In order to get you feet wet in these areas, you might peruse the body of knowledge on B and E-body Chrysler Corp products. I highly-suspect that the C-body and Imperial vehicles can be similar.
As to "paint daubs" and "inspection markings", these might be somewhat consistent in some respects, BUT you also have to remember that it was human beings doing them AND one shift of human inspectors might do them just a bit differently than the next shift of human inspectors. Some of the more standardized stamps and related paints are available from the B/E-body high-restoration supply people.
Because of these variations between plant to plant and shift to shift (although I know the Imperials were all done in one plant), the absolute BEST way to do things is to photograph ALL of the markings on your car as you disassemble (or get ready to disassemble it) the vehicle. Carefully cleaning each item do discover the colors and method of application of each paint stripe/daub/stamp/splatter on YOUR car. Then you can also purchase some "approved" brushes from the above-mentioned MOPAR restoration supply vendors.
Back to the "inspection marks". These generally are on joints where the inspector verifies the bolt/nut torque with the paint stripe across what was just inspected. Like steering linkage joints, for example. Back in the 1990s, there was an article on these inspection marks and stamps in "Mopar Action" or similar. The Challenger restoration they were using for reference was way over-marked compared to any other stock Chrysler product myself or some others in our Mopar Club had ever seen. Reading such an article can be helpful so you know what you might be looking at on your car . . . or not looking at. End result was that their pictures of the Challenger's underbody looked very colorful, but it proved the point of what MIGHT have happened.
Also pay attention to "grease pencil markings". When we did the Superbird restoration, there was a grease pencil marking on the outside vertical surface of the lh valve cover on the 440. After looking at it for a while, visualizing it and how to reproduce it, one of our guys did it and it looked extremely accurate compared to the picture we had of it. There should be some marks to note the temperature of the coolant protection. Not sure if they were done at the assy plant or at the selling dealer, to show that somebody looked at it?
On the Superbird, there were three paint stripes on the lh axle tube. All the way around. Three different colors for ID on the production line. Plus the ratio and possible SureGrip tags on the rear axle center section bolt, on a particular bolt for each one.
Of course, you'll want to document ALL decals under the hood, in the trunk, and in the door frame areas. In some cases, you might remove them with the use of a heat gun, provided they are in good enough shape.
THEN, as you are somewhat "in the neighborhood", you can trek to Mopar Nats and spend time under the tents, in the "Survivor" area and "Concours Judging" areas. You might be able to get a copy of their (used to be 1400+ point) judging sheet, watching as they do their judging activities, topside and bottomside. Then, you can head to the Carlisle Mopar event, too.
In looking at how many paints and undercoats are applied on the assy line, you can look at the spray pattern to determine where the spray gun was located so you can approximate that same spray gun position and angle. PLUS where any related overspray might have ended up. Plus any "gaps" in the coverage. You'll have to restrain yourself from making it look "too pretty", too, all things considered.
IF you can get a B or E-body assy manual, that might be helpful too. Reason is that it can also detail what lubes and greases go where and how much. That cab be very interesting in itself.
I applaud your desires and future efforts to achieve your goal. I wish you well in this venture!
CBODY67
