67-68 Chrysler Imperial Front Brake Question???

[GoneLoco99]

On a 67-68 Imperial, can you “UPDATE / CHANGE” the exciting factory OEM brake calipers & rotors to a “NEWER / UPDATED” style capiler?

THANK YOU

 

[detmatt]

Not without equal or even greater expense then rebuilding the Budd system which really is fantastic.

 

[CBODY67]

In reality, the 4-piston caliper was very good, back then, especially as Corvettes used 4-piston calipers (different system) back then too. I suspect the Budd system had some of the same issues as the Corvettes did back then? But now that braking performance on newer vehicles has become what it is, now there are 6+ piston caliper brake systems. As the single piston calipers did not apply an even clamping force to the rotor for best performance in very heavy-duty applications, although they worked very well for stock and mild HD applications, by observation, and were easier to service.

Chrysler, once again, was ahead of the curve, it seems.

Any brake frictions which have worked well for you, @detmatt?

CBODY67

 

[detmatt]

In reality, the 4-piston caliper was very good, back then, especially as Corvettes used 4-piston calipers (different system) back then too. I suspect the Budd system had some of the same issues as the Corvettes did back then? But now that braking performance on newer vehicles has become what it is, now there are 6+ piston caliper brake systems. As the single piston calipers did not apply an even clamping force to the rotor for best performance in very heavy-duty applications, although they worked very well for stock and mild HD applications, by observation, and were easier to service.

Chrysler, once again, was ahead of the curve, it seems.

Any brake frictions which have worked well for you, @detmatt?

CBODY67

I’m not sure I understand your question.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I think he means pads - new (metallic), or old (asbestos based)...

 

[detmatt]

If that’s the case, non-metallic, less wear on expensive rotors.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Agreed!

 

[sprice]

If that’s the case, non-metallic, less wear on expensive rotors.

Did not consider that. Good to know. Rebuilding D10's should can be with asbestos or whatever is considered non-metallic is the key here?

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I'd keep the worn out pads as rebuildable cores for the future, but buy NOS asbestos from Craig @mobileparts

 

[GoneLoco99]

Thanks for the advice and information, it is very much appreciated, truly.
But I am looking to upgrade (newer) and for feasibility.
I wanna be able to go to the parts store and be able to buy calipers & rotors, that aren’t obsolete or next to impossible to get my hands on.
I’m not looking for factory or to keep OEM.
I know there are many on this site that love the OEM or Factory style with classic/antique cars and I truly respect that & your opinions, but that isn’t what I am after, and I apologize if I offend you.
There is a wealths of knowledge on this site, thus why I came here, to ask questions & for help.
Just seeing if there is a newer year/make/model caliper & rotor (pin caliper) system that will bolt directly onto the 67-68 Imperial spindles?
Again, THANK YOU ALL for your wealth of knowledge, help & information. It is MUCH appreciated.

 

[detmatt]

Nothing will bolt directly. Just one question, how many miles do you see yourself putting on this car per year?

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

We also understand your side of the picture here. No offence taken!

Most of the brake parts that we are using (even in our upgrades), are becoming more and more difficult to find, so it's understandable that people look for more modern replacements.

However, the 4-piston Budd calipers that your car is equipped with have had some of their own upgrades in their servicability (Detmatt can fill you in on this), that make them last far longer than they originally did AND maintain their ability to function (even after long periods of sitting), due to the inclusion of stainless steel sleeves. Additionally their performance rivals out of modern-day brake components.

Listen to what he has to say - and know now that nothing modern feasibly bolts up to the IMP the way they do on C bodies (sadly), so his advice to you will be golden.

 

[GoneLoco99]

If I had to guess, I’d say a couple thousand.
They (the brakes & rotors) are currently at a point now, where they need replaced. Plus I honestly don’t think the calipers are @ 100%, since the car was sitting for 15+ years, before I acquired it a year ago.
I am bringing it back to life & putting it on the road again.

 

[CBODY67]

As you will discover, just because the '67-'73 Imperials had their base in C-body land, they also have some specific-to-Imperial items on them, usually to better handle the increased weight, I suspect, and to also make them a better competitor for the highly-isolated passenger experience which Lincolns and Cadillacs offered, while still maintaining Chryslers' unique driving feel. Which can make a lowly '67-'73 New Yorker a better choice for a vehicle you can buy parts for at your local auto supply/big box chain store, by observation.

IF you think the disc brakes are tough to work around, wait until you seek factory replacement TRIM items. One place where the exclusivity of Imperial's lower production (compared to Lincoln or Cadillac) can work against it.

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67

 

[GoneLoco99]

As you will discover, just because the '67-'73 Imperials had their base in C-body land, they also have some specific-to-Imperial items on them, usually to better handle the increased weight, I suspect, and to also make them a better competitor for the highly-isolated passenger experience which Lincolns and Cadillacs offered, while still maintaining Chryslers' unique driving feel. Which can make a lowly '67-'73 New Yorker a better choice for a vehicle you can buy parts for at your local auto supply/big box chain store, by observation.

IF you think the disc brakes are tough to work around, wait until you seek factory replacement TRIM items. One place where the exclusivity of Imperial's lower production (compared to Lincoln or Cadillac) can work against it.

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67

I have come to find this out first hand, as I’ve been trying to locate other “Imperial” parts.

 

[detmatt]

I have come to find this out first hand, as I’ve been trying to locate other “Imperial” parts.

What are you looking for? I have lots of parts for these. The reason I asked how many miles were planning on putting on the car every year is because a fresh brake job on that car using factory components should last you conservatively 10 years before he would even need to touch them again.

 

[GoneLoco99]

z

What are you looking for? I have lots of parts for these. The reason I asked how many miles were planning on putting on the car every year is because a fresh brake job on that car using factory components should last you conservatively 10 years before he would even need to touch them again.

Do you have a good passenger side rear bumperette?

 

[detmatt]

z

Do you have a good passenger side rear bumperette?

Depends on what you mean by good. I have a couple of Rights that would be good cores for re-chroming but I’d doubt that they’re cosmetically better than what you have. How about a picture of yours?

 

[GoneLoco99]

Depends on what you mean by good. I have a couple of Rights that would be good cores for re-chroming but I’d doubt that they’re cosmetically better than what you have. How about a picture of yours?

Mine is really dull. Not much chrome to it.

 

[detmatt]

Yep, that one is better than what I have. Like I said, mine would be cores.