replacement 4160 and 4175 carbs, BUT they were OEM replacements with specific metering items in them for the particular application. None of the durability issues of the 1970-era Holleys, by observation. BUT their current gaskets have an adhesive on them that "sticks" when exposed to fuel, apparently, as I had to pry the float bowls OFF the carb. Never did get the metering blocks off!
With our modern fuels, there is ONE issue to the Holley 4150/4160 and spreadbore 4165/4175 carbs! The accel pump is located on the bottom of the primary (front) float bowl. They might have upgraded the accel pump diaphragm to better ethanol-resistant material, BUT should that diaphragm ever seep or leak, it'll drain the float bowl onto the top of the intake manifold! Not good! Before we got current fuels, they'd last for years with no issues. At least, when they did seep, it'd put a fuel pattern on the top of the intake runner so it was visible and smelled of raw gas.
The alternative which Holley sells is the Street Demon 650 carb. Note, "street" demon, not one of the other Demon carbs. except that will fit a square-bore 4bbl intake. Summit still has some good pricing on them, too! Plus the other Edelbrock carbs, too.
You might need a 4bbl throttle cable to replace the existing 2bbl item. There might be an extension for the trans kick-down rod that would be needed, too. It's in the Edelbrock catalog just for Chrysler applications.
All of the Edelbrock and Street Demon carbs need to have an electric choke on them. One wire from power when the key is "on", usually. There should be an instruction sheet in the carb box.
Also, GET an OEM "thick" carb insulator base gasket. MUCH better than the cardboard gaskets which usually come with the carbs, by observation.
Although there will be a bag of nuts, bolts, carb studs, and other assorted goodies with the carb, I like to get the black hardened carb studs. Reason is that the ones which come with the carbs are "soft" and I broke one. Ez-outs didn't work for me. Broke them, too! The harder stud will strip the threads in the manifold before THEY snap-off, so a little anti-seize on them and just snugged-in works fine. You might need some longer ones with the thicker base gasket, too.
You'll also need a new intake manifold-to-cylinder head "breast plate/valley pan" gasket, too.
Oh, and a different air cleaner to match the carb mounting "hole" diameter. Several options, there, too.
Can't forget the metal fuel line from the gas filter up to the carb! To get things going, you can carefully run some normal fuel hose. Then look in the repro vendors for a metal line to hopefully match the fuel inlet location on the carb you use.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
The Holley Avenger line of 4160 4bbls are probably good carbs. I've used a few Holley OEM replacement 4160 and 4175 carbs, BUT they were OEM replacements with specific metering items in them for the particular application. None of the durability issues of the 1970-era Holleys, by observation. BUT their current gaskets have an adhesive on them that "sticks" when exposed to fuel, apparently, as I had to pry the float bowls OFF the carb. Never did get the metering blocks off!
With our modern fuels, there is ONE issue to the Holley 4150/4160 and spreadbore 4165/4175 carbs! The accel pump is located on the bottom of the primary (front) float bowl. They might have upgraded the accel pump diaphragm to better ethanol-resistant material, BUT should that diaphragm ever seep or leak, it'll drain the float bowl onto the top of the intake manifold! Not good! Before we got current fuels, they'd last for years with no issues. At least, when they did seep, it'd put a fuel pattern on the top of the intake runner so it was visible and smelled of raw gas.
The alternative which Holley sells is the Street Demon 650 carb. Note, "street" demon, not one of the other Demon carbs. except that will fit a square-bore 4bbl intake. Summit still has some good pricing on them, too! Plus the other Edelbrock carbs, too.
You might need a 4bbl throttle cable to replace the existing 2bbl item. There might be an extension for the trans kick-down rod that would be needed, too. It's in the Edelbrock catalog just for Chrysler applications.
All of the Edelbrock and Street Demon carbs need to have an electric choke on them. One wire from power when the key is "on", usually. There should be an instruction sheet in the carb box.
Also, GET an OEM "thick" carb insulator base gasket. MUCH better than the cardboard gaskets which usually come with the carbs, by observation.
Although there will be a bag of nuts, bolts, carb studs, and other assorted goodies with the carb, I like to get the black hardened carb studs. Reason is that the ones which come with the carbs are "soft" and I broke one. Ez-outs didn't work for me. Broke them, too! The harder stud will strip the threads in the manifold before THEY snap-off, so a little anti-seize on them and just snugged-in works fine. You might need some longer ones with the thicker base gasket, too.
You'll also need a new intake manifold-to-cylinder head "breast plate/valley pan" gasket, too.
Oh, and a different air cleaner to match the carb mounting "hole" diameter. Several options, there, too.
Can't forget the metal fuel line from the gas filter up to the carb! To get things going, you can carefully run some normal fuel hose. Then look in the repro vendors for a metal line to hopefully match the fuel inlet location on the carb you use.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
moper
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Any new carb will have the parts that are ethanol friendly. If you're buying used rebuild it with the modern rebuild kits (the NOS 40yr old Holley kits are junk at this point). I run the Holley Avenger line on the stroker small blocks I build. It is a great carb - when used properly. In this case I think the Carter-based carbs will provide a better idle quality and vacuum, and smoother and more economical performance over any Holley based carb.
Knebel
Senior Member
Quick Fuel HR-600 HR-Series Carburetor 600CFM
Demon 1901 625 CFM Street Demon Carburetor
stay away from the edelbrocks unless you want the car stalling in fast turns and the fuel boiling in the bowls when shut off. Maybe look at a street demon too.
Demon 1901 625 CFM Street Demon Carburetor
stay away from the edelbrocks unless you want the car stalling in fast turns and the fuel boiling in the bowls when shut off. Maybe look at a street demon too.
moper
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Never had any of those issues on a properly tuned and set up Edelbrock.
I have driven hundreds of thousands of miles on a Eddie 1406 carb on an Eddie performer manifold on stock engines without even making a single adjustment. Any question call the Eddie tech line. They will steer you down the right road. You will need the Eddie Chrysler linkage adapter for the carb and your stock linkage will bolt right up to the Eddie carb including cruise control if you have it.
BillGrissom
Active Member
My understanding is that the Edlebrock is simplest and easiest (descended from Carter), but the Holley is more efficient. One reason is that Holley (usually) has a vacuum secondary which opens only as needed based on air flow. With mechanical secondaries, like the Edelbrock, be sure not to "floor it" since that will open them early and bog the engine (fuel dribbles in instead of spraying). Even better are the spread-bore Thermo-quad (Mopars) or Quadrajet (GM) since you run on the small primaries normally for better efficiency, then open giant secondaries as needed. I think you can also "floor it" with those since they open based on air flow (via flapper plate), but they are finicky to tune.
I have run a Holley Pro-jection 2D on my 1965 383 since 1997 (orig 2-bbl, now Edlebrock intake). I like the idea of electronic fuel controls, but that one has always been quirky. I will change to the much better Commander 950. There are also recent TBI's that are <$1000 and simpler to install since all-in-one. For any, you must plumb an EFI pump and return to the gas-tank, though there are now under-hood packaged kits for that which are even return-less (recall). By the way, if you need a new fuel tank, I recently installed a CR9 (for B-bodies like Road Runner), as have others, and it fit fine and only cost ~$100.
I have run a Holley Pro-jection 2D on my 1965 383 since 1997 (orig 2-bbl, now Edlebrock intake). I like the idea of electronic fuel controls, but that one has always been quirky. I will change to the much better Commander 950. There are also recent TBI's that are <$1000 and simpler to install since all-in-one. For any, you must plumb an EFI pump and return to the gas-tank, though there are now under-hood packaged kits for that which are even return-less (recall). By the way, if you need a new fuel tank, I recently installed a CR9 (for B-bodies like Road Runner), as have others, and it fit fine and only cost ~$100.
boyd36
New Member
My 2 cents . I agree with using the carter or newer eddy 600 , I have used these on many engines out of the box and always have had very good luck . Set fuel mixture and idle and done . Other carbs would work great to as others have said , just don’t go bigger than 600 cfm and stay with vac secondary. I would say is most important.
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