66 Monaco Wagon Preservation

[TxDon]

My new wagon just arrived yesterday so here we go. Its a lifetime California / Nevada car with about 95% original paint and all original trim. It's been garage kept, the interior is original except for some seat cushion repair and new carpet. 383-4V, power windows and seat and front and rear factory A/C. I spent today cleaning it up and checking it over and it seems to be in good driving condition, I plan to take it out tomorrow and see how it does on the road. My previous car was a 67 GTX so this is a totally different animal - on the round the block drive I took yesterday my main impressions were smooth, quiet and really LARGE.

My intention with this car is to keep it as original as possible and just drive it. While it looks good as 10-footer it has plenty of paint chips and wear so I don't have to worry about getting it wet or dirty. It will need work, today I noticed the AFB needs rebuilding and the engine needs a tuneup. Since I live in Texas my immediate priority is getting the dual A/C working, the PO said it had been converted to R134 but it needs a charge. (Don't they all...) I did get an owners manual and shop manual with it but I will be needing parts sources and C body expertise from the group. Here are a few pictures...

 

[66MonacoWagon]

Welcome! I saw this sell on eBay a few weeks ago. I love mine, which doesn’t have dual air but is very similar.

 

[Turboomni]

Nice car! Congrats!! Embrace her flaws ,,concentrate on safety first. Flaws I consider the history of the car especially if they weren't your fault. Embrace all the good and not so bad.

 

[CBODY67]

Car looks GREAT! Congrats!

CBODY67

 

[LocuMob]

Nice wagon! Could you post some pictures of the engine and the engine bay? Also, what does the knob/switch to the right of the parking brake release control?

 

[cm23uoc]

Congrats. Another one with rear AC and by that the mirror on the dash. Learned that a while ago.

 

[Newport 66]

Beautiful...congrats!!!!

 

[75LandYacht]

Man it’s gorgeous, congratulations.....

 

[TxDon]

Nice wagon! Could you post some pictures of the engine and the engine bay? Also, what does the knob/switch to the right of the parking brake release control?

One controls the power tailgate window and one is the fan switch for the rear air unit. Lots of room in the engine bay but there sure is a lot of plumbing for the A/C system!

 

[TxDon]

Congrats. Another one with rear AC and by that the mirror on the dash. Learned that a while ago.

Thanks, I wondered about the mirror, makes sense. At first I thought it was weird but got used to it pretty fast.

 

[TxDon]

I took it out to a local cars and coffee this morning. Not a lot of lookers but then a guy drove up in a 68 Chrysler 300 coupe and made a beeline for it. We talked big Mopar for quite a while. I did a good drive including some freeway frontage at about 65. Soft ride, smooth and quiet but not a corner carver! Put in some gas, the PO says it runs fine on regular so we shall see. My first issue will be getting the A/C working, I'll search on here but could use help from anyone who has successfully converted the factory system to R134.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Beautiful car. Congratulations

As the owner of a 66 T&C with working dual A/C, I suggest using roughly 55% of the original R12 charge weight listed on the compressor tag when recharging it with R134A. The R134A molecules are smaller and therefore expansion rates are quite different and there needs to be less of a charge in the system to have it work properly.

Put a dye charge in the system to show leaks (with a black light) and repair any leaking fittings/joints/unions with R134A compatible O-rings. If a hose shows a leak anywhere other than at a fitting you must replace it with a known good used hose or a new R134A compatible hose. Same with any hard lines. Replace only the parts that leak. Leave alone any hoses and joints/fittings/unions that don't show leaks, as they are well seasoned by years of R12 Freon and compressor oil and have as effective a barrier against seepage of R134A molecules as a new hose would have. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise - they're just trying to rip you off.

Since the previous owner has converted the system already then presumably the system has been evacuated of the old non-R134A compatible compressor oil and has used the proper PAG(?) oil required and has also presumably removed the various EPR valves etc and installed a compressor temp regulated cut-off switch, so you're good there... check for those things and make sure that's been done or you risk grenading your compressor.

Make sure the condenser is clear of junk (bugs leaves and dirt) and enjoy your meat locker!

 

[GJS]

Wow. That's one gorgeous wagon. Congratulations!

 

[TxDon]

Beautiful car. Congratulations

As the owner of a 66 T&C with working dual A/C, I suggest using roughly 55% of the original R12 charge weight listed on the compressor tag when recharging it with R134A. The R134A molecules are smaller and therefore expansion rates are quite different and there needs to be less of a charge in the system to have it work properly.

Put a dye charge in the system to show leaks (with a black light) and repair any leaking fittings/joints/unions with R134A compatible O-rings. If a hose shows a leak anywhere other than at a fitting you must replace it with a known good used hose or a new R134A compatible hose. Same with any hard lines. Replace only the parts that leak. Leave alone any hoses and joints/fittings/unions that don't show leaks, as they are well seasoned by years of R12 Freon and compressor oil and have as effective a barrier against seepage of R134A molecules as a new hose would have. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise - they're just trying to rip you off.

Since the previous owner has converted the system already then presumably the system has been evacuated of the old non-R134A compatible compressor oil and has used the proper PAG(?) oil required and has also presumably removed the various EPR valves etc and installed a compressor temp regulated cut-off switch, so you're good there... check for those things and make sure that's been done or you risk grenading your compressor.

Make sure the condenser is clear of junk (bugs leaves and dirt) and enjoy your meat locker!

I talked to the PO today, his conversion included evacuation, change to PAG oil, and recharge with R134A. No change to hose ports, EPR valve, or filter drier. He said it worked fine for a couple of years then he let the car sit for quite awhile and it stopped cooling. Everything appears to operate correctly and the compressor runs without noise but it just doesn't cool. I have disconnected the compressor wire so it doesn't run and have just started researching the whole conversion issue. I agree with your approach, I would love to use most of the stock parts if I can. Obviously the supply companies like Original Air want to sell stuff so their instructions seem to always include "replace all hoses and O-rings". They also seem big on selling underhood update kits changing over to new style Sanden compressors and new condensers. Many opinions, my research continues.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I would try a recharge and dye charge and go from there. Good luck.

 

[TxDon]

Still working on research for A/C work. I did take the car to a shop I've used a number of times over the years. As soon as I told them the year of the car they said they can't work on it, said the tech "doesn't have the right tools." 6 years ago they did a conversion on my 63 Olds with no problem, sounds more like they don't have an older tech anymore with the knowledge. I'm taking it to another shop tomorrow so we will see.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Where are you located? Perhaps you can get suggestions as to where to take it.

Alternatively, find out who the tech was who did your Olds and ask where he went to.

 

[TxDon]

Where are you located? Perhaps you can get suggestions as to where to take it.

I'm in McKinney Texas northwest of Dallas, recommendations would be great.

 

[TxDon]

I would try a recharge and dye charge and go from there. Good luck.

I spent time today looking closely at everything under the hood. All the visible A/C parts are intact and there is no signs of leaks at any of the fitting joints. The compressor has some old dirt and grease at the bottom rear but it is dry around the pulley/clutch assembly and there is no sign of oil throwoff on the hood pad. all the undercar lines going to the rear unit are clean and dry. I am starting to think it may be worth trying just a recharge but I would have to replace the filter/drier. I have never done any A/C service myself, what kind of equipment would I need to do it?

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I wouldn't do it until I was sure the system was definitely discharged - bad burns and EYE DAMAGE are a big concern.

Keeping moisture from entering the system is also a big concern, so minimizing the length of time anything is open to the atmosphere is important.

Other than that, to remove and replace any components involves simple hand tools including decent line wrenches. Any fitting you open has to have a new R134A O-ring installed with a little dab of PAG oil to lubricate.