'65 New Yorker aftermarket radiator?

[Raxxter]

Hey all,

I just joined the forum, and this is my first post, so I apologize if this has been addressed elsewhere and I missed it.
I've asked these questions on another board, but so far, not one relply.....

I just picked up a ’65 New Yorker with AC and the 413.

There’s going to be a lot to restore it, but I’m trying to make it a daily driver during the process. One of the first things I need to do is address the leaking radiator.

My question is, after looking on the web, it seems direct-fit replacements are (fairly) common for the ’66-’70 New Yorkers, but not the ‘65s. That, and the ones I can find for the ‘65s are about twice the cost.

So, what’s the difference between a ’66 for a car with AC, and one for a ’65 with AC?
Is it just a matter of the mounting points lining up?
Is there another Chrysler (300, etc.) model that has the same radiator?

Advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Raxx

 

[Davea Lux]

Hey all,

I just joined the forum, and this is my first post, so I apologize if this has been addressed elsewhere and I missed it.
I've asked these questions on another board, but so far, not one relply.....

I just picked up a ’65 New Yorker with AC and the 413.

There’s going to be a lot to restore it, but I’m trying to make it a daily driver during the process. One of the first things I need to do is address the leaking radiator.

My question is, after looking on the web, it seems direct-fit replacements are (fairly) common for the ’66-’70 New Yorkers, but not the ‘65s. That, and the ones I can find for the ‘65s are about twice the cost.

So, what’s the difference between a ’66 for a car with AC, and one for a ’65 with AC?
Is it just a matter of the mounting points lining up?
Is there another Chrysler (300, etc.) model that has the same radiator?

Advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Raxx

The bolt mount points are the same. The upper hose routing is different. You will have to find a 66 upper radiator hose and a 66 thermostat housing. Other than that it should probably work. But be sure to look at photo of the replacement radiator to confirm this. I usually take my dead radiator down to a good radiator shop and have them re-core it, that way I know the darn thing will be right.

Dave

 

[traintech55]

The bolt mount points are the same. The upper hose routing is different. You will have to find a 66 upper radiator hose and a 66 thermostat housing. Other than that it should probably work. But be sure to look at photo of the replacement radiator to confirm this. I usually take my dead radiator down to a good radiator shop and have them re-core it, that way I know the darn thing will be right.

Dave

I agree. A good radiator shop will test and repair everything, warranty it, and you know it will fit.

 

[Raxxter]

Thanks for the information and suggestions!
After searching this site, I did find some information about aftermarket radiator suppliers I hadn't come across before; but, I think I'll pull the radiator and take it to a locally well-reviewed shop for repair. If I run into trouble later on (or if the price quote exceeds the cost of an aftermarket one by too much), I'll see about replacing it with a different one.
I like the idea of a direct fit replacement....

 

[traintech55]

Thanks for the information and suggestions!
After searching this site, I did find some information about aftermarket radiator suppliers I hadn't come across before; but, I think I'll pull the radiator and take it to a locally well-reviewed shop for repair. If I run into trouble later on (or if the price quote exceeds the cost of an aftermarket one by too much), I'll see about replacing it with a different one.
I like the idea of a direct fit replacement....

If you do just have it repaired, have the shop do a flow test on it. Since Chrysler radiators are a top to bottom flow(not side to side like G.M. and Ford), they can clog at the bottom and this will give you overheating problems at highway speeds.

 

[Raxxter]

If you do just have it repaired, have the shop do a flow test on it. Since Chrysler radiators are a top to bottom flow( not side to side like G.M. and Ford), they can clog at the bottom and this will give you overheating problems at highway speeds.

Thanks for the advice, again!
I'll pull the radiator in the next day or two and take it to a local shop I've contacted, here in the Springs. If the leak is repairable, I'll have them fix it, clean it, etc. A ballpark quote on a recore is at least $400 for the core, as apparently it's not a 'stocked' part and would have to be custom made. For that much, I'll just put in an aftermarket one (looking into one from a company mentioned here in the forums I found after running a search).

 

[GJS]

Thanks for the advice, again!
I'll pull the radiator in the next day or two and take it to a local shop I've contacted, here in the Springs. If the leak is repairable, I'll have them fix it, clean it, etc. A ballpark quote on a recore is at least $400 for the core, as apparently it's not a 'stocked' part and would have to be custom made. For that much, I'll just put in an aftermarket one (looking into one from a company mentioned here in the forums I found after running a search).

If you can squeeze by with a few small repairs and a cleaning, you outta be below the $100 dollar mark or close. I was happy to find my 67 did not need a re core at around 500 bucks!

Good luck, man!

 

[Raxxter]

The ballpark quote I got was "if it's a simple leak fix...about $55. For a simple leak fix, back flush, clean, then $95-$115...out the door". The quotes were based off my call saying, "hey, just picked up a '65 New Yorker, and the radiator's leaking. I know nothing about the history, maintenance, or even exactly where it's leaking from, just that it appears to be from somewhere near the top....what's a rough estimate if I pull it and bring it in?"

 

[saforwardlook]

The ballpark quote I got was "if it's a simple leak fix...about $55. For a simple leak fix, back flush, clean, then $95-$115...out the door". The quotes were based off my call saying, "hey, just picked up a '65 New Yorker, and the radiator's leaking. I know nothing about the history, maintenance, or even exactly where it's leaking from, just that it appears to be from somewhere near the top....what's a rough estimate if I pull it and bring it in?"

Aftermarket new radiators are no good in my opinion. They have poor fin density which equals poor cooling in traffic. Go with an aftermarket recore of your original radiator and specify high fin density. It will set you back some $500 but it will be money well spent.

 

[Raxxter]

Uggh....the radiator shop just called. Seems it was leaking from the top tank seam, and apparently had already been repaired once before. Looking at around $500 (or maybe more) to have it recored....(an the tank pulled apart, retinned, repaired - if I understood everything they were saying).
I was really hoping to not have to spend that much, and I REALLY want to drive her more that just bringing her home and then once around the block.

The shop guy recommended I keep the original one in case I do decide (or maybe some future owner - as if I have any plans to sell her!...) I want to repair/reinstall the original. I agree with him.

In the mean time, anyone have any ideas for either an aftermarket one that's not to involved to install, or know of any modern (semi-modern?) one I might be able to find at a junk yard that would work as a fairly close replacement?

Going home after work is becoming a burden. I see her sitting there, taunting me!

(And I do understand the best solution is probably an exercise in patience for a couple of weeks until my budget will allow for a recore/rebuild of the original....but patience is not anywhere near my strong suit when it comes to stuff like this...)

 

[BigblueC]

(And I do understand the best solution is probably an exercise in patience for a couple of weeks until my budget will allow for a recore/rebuild of the original....but patience is not anywhere near my strong suit when it comes to stuff like this...)

You know the correct answer. Don't waste time and money on some crappy, half-*** replacement. You'll likely just wind up re-coring the original after constant problems and being mad about throwing away that new aluminum/"hot rod" radiator that cost $400. I've seen it a few times before. Just find some other small project to work on in the down time while you get the original fixed.

And usradiator.com makes modern reproduction units just f.y.i., but I doubt that you save any money going that rout.

 

[Raxxter]

Yeah....I know that's the right answer...
Thanks for the link, I'll check it out.

 

[Raxxter]

So, just to come back to this....
I got the radiator back from the shop, and I could see the split on the top bubble tank, as well as evidence of a previous repair.
I worked for a while in a plumbing copper fab shop a couple of decades ago, so I figured trying to re-sodler the tank couldn't hurt. I mean, it wasn't working as it was, and there wasn't a fix unless I was willing to have it recored, so what the heck?
100-ish miles later, and not a drop (of coolant - power steering is another issue and another post...).
I know this won't last in the long term, and I doubt it will make it through a summer, but it works for now!

 

[traintech55]

Again, necessity is the mother of invention.

 

[CBODY67]

Back when these cars were just "used cars", we had a few radiator shops in town. It seemed that each repair/clean lasted about two years before the top tank seam started to seep again. After a few rounds of that, changing shops when possible, my '70 Monaco got to be in that condition. I got a new Modine radiator for it. At that time, Modine was an OEM supplier and the quality was great. NO issues for about 5 years or so, with normal yearly antifreeze maintenance. As it turns out, when the additive package in the ethylene glycol wears out, the ph of the coolant changes and the solder is degraded and leaks happen. Be that as it may.

I've used other radiator shops and had no issues as to durability. Best I can tell, the shops that do all the work volume use a better grade of solder than the smaller shops do. It's all NOT the same, apparently.

On the tanks, where they curve to index with the core, each time they are cleaned and soldered, that flange gets thinner until the tank must be replaced. Doing the solder-fix you did is great!

In the mean time, scout for a '66 and later t/stat housing and the upper hose is similar to a side-mount upper hose for a B-body 383/440, I believe. Just for later insurance.

CBODY67

 

[CBODY67]

If you want a really slick upgrade, there's a thread with pictures of a Gen III Hemi in a '68 Fury that was easy to do and seems to fit pretty nicely. Just have to do the hoses and filler cap differently. Need a mounting panel from a late model Charger Hemi, which is what the modern radiator fits. A pretty slick way of adapting it so that you can undo it later on, if needed.

CBODY67

 

[CBODY67]

Went into RockAuto and looked around some. It was '67 when the break point was, not '66. The '67 radiator has the industry number of "322" (plus the vendor's prefix). It has the upper hose on the rh side of the tank. The thermostat housing might not need to be changed. Just don't get one in chrome as they tend to leak. Get a molded upper hose and see if it works with the existing housing. The replacement hoses might have marks to trim to for some applications, so no big deal about that. Just ensure that it has the correct bends and length.

The Spectra CU322 was priced at about $300.00 from them. The "economy" models were up to $100.00 less money. This makes $500 for a re-core "too much money", no matter whom does it, to me. That's about what I paid for the Modine for my '70 Monaco, in the later 1970s, as a reference point.

CBODY67