'65 Polara 383 Not Starting

[65Polara383]

The car has air, fuel, spark, and gets 90-100 psi compression. However, it wont start.

About 2 weeks ago I was able to get it to briefly run off starter fluid but it wont even do that anymore.

I have no idea where to go from here and any suggestions for what to check next would be greatly appreciated.

The car has a 383 V8 with a factory Stromberg 2-barrel carb and a 727 transmission. I have replaced the spark plugs, ballast resistor, and belts. The carburetor has also been rebuilt.

This car was last on the road in 1992 and shows no signs of severe rust or a past rodent infestation.

 

[Triple Pickle]

Have you had the distributor out or moved it around? Maybe someone else has previously?
Check the timing. It’s easy to put a 383 180 out really quick.
Remove all plugs when doing the compression check.
Double check the firing order and mind the counter clockwise rotation of the distributor.

 

[rags]

salient note from previous thread:

The car cranks, and if loaded with starter fluid will sputter to life for a about a second and then stop running.

 

[65Polara383]

salient note from previous thread:

As stated above, the car will no longer start at all.

 

[Big_John]

You didn't mention if the ignition was stock or not.

If it's stock, what do the points looks like? Gap correct?

The first thing to do is check for spark.

Do you know how to check for spark?

 

[65Polara383]

You didn't mention if the ignition was stock or not.

If it's stock, what do the points looks like? Gap correct?

The first thing to do is check for spark.

Do you know how to check for spark?

The ignition is stock, I have checked for spark and I believe the gap is correct.

The distributor points look clean and are not burned out. The distributor is appears to be installed correctly.

 

[57fury440]

Something is not right otherwise if you are getting fuel pressure and a good spark it should start. How long have you had the car, and did it run before? If you look down the carb and press the accelerator pump, is it squirting nicely? I would also re-check the timing. Check all your vacuum lines too.

 

[1970cat]

check the plugs to see if it is flooded with gas. from your other thread, the accelerator pump seal should be tight enough that there is slight resistance but not so much the it rolls over on itself.

 

[Triple Pickle]

Even with the most messed up carb there is it should hit and run for a few seconds after putting a few ounces of gas down it’s throat.
“ Appearing “ to be in time won’t cut it. Make damn sure it is to the best of your ability.
Top dead center on the compression stroke. Take the #1 plug out and stick your finger in it. “bump” it over until it blows out. Adjust the timing marks to 0 TDC on the balancer and timing tab.Remove the distributor cap and check its relation to the #1 plug wire. Go from there.
10 degrees one way or another will make one dead in the water if it hasn’t been started in a while. Expect to have to turn the distributor one way or the other even after your best guess

 

[65Polara383]

Where can I find a guide on adjusting the timing for this engine. I have never had to do timing adjustment before and am not sure what to do.

 

[Triple Pickle]

Where can I find a guide on adjusting the timing for this engine. I have never had to do timing adjustment before and am not sure what do

In my previous post?
Not trying to be a smart *** here, just saying. If you follow what I laid out it should get you in the ballpark enough to run.
No shame in being be a being a newbie. If you don’t understand what I mean about counter-clockwise distributor rotation, or have an understanding of firing orders, what it means to be 180 out, and what TDC means it’s gonna be tough going.
Get it in time. Adjusting the timing is just turning the distributor back and forth. If you have it close it will try to start. you can turn the distributor one way or the other 10 degrees or so between trying to start it.
You have to get it running before breaking out the timing light and fine tuning it.

 

[gyknot]

I'd also either sandblast the plugs or replace them. If you tried running it on old gas, it can "glaze over" on the plugs and they just won't fire like they should. Especially if it got flooded on the old gas.
Other suggestion would be to swap out the condensor as well.
I'm not saying either of these will work since I'm not there truly seeing what is going on, but they are merely suggestions.
Obviously the timing issue should be addressed first if the distributor was moved or changed.

 

[Big_John]

Where can I find a guide on adjusting the timing for this engine. I have never had to do timing adjustment before and am not sure what to do.

@Triple Pickle laid out what you need to do. If you haven't done it before, we can walk you through a few details.

You'll need a socket (think it's 1 1/4") for the balancer bolt and a breaker bar to fit the socket.

Remove #1 plug.

You'll want to place a finger over the plug hole and start turning the engine over until it comes up to compression and you will feel it blowing out. It might be best to have a helper for this.

Once the compression starts, now turn the engine over until the line on the harmonic balancer aligns with the zero mark on the timing tab. You are now at TDC for #1 on the compression stroke.

Once that's done, mark the location of #1 plug wire on the distributor and remove the cap. The rotor should be pointing directly at the mark you just made. If not, loosen the clamp bolt and turn the distributor so it does align.

That does what you would call "static timing".

To time the engine once it's running, you'll need a timing light and a wrench to fit the distributor. I like this timing light, but even a cheap one from Harbor Fright will get the job done.

Amazon product ASIN B000EVYGV4
Figure out what the initial timing should be and clamp the timing light lead over the #1 wire and the power wires for the light to the battery.

Start the engine and point the light at the timing tab. Loosen the clamp bolt for the distributor and twist it until the mark on the balancer aligns with the desired mark on the tab.

Tighten the distributor and try it. That sets the initial timing. Don't get twisted up with total timing just yet. Get it running first.

 

[57fury440]

When was the last time this engine ran?

 

[57fury440]

You said it has not been on the road since 1992. So the engine has not been run since then. I would try a different coil. Maybe your spark isn't hot enough to get it to kick over.

 

[65Polara383]

You said it has not been on the road since 1992. So the engine has not been run since then. I would try a different coil. Maybe your spark isn't hot enough to get it to kick over.

To my knowledge the engine has not been run since it was parked. I do not know why it was parked, only that it was parked by the second owner after being a long-term daily-driver.

@Triple Pickle laid out what you need to do. If you haven't done it before, we can walk you through a few details.

You'll need a socket (think it's 1 1/4") for the balancer bolt and a breaker bar to fit the socket.

Remove #1 plug.

You'll want to place a finger over the plug hole and start turning the engine over until it comes up to compression and you will feel it blowing out. It might be best to have a helper for this.

Once the compression starts, now turn the engine over until the line on the harmonic balancer aligns with the zero mark on the timing tab. You are now at TDC for #1 on the compression stroke.

Once that's done, mark the location of #1 plug wire on the distributor and remove the cap. The rotor should be pointing directly at the mark you just made. If not, loosen the clamp bolt and turn the distributor so it does align.

That does what you would call "static timing".

To time the engine once it's running, you'll need a timing light and a wrench to fit the distributor. I like this timing light, but even a cheap one from Harbor Fright will get the job done.

Amazon product ASIN B000EVYGV4
Figure out what the initial timing should be and clamp the timing light lead over the #1 wire and the power wires for the light to the battery.

Start the engine and point the light at the timing tab. Loosen the clamp bolt for the distributor and twist it until the mark on the balancer aligns with the desired mark on the tab.

Tighten the distributor and try it. That sets the initial timing. Don't get twisted up with total timing just yet. Get it running first.

Thank you so much for this information, I will attempt to adjust the timing and get it to start.

I am having the carburetor rebuilt by a professional as I realized why it wasn't getting fuel into the engine or generating vacuum. None of the gaskets are sealing properly on it and I have no idea why.
Hopefully, between the rebuild of the carburetor and some timing adjustment I can get it to start.