65 Newport Wagon - Trying To Turn Crank

[65NewportRob]

Ok about 4 weeks ago I pulled the plugs and poured a generous amount of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder. today I tried to turn the crank with a socket and breaker bar ( with about a two foot pipe ) and didn't have much luck. I do believe the socket moved a little, I watched the stamped letters on the extender I had on it - it was a brand new socket and after removing did not appear to have been slipping, although I cannot guarantee.

Accoring to the previous owner the car has sat since 1973! How hard should it be to turn the crank, is it possible that it is not "locked up and just stuck from sitting?? should I give up now and call it locked up. Is there anything else I can do or should i go ahead start posting in the parts for sale section?????

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

 

[thrashingcows]

Could take a lot to free up the motor. The rings are probably stuck/rusted to the cylinder walls. You can try some diesel as well in each cylinder. As well as used diesel engine oil. Or brake fluid. Could take some time to work the rings loose....months even. Depends on your budget, and how badly you want to free up your current motor. Another thing to try too is to put a small space heater under the motor...heating and cooling the motor can help too.

Be careful not to snap off the bolt inside the crank...a big breaker bar and a 2 foot section of pipe could snap off the crank bolt, or strip it...then you'd be Fub'ard. I'd stick with just the regular breaker bar, and then tighten, and loosen it. The simple act of tightening, and loosening will put stress on the crank in each direction and could help free things up.

When you do put the fluids into each cylinder, make sure the drain plug is out of the oil pan...so you can monitor if fluid is getting down past the rings. Like I said it could take some time to free things up.

 

[commando1]

When in that position after doing everything you did (correctly, btw), I go to my local watering hole, drink my beer, stare at the huge boobed servers, lick my wounds and ask why am I in this relaxing and enjoyable hobby....

 

[Zymurgy]

Here is the advice I just received from has2bmopar:

Get a set of valve cover gaskets, new plugs and likely a carb kit.

Before you ever turn the engine over, remove the valve covers, rocker shafts and push rods, then spray your valve stems thoroughly with CRC, PB blaster or the like. Pour about 2 quarts of deisel mixed with a quart of transmission fluid down the carb and leave it for a week or so. I would rebuild the carb, file or replace your points, replace wheel cylinders, master cylinder etc. in the mean time.

When you have time to start it, pull out the spark plugs and spin the engine over until it spins freely. You may have to pour some trans fluid through it again during this process. Take a plastic dead blow or rubber hammer and bump all of the valves to be sure they are all moving freely. Replace the push rods, and rockers, spin it again with the starter being sure everything is returning freely, then put in your new spark plugs and valve covers and give it a go.

Also use a gallon jug fastened to the radiator support with a hose for a temporary fuel source to the fuel pump until you get your fuel tank cleaned out. I would put a little Marvel mystery oil or trans fluid in your gas also. (May also need a fuel pump)

 

[65NewportRob]

Removed the valve covers and saturated with oil, will give it a few days and try again. Thanks again for all the advice.

 

[thrashingcows]

That is good advice as well...Taking the valve covers off and removing the rocker arm assemblies. Then spraying the valve stems and letting them sit. Then taping them with a rubber hammer to make sure they all move freely.

But if you can't get the crank to spin then this really doesn't matter...BUT...with removing the rocker assembles, and push rods, you eliminate this as a possible source for the motor not turning over.

 

[67Monaco]

Oy, I'd yank it. Someone didn't keep up with oil changes for sure. Who knows what lurks in the bottom of the oil pan. That's got a lot of hot miles on it.

 

[thrashingcows]

I agree that it appears that it didn't have regular maintenace..BUT...it could be also that it was only driven on short trips, never allowed to get nice and hot for extended persiods. I've had motors that looked like that and they were fine....just changed the oil and filter frequently to help capture as much of the melting goo as possible. You can also run a liter of diesel mixed with your oil to help clean out the oil build up.

 

[BillGrissom]

Try working the crank back and forth. Repeat every few days for a year, if you can. You can fill the oil galleries using a hand pump sprayer (Ace garden shop) connected to the sender port, with the handle wired open. Leave it a day. If you really get desparate, try applying 90 psi air to each cylinder using quick-connect fittings from a Harbor Freight compression gage set. That will at least force the oil you poured in past the rings, which should help.