Carter bds 2 barrel issues

[E&C]

Howdy everyone.
So after Covid the difficulties still remain, My 69 fury 3 having carb issues. I have symptom that I can set the manual choke, it high idles to the point the set screw actually doesn't contact the barrel step. When kicking down it shuts right off when droped to idle. The older carb did it now this new reman, doing then same thing. Installed clear fuel filter to watch flow, seems good. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Years after the Pandemic, I want to drive my car again.

 

[CBODY67]

What rpm is the hot base idle speed set to? Do you know how to rebuild the carburetor?

 

[Davea Lux]

Howdy everyone.
So after Covid the difficulties still remain, My 69 fury 3 having carb issues. I have symptom that I can set the manual choke, it high idles to the point the set screw actually doesn't contact the barrel step. When kicking down it shuts right off when droped to idle. The older carb did it now this new reman, doing then same thing. Installed clear fuel filter to watch flow, seems good. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Years after the Pandemic, I want to drive my car again.

Sounds like the base idle is set to low, start by letting the car warm up and set the base idle on the driver side of the car to about 650RPMS. The choke cam is used to raise the idle when the engine is cold. The screw should contact the cam step when the choke is applied so the engine does not die. Have you adjusted the idle mixture screws? Rebuilt carbs will usually need to have this done to match the carb to the engine.

Dave

 

[Gerald Morris]

Sounds like the base idle is set to low, start by letting the car warm up and set the base idle on the driver side of the car to about 650RPMS. The choke cam is used to raise the idle when the engine is cold. The screw should contact the cam step when the choke is applied so the engine does not die. Have you adjusted the idle mixture screws? Rebuilt carbs will usually need to have this done to match the carb to the engine.

Dave

Good, sound advice, and I actually got a Carter BBD to work for a short time on Gertrude before replacing the heads, and installing the 4bbl intake and Edelbrock Performer 1405. I've still got 2 BBDs in fairly new )reman) condition, but the amount of twiddling they took and the many accounts I've read and heard about them inclines me to dedicate these as paperweights henceforth. If I must go to 2 barrel space again, I'll stick with the Stromberg WWC or a Holley.

 

[tbm3fan]

Howdy everyone.
So after Covid the difficulties still remain, My 69 fury 3 having carb issues. I have symptom that I can set the manual choke, it high idles to the point the set screw actually doesn't contact the barrel step. When kicking down it shuts right off when droped to idle. The older carb did it now this new reman, doing then same thing. Installed clear fuel filter to watch flow, seems good. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Years after the Pandemic, I want to drive my car again.

I tried three different 2bbl Carter's in my Polara and gave up. They all ran ragged in one manner or another. Idle all over the place all by themselves. Gave up and put a Motorcraft 2150 on and have been happy ever since and that was almost 8 years ago.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I tried three different 2bbl Carter's in my Polara and gave up. They all ran ragged in one manner or another. Idle all over the place all by themselves. Gave up and put a Motorcraft 2150 on and have been happy ever since and that was almost 8 years ago.

AH! I was wondering if the Motorcraft 2150 would play nice w a 383! Thanks big BIG! Yes, both of my Carter BBDs I bought were WAY more trouble than they were worth.....

 

[Just Carbs]

The Motorcraft 2150 has worked well on everything I've put it on.
I'm not having problems with my Carters before 1973 either.

 

[CBODY67]

I did some looking around and discovered there are TWO sizes of MC2150s, similar to the two sizes of BBDs. The larger one, for 351s and 400Ms, is rated at 325cfm. The 2150 replaced the earlier Autolite 2100 2bbl. PLUS . . . annular discharge venturis on both.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[tbm3fan]

AH! I was wondering if the Motorcraft 2150 would play nice w a 383! Thanks big BIG! Yes, both of my Carter BBDs I bought were WAY more trouble than they were worth.....

The Carter sure does look fine sitting on my counter but runs like crap.

The Motorcraft 2150 looks fine besides working great. With the right amount of gas at start and the car starts in an instant. I love the way it does that.

 

[CBODY67]

Nice looking 2150. That sure is a trick linkage running the bowl vent valve!

What jetting/calibration changes were necessary? Which Ford application seems to work best?

Take care,
CBODY67

 

[tbm3fan]

The jetting was left at the standard jetting of #56. Sparks plugs look great. Timing I believe is at 10 degrees as I am a believer in adding more timing than specs short of spark knock.

 

[Blackrifle]

Mmm, will one of those motorcrafts replace the crappy Stromberg WW on my 383 in my 66 newport?

 

[CBODY67]

Mmm, will one of those motorcrafts replace the crappy Stromberg WW on my 383 in my 66 newport?

Might need an adapter, which might compromise air cleaner to hood clearance.

What issues with your WWC3? What IS a direct-bolt-on is the Holley 2210 from 1970 or 1971. Just need some rubber line for the fuel line hookup, as I recall. I did that on our '66 Newport, back in 1973.

CBODY67

 

[Blackrifle]

This car had been sitting for almost 9 years. Rebuilt the carb with a Rockauto kit but its not right. Very tough to start if it sits more than 2 days.
So that Holley 2210 is only from those years? Where might I find one of those Carbs?

 

[CBODY67]

The Holley 2210 started in 1970 and was upgraded to the 2245 for later EGR applications. The 2210 is usually available as a reman at Rock Auto.

CBODY67

 

[Just Carbs]

The cheap copy carbs I've been getting from eBay and Amazon have been working fine. They aren't ready to go out of the box carbs, they are preassembled carb kits. They all have machining trash inside and the linkages have to be corrected as needed. But the machining and parts are ok, and they run good.

Ford 2100/2150-$70.

Little Carter BBD two barrel for small block-$70.

Edelbrock 600 four-barrel copy-$180.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Sometimes the wandering idle is due to the mechanical advance and not always the carburetor. I tried to set mine around the 600 rpm range. I would think I just had it set and it would either jump up to 800 rpm or drop down to around 500 RPM. It turned out that my mechanical advance springs in my distributor were weak and throwing out the flyweights advancing my timing prematurely. This was happening right around the 600 RPM idle range. One day it would idle high, the next day it would drop way down. At one time It was around 450 RPM (Pretty slow). I contacted Halifax Hops, and he sent me some new springs. I used the timing light and the service manual to set the correct mechanical timing curves at the specified RPM's. With out a distributor machine It was numerous rounds of install, see when the advance started, remove the distributor, tweak the springs and try again. (Key is to mark your distributor alignment with a sharpie and remember which way the rotor is pointing each time you remove.
This may or may not be your issue, but you can quickly tell if you watch your timing as the idle hunts up and down. You should not see any mechanical advance (or timing change) up to 950 RPM ( sorry these are "68 specs for a 383 2bbl) at aroun 950 RPM the advance should be between 0 and 3.8 Degrees. If you are seeing timing changes prior to 950 rpm ( Especially down around normal idle speed) then you need to fix your mechanical advance. ( These test should be done with your vacuum advance disconnected and vacuum line plugged or pinched off.

The next step up in mechanical advance should be around 1500 RPM where you should see around 7-9 degrees mechanical advance. and goes up from there maxing out at 14.5 - 16.5 degrees at 4500 rpm.

The specs should be in your '69 service manual section 8-71 ish Ignition system - Specifications. Remember when you are reading these the distributor speed is 1/2 your engine RPM so distributor speed X2 = engine RPM on a 4 stroke engine.