413 w/performer carb won't idle under 900

[mopar440]

On my new yorker wagon, new performer, electric choke. It idled at 1200 when installed. I began fine tuning. Brought timing to 10 btdc , and got her down to 8-900. My idle stop screw is backed all the way out. There's a little click when I try to pull it back to the stop, drops probably 50-70 rpm, but still high. It seems to be running off the intermediate slots, as adjust screws are almost shut

What am I missing here? Don't think I have any vacuum leaks, manifold is original and booster holds vac, but looking at that is my next step

 

[Davea Lux]

You need to get rid of the baling wire holding the throttle cable to the carb linkage. Edelbrock makes a stud adapter that is designed for Mopar applications. I suspect that you throttle cable may be binding with the current setup. Start there.

Dave

 

[mopar440]

You need to get rid of the baling wire holding the throttle cable to the carb linkage. Edelbrock makes a stud adapter that is designed for Mopar applications. I suspect that you throttle cable may be binding with the current setup. Start there.

Dave

Yeah, it's temp I thought of that, but there is slack still in the cable,

 

[67Monaco]

Take the throttle cable off and see what it does. That and your cable for the transmission kickdown.

 

[mopar440]

Looks like the problem is the lokar springs are interfereing with the fast idle. They are routed the way lokar wants them. I'm gonna see what i can do

 

[Welder guy]

Buy the edelbrock Chrysler Throttle lever adaptor and install it , It works much better than tie wire.

 

[Welder guy]

Then install the adapter like this .

 

[Welder guy]

 

[mopar440]

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I used the lokar kickdown, which calls for lokar throttle adaptor. The wire is temporary. It looks like the lokar springs are causing the problem

It was a cable operated car, that someone put a lever operated trans in

 

[mopar440]

I moved springs, now returns to full idle, got her to purr after 30+ years . Sometimes the simplest things cause a problem

 

[mopar440]

Just for discussion: the edlebrock tech line said my base timing of 10 btdc ( factory) was too little on today's gas, he recommended 14-16. I didn't mention I only burn non oxy

Anyone heard this? First I have

 

[Davea Lux]

Just for discussion: the edlebrock tech line said my base timing of 10 btdc ( factory) was too little on today's gas, he recommended 14-16. I didn't mention I only burn non oxy

Anyone heard this? First I have

That is one of those things that you just have to play with to get right. As a general rule, moonshine blends will take more advance to get the same performance, but there are a lot of variables, like condition of the engine, gear ratios, octane ratings, altitude and how hard the vehicle is driven. Go ahead and start the timing at 14 degrees, if you engine pings excessively, back it off until the pinging is acceptable. If it does not ping at 14 degrees, give it another couple of degrees to 16 and see how it runs. There is no size fits all here. The clear gas should perform well at factory settings, but you will have to try it and see.

Dave

 

[James Romano]

I just timed my 383, and I went with roughly 20 deg of advance with no vacuum connected. She seems to like it. Or you can just go Old Skool and listen to the motor. When she pings under load, too much. No acceleration, or lagging... too little.

 

[mopar440]

I just timed my 383, and I went with roughly 20 deg of advance with no vacuum connected. She seems to like it. Or you can just go Old Skool and listen to the motor. When she pings under load, too much. No acceleration, or lagging... too little.

What's your total advance then? Did you check that?

 

[James Romano]

I set it with the light. +20 on the dial. So that would be total. I started at zero and moved up.

I'm still not 100% on my setup though. I'm getting some loping and stalling. I think my mixture might be off a little.

 

[mopar440]

I set it with the light. +20 on the dial. So that would be total. I started at zero and moved up.

I'm still not 100% on my setup though. I'm getting some loping and stalling. I think my mixture might be off a little.

I guess I'm not understanding..20 is your INITIAL right? After your mechanical comes in at 2-2800, what's the total? I'm usually 34-36 total, you'd be in the high 40s I'd guess with 20 initial

 

[James Romano]

I don't know the answer to that. I timed it with my light set to zero. Ran good. Then I turned up my dial to +20 and ran a little better. That's where I locked it down. Not sure what that means in terms of what you're asking.

 

[Polara_500]

That's base, or initial and should be set at idle with vacuum adv disconnected. As the engine RPM increases, the weights on the distributor plate cause it to advance further (mechanically) as does the vacuum pot (if so equipped) that handles mid range changes to keep advance at an optimum. These are all additive and will typically put you up near 50 total with 20 initial. Others can explain it in more detail and/or better but that's the basics.

 

[James Romano]

whoa... I'd better dial it back a little then.

 

[mopar440]

whoa... I'd better dial it back a little then.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure your way high. Unless you install timing tape, you need a dial timing light to check it