kenfyoozed
Member
Got my parts in today and I hope to get them tossed on the 300 tomorrow. As I have never replaced a distributor I have tried to read up on what to do. Does anyone have a good resource on how to do this or any tips or tricks? I
440 Distributor install
- Thread starter kenfyoozed
- Start date
The Goose
Senior Member
Super easy bud.
Pop the cap
Clock your distributor
Take a pic for wiring etc
Mark where vacuum advance is on engine
Mark where rotor is pointing
Think face of a clock.
Drop yours in fire it up.
Should be close enough to start and then you fine tune w a timing light.
If it pops thru carb and don’t start then
Loosen dist just enough to rotate the rotor 180° and try restart procedure.
It’s that simple if your dist is pretty much the same as before.
With a mopar you car only be spot on or 180° out. Pretty easy.
Good luck thanks ed
traintech55
Senior Member
Are you just replacing the distributor, or installing an electronic one? If you are converting to electronic, who did you purchase it from?
Cazman
Active Member
The main thing to remember is that a distributor can be put in 180 degrees off. Here is what I do:
1. Remove #1 spark plug (or all plugs if you need make it easier to turn the crank)
2. Put your finger in #1 hole and have some one turn the crank (with socket on crank bolt or tapping the starter)
3. When you finger gets blown out, that is compression on #1
4. Look at the timing marks, you should be around zero degrees (move the crank to that if you can)
5. I "clock" the distributor gear, which means that you have to pull it up a bit and align the gear slot in the direction you want. I look at the bottom of the distributor shaft slot and and then the distributor rotor. I point the rotor to #1 cylinder and the vacuum advance away from the engine (for room to move). Now look at that distributor slot position and turn the gear to match. Drop the gear back down to mesh with cam gear.
6. Drop the distributor in and engage the two slots.
7. Look at where the rotor is facing and mark with a marker on the outside of the distributor, this is #1 cylinder position
8. Put your cap on and transfer your mark up to the cap. This is #1 plug wire.
9. From there go counter-clockwise in the correct firing order to connect remaining plug wires.
This will be very close for starting (I advance the distributor a bit before firing too).
1. Remove #1 spark plug (or all plugs if you need make it easier to turn the crank)
2. Put your finger in #1 hole and have some one turn the crank (with socket on crank bolt or tapping the starter)
3. When you finger gets blown out, that is compression on #1
4. Look at the timing marks, you should be around zero degrees (move the crank to that if you can)
5. I "clock" the distributor gear, which means that you have to pull it up a bit and align the gear slot in the direction you want. I look at the bottom of the distributor shaft slot and and then the distributor rotor. I point the rotor to #1 cylinder and the vacuum advance away from the engine (for room to move). Now look at that distributor slot position and turn the gear to match. Drop the gear back down to mesh with cam gear.
6. Drop the distributor in and engage the two slots.
7. Look at where the rotor is facing and mark with a marker on the outside of the distributor, this is #1 cylinder position
8. Put your cap on and transfer your mark up to the cap. This is #1 plug wire.
9. From there go counter-clockwise in the correct firing order to connect remaining plug wires.
This will be very close for starting (I advance the distributor a bit before firing too).
This is a straight forward operation. Line up your timing mark on the harmonic balancer to TDC. Remove the distributor cap and verify that the rotor is pointing to the wire for cylinder #1. Once this is accomplished, remove the old distributor and install the new one in the same position. That should get you close enough to start the engine and re-time it. As noted, mopar distributors can easily be installed 180 degrees out of time because the crankshaft rotates two turns for each camshaft rotation. That is the reason for being sure the rotor points at the #1 plug wire on the cap. If you are installing an electronic distributor, be sure to follow the instructions that came with the unit. Any electronic conversion on a '69 or older vehicle will require updating to an electronic voltage regulator. If your electronic unit comes with a replacement ballast resistor, be sure to use that unit. Some electronic units run at 12v, some do not so follow the instructions.
Dave
kenfyoozed
Member
replacing, the orange box for a blue hirev7500, distributor and cables. Got it off ebay from rehrenberg
Orange box to blue box is a drop in conversion. If you were having trouble with the orange box, many of the orange box units failed because of poor workmanship. Be sure you car has an electronic regulator, #1 cause of dead electronic ignition. Be sure the wiring to the unit is in good shape and avoid splicing the wiring. Be sure that the brain box has a good ground. A bad ground compromises the electronics and erratic performance or unit failure will result.
Dave
Dave
The Goose
Senior Member
My only other advice I can give you is replace one part at a time. If I’m replacing a distributor I’ll replace the unit get it running. Then replace the cap plug wires etc etc. this will eliminate a bunch of troubleshooting if you wind up w one bad apple in the pile of parts.
kenfyoozed
Member
The car came with the orange box, so how would I know if the regulator is electronic? Where is this located...... also my electronic copy of my FSM no longer allows me to search for words, as it is a pdf..... where in the manual does it show the firing order and rotation of the distributor. I have been looking for the diagram for 10mins now and can not find it....I know i saw it somewhere...
What year car is this? '70 and later have electronic regulators and they were mounted on the firewall. The electronic regulators are usually silver or gold colored with a plug in the center of the unit. The mechanical units were also mounted on the firewall in most cases and they are a black box with screwed on wire terminals. There is an aftermarket electronic unit that looks on the exterior just like the mechanical one that is sold to maintain the original appearance. If you have a black box type regulator, look at the back side of it, if it has resistance tubes on the underside, it is a mechanical unit, if not it is electronic. You will need to unbolt the regulator to look at the underside of it.
The firing order for the engine is cast into the intake manifold just forward of the carb. Might have to remove some grease to see it.
Dave
kenfyoozed
Member
1967 Chrysler 300
kenfyoozed
Member
is there a voltage regulator that i could pick up? Would a local parts store have something like this?
kenfyoozed
Member
found these two styles at local stores. Am I correct in assuming the first would be electronic and the second would be the older style?
I found mine on the firewall on the drivers side, and right beside it i found a second ballast resistor. Is this second ballast resistor the same as the ballast resistor that works with the ignition system? I have a ballast resistor that mounts to the fire wall right beside the ECU, but just found this seconding .
I found mine on the firewall on the drivers side, and right beside it i found a second ballast resistor. Is this second ballast resistor the same as the ballast resistor that works with the ignition system? I have a ballast resistor that mounts to the fire wall right beside the ECU, but just found this seconding .
kenfyoozed
Member
Looks like from my research that the vr706 from duralast/Autozone would work for the voltage regulator. Seems like its a plug and play....unless someone has a better option.
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