Installed the 4bbl on my 383 finally. Have a Question

[Blackrifle]

Finally got around to ripping out the old Stromberg and cast-iron intake and installed an Edelbrock Torker 383 I had laying around and the Summit branded Holley 750 that Woodruff re did for me back in the Fall.
She starts right up and runs great.
I need to figure out the throttle linkage. Does anyone have a picture they can post of how you did it on a Holley carb.
Thanks in advance
I tried searching but didn't find any threads with pics.

 

[CBODY67]

There is a bracket that Edelbrock and Holley have to adapt the generic Chevy-style throttle to use the Chrysoer-specific throttle stud and cable hook-up. Other than the bracket, it looks like a factory piece when done. Summit has it and Jegs probably does too.

There are some threads in here which have pictures. Might look for "Holley 4bbl linkage", or similar.

When I put the T-383 intake on my '67 Newport 383 4bbl, I had to use the thick base gasket/insulator to get decent WOT power. Another factory-style piece that Holley and Edelbrock have for square-bore carburetors.

Enjoy!
CBODY667

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

You will also need to ensure that the kickdown linkage is installed and properly adjusted for the transmission from the new carb, otherwise serious transmission damage will result shortly.

 

[CBODY67]

You will also need to ensure that the kickdown linkage is installed and properly adjusted for the transmission from the new carb, otherwise serious transmission damage will result shortly.

PLUS, it will not shift at the correct times.

 

[Toolmanmike]

You will also need to ensure that the kickdown linkage is installed and properly adjusted for the transmission from the new carb, otherwise serious transmission damage will result shortly.

Right you are. A new member from FABO switched to a 4 barrel and I pointed out his misadjusted kickdown. He mentioned the car came that way and 2-3 shift was slipping. Damage is done. I suggested fixing the kickdown and servicing the transmission and a band adjustment while he had the pan off. Fingers crossed!

 

[cuda hunter]

You might be able to get the carb adaptor from Oreilly's. They had it last time I needed it. Most box stores with any carb parts will usually have it in stock.

 

[65sporty]

You should find what you need here
Brackets and Linkage

 

[lemondana]

Holley is 20-7 and Edelbrock is 1481.

 

[ALRUI]

Right you are. A new member from FABO switched to a 4 barrel and I pointed out his misadjusted kickdown. He mentioned the car came that way and 2-3 shift was slipping. Damage is done. I suggested fixing the kickdown and servicing the transmission and a band adjustment while he had the pan off. Fingers crossed!

What is the proper way to adjust it?

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

There is a prrocedure outlined in the factory service manual. If you don't have one, you can download it for free from Service Manuals – MyMopar

 

[ALRUI]

There is a prrocedure outlined in the factory service manual. If you don't have one, you can download it for free from Service Manuals – MyMopar

Gotcha & thanks! I thought maybe it was different with the aftermarket carb, I have the printed (& electronic) manual

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

It will possibly need some futzing - but there are many here who can advise you on getting that kickdown linkage properly adjusted with an aftermarket carb and intake - I'm not one of those. All I know is that it is IMPERATIVE that you do so, or you'll cook your trans.

 

[ALRUI]

It will possibly need some futzing - but there are many here who can advise you on getting that kickdown linkage properly adjusted with an aftermarket carb and intake - I'm not one of those. All I know is that it is IMPERATIVE that you do so, or you'll cook your trans.

Yeah I remember that it's critical. Thanks again.

 

[cuda hunter]

As I recall, your first shift should be at 35 and second shift at 50 mph.

 

[CBODY67]

As I recall, your first shift should be at 35 and second shift at 50 mph.

On our '66 Newport 383 2bbl w/2.76 and H78-14 tires, it was about 37mph and then 75+mph at WOT. At the particular rpms, it was set too low. It would run 90mph in 2nd gear, for example. Low gear would go to about 47mph or so at WOT. So . . . figures can vary as to model, engine, axle ratio, and tire size.

To me, a little better gauge would be to have the 1-2 shift happen such that the rpm after the gear change is just over 1000rpm, so the engine remains responsive to throttle inputs. Same with the 2-3 automatic upshift. Otherwise, any later acceleration will be "on the converter" rather than "on the gears". The latter is preferred, from my experiences of how the cars feel. These things are adjusted with about two more threads-worth of pre-load on the kickdown linkage. What happens at WOT is the result of the internal governor in the particular transmission, with the actual road speed they happen at determined by the factors I mentioned above.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Your shift speeds don't seem out of line for a long-legged gear set like that - however, I strongly suggest to all going throug this that for trans longevity, one starts with the factory specified kickdown adjustments for your engine and gear set, then go from their to taylor to your preference.

 

[Toolmanmike]

What is the proper way to adjust it?

I always start with the back of the slot just touching the pin on the carb like in this photo. THat should get you close. I always use the adapter that positions it correctly. (gold colored one in the photo) Switching from a 2 barrel to a 4 barrel or switching brands of carbs makes a difference where the pin is located. For some applications, there is a adapter to extend the threaded rod if needed, as pictured (if you have that) Have your kid or wife depress the throttle to the floor, make sure the carb secondaries are all the way open, and crawl underneath and make sure the kickdown lever is in the full open position. Adjust the linkage as necessary.

 

[ALRUI]

I always start with the back of the slot just touching the pin on the carb like in this photo. THat should get you close. I always use the adapter that positions it correctly. (gold colored one in the photo) Switching from a 2 barrel to a 4 barrel or switching brands of carbs makes a difference where the pin is located. For some applications, there is a adapter to extend the threaded rod if needed, as pictured (if you have that) Have your kid or wife depress the throttle to the floor, make sure the carb secondaries are all the way open, and crawl underneath and make sure the kickdown lever is in the full open position. Adjust the linkage as necessary.

Thanks for all the great input guys! (looks like you have a few toys there!).

 

[dogface]

I’d get a factory Carter or Holly carb, everything fits correctly and most are around $100 or less

 

[ALRUI]

I’d get a factory Carter or Holly carb, everything fits correctly and most are around $100 or less

That's what I have, a 67 Carter 4bbl. Still deciding if I want a factory intake (if I can find one locally) or an Edelbrock dual plane.