I've said it before, it needs to be said again, I'm glad you saved this car.
73 Monaco wagon
- Thread starter MonacoBlue
- Start date
MonacoBlue
Senior Member
Astute observation. It's got one coming off the tray. Hidden from view...here's a pic...it's the silicone looking line...
MonacoBlue
Senior Member
Thanks again. Yes it would have been a shame for this to go to the crusher while it still has some service life left in it. It is a piece of manufacturing history worthy of preservation.
70NEWYORKER
Well-Known Member
Where does it exit the interior? Down the "C" or "D" pillar?
MonacoBlue
Senior Member
C pillar. I'll try to get a pic posted. The lines are covered by some plastic covers.
MonacoBlue
Senior Member
I cleaned the internals up with a vacuum and sprayed some anti rust aerosol around some surface rusted items then sealed it back up and re-attached it to the roof, but not before I ripped down the last remaining vestiges of the headliner. Good bye and good riddance. There was an insulating pad that went between the unit and the ceiling. When I get a new headliner installed I'll have to make sure it gets that.
MonacoBlue
Senior Member
Those odd shaped plastic cover panels you see lying on the cargo area floor are what hides the A/C lines from view.
70NEWYORKER
Well-Known Member
Very cool!! (no pun intended)!!! Thanks!!!
FWIW, I used this stuff to replace the headliner padding in my Barracuda. Light weight and a very good heat insulator.
EZ Cool Automotive Insulation heat barrier and noise reduction for cars, trucks, classic cars, street rods and much more
EZ Cool Automotive Insulation heat barrier and noise reduction for cars, trucks, classic cars, street rods and much more
MonacoBlue
Senior Member
MonacoBlue
Senior Member
Oh wow thanks a lot for the lead...!
MonacoBlue
Senior Member
Random issue. The left rear quarter trim I bought off a junk 74 Monaco wagon is about 4" too short when compared to a 73. This is the second time I have gotten burned because I was ignorant. Well, after the first time I should have known better. Ugh. So, I STILL need the silver trim strip with the rub strip.
Buy a Chrysler 1973 parts book. It is 150 well spent. You wont mis buy anymore.
Or download a free one MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Parts & Accessories Books
Paper is better
TxDon
Well-Known Member
MonacoBlue, thanks for posting the pictures and description of the roof A/C unit. I'm trying to get my system working and converted to R134A and have been told the expansion valve on the rear unit may need to be replaced. When you dropped the unit were you able to do so without disconnecting or damaging any of the lines? Do you think it would be possible to disconnect the passenger side and lower the unit on that hinge? I'm going to have a shop do the A/C work but I doubt they have ever seen anything like this before...
MonacoBlue
Senior Member
That is a good point, TX Don! Yes there is some flex to the lines allowed, they won't get over-stressed with a little tilt... I was focused on getting the thing down where I could get the cover off, but I didn't consider only removing one side and letting it 'hinge' down. If you do not have a shop that you fully trust, and I assume that you have a setup similar to mine/this, then I would suggest you gently take it apart yourself and see if it brings you the access you are looking for. I would suggest you get all/any ABS type plastic panels OFF because they are not going to flex, at 45 years old. The one problem I would foresee is the full removal of the normally hidden sheet metal (METAL - STEEL -PITTSBURGH -USA by golly!!) cover from on top of the unit. It is secured all across and at each end with sheet metal screws. The screws on the end may be hard to access to turn/remove/reinstall, unless you drop it all the way off? Or not! Give it a shot!
I bet someone on here can direct you to a Factory Service Manual that covers this obscure and rare assembly...
So now here is my lecture of enlightened self interest. At no extra charge. Pardon me while I get on my soapbox. Having thus arrived at this page this is certainly not your first rodeo and I am sure you have vast mechanical knowledge and deep automotive wisdom I could learn from. Nevertheless...humbly suggested...
Nobody is going to take the care that YOU take to disassemble this, because it's not their ride. If you are successful, I would leave it in as disassembled a condition as possible, it resting in a local-travel-stable condition on a plastic milk crate with a vintage orange bean bag chair holding it up, or some such suitable object, so some underpaid assistant yahoo screwdriver turner who doesn't give a flip isn't delegated the task of unscrewing/unbolting/scratching up your fabulous chariot's interior wagon bits, which are made of pure 1970's Unobtainium, at this point in our technological timeline. You can say, adamantly: "I have given you access (say it like it's an undeserved privilege)...Once you are done, just LEAVE it the way you FOUND it." Then give them that silent, lingering Texas Ranger-serious-level stare that fully communicates the appropriate emotional message you intend for them to receive. You will have succeeded, if they walk away muttering quietly, "That dude has *issues*..."
>>>>>>End of sermon<<<<<<
I hope you have a sense of humor.
So, what's the plan? Does that info help? You might also consider tenderly and lovingly removing the expansion valve yourself, if that's an option...?
Speaking of AC units, I just replaced a condenser on our family car. The local shop wanted $1020 Saturday. I was stunned. Did it myself for $330. And an afternoon. I think I deserve a $690 something, for that. Tires for the Jeep, perhaps....
Feel free to post pics!!!
TxDon
Well-Known Member
Thanks, great response. After my last post here I did get some info and pics from a parts manual that shows the setup better along with the top cover you refer to. Now that I know what is involved here I am more worried than ever about the conversion. I would love to do the work myself but I have never done A/C work and have none of the tools or knowledge. I trust the shop I'm working with to do good work but they are more familiar with new custom system installs than this old iron plus they are charging by the hour... I do agree that I should drop that unit and reinstall it myself.
Here is my project thread including other comments on the A/C issue;
66 Monaco Wagon Preservation
MonacoBlue
Senior Member
That is a stunning wagon, Don. That mid-60's copper color is great. The wood trim looks terrific and the interior is super. Dashboard Bubble compass! Yeah!
I may be demonstrating some ignorance here, but to my knowledge the only thing involved with a conversion from R12 to R134(a?) is a different type adapter fitting on the low pressure side (and maybe the high pressure side too?). That being said, if you have a source for R12 that won't bankrupt you, I'd go for it. I didn't read your thread in detail, you may already have answered these questions: Do you know if the system is still sealed or does it leak? If it's sealed do you know if the compressor is functioning ok? If you already know the system has some malfunctioning components, but it's sealed, can you take it to the person who has the R12 and get the remaining R12+oil vacuumed out of the system for recycling back into it later with additional new R12, once it's been repaired AND tested for leaks? The thing about R134 (as I recall) is it is compatible with R12 but is not as efficient in heat transfer, it's just more environmentally friendly. I have heard stories of guys taking their classic cars across the border to Mexico to get R12 charges because it was legal there (or at least available), but not available in the US. But that was probably 20 years ago.
I am not sure if I am helping you or not. Don't be afraid of AC stuff, I am just a shade tree mechanic hobbyist, you just do what you can on your own to your level of expertise and get help when you need it. And yes safety is always important, never want to confuse low pressure with high pressure fittings, those are typically ID'd with different sizes. (If that concept is not clear to a person preparing to work on an AC system, they have no business working on it. Not trying to sound patronizing I would just hate for anyone to get hurt because I didn't warn them!).
I would say step one is take it to a shop you trust and get it diagnosed. A lot of times they do that for free. Then you decide how much of the repair you can do by yourself. The major thing is of course the compressor. Those are pricey. And of course the prime directive when working with an AC system is: if you open the system (i.e. to replace compressor, evaporator, condenser, etc.), you must replace the drier, in addition to whatever else in the system you may be getting replaced. Especially if it is a 52 year old car that has never had the AC system opened!
I am not sure how the expansion valve is attached to the rest of the system, i.e. is it just threaded on or is it silver soldered or brazed or some such...I do not know. If that is your point of concern and you do not have the skill set yourself then yes you are absolutely right to seek out a skilled tradesperson to have the work done correctly.
That about exhausts my shallow knowledge of AC systems. I hope that helps. Want to hear what you decide to do next.
I may be demonstrating some ignorance here, but to my knowledge the only thing involved with a conversion from R12 to R134(a?) is a different type adapter fitting on the low pressure side (and maybe the high pressure side too?). That being said, if you have a source for R12 that won't bankrupt you, I'd go for it. I didn't read your thread in detail, you may already have answered these questions: Do you know if the system is still sealed or does it leak? If it's sealed do you know if the compressor is functioning ok? If you already know the system has some malfunctioning components, but it's sealed, can you take it to the person who has the R12 and get the remaining R12+oil vacuumed out of the system for recycling back into it later with additional new R12, once it's been repaired AND tested for leaks? The thing about R134 (as I recall) is it is compatible with R12 but is not as efficient in heat transfer, it's just more environmentally friendly. I have heard stories of guys taking their classic cars across the border to Mexico to get R12 charges because it was legal there (or at least available), but not available in the US. But that was probably 20 years ago.
I am not sure if I am helping you or not. Don't be afraid of AC stuff, I am just a shade tree mechanic hobbyist, you just do what you can on your own to your level of expertise and get help when you need it. And yes safety is always important, never want to confuse low pressure with high pressure fittings, those are typically ID'd with different sizes. (If that concept is not clear to a person preparing to work on an AC system, they have no business working on it. Not trying to sound patronizing I would just hate for anyone to get hurt because I didn't warn them!).
I would say step one is take it to a shop you trust and get it diagnosed. A lot of times they do that for free. Then you decide how much of the repair you can do by yourself. The major thing is of course the compressor. Those are pricey. And of course the prime directive when working with an AC system is: if you open the system (i.e. to replace compressor, evaporator, condenser, etc.), you must replace the drier, in addition to whatever else in the system you may be getting replaced. Especially if it is a 52 year old car that has never had the AC system opened!
I am not sure how the expansion valve is attached to the rest of the system, i.e. is it just threaded on or is it silver soldered or brazed or some such...I do not know. If that is your point of concern and you do not have the skill set yourself then yes you are absolutely right to seek out a skilled tradesperson to have the work done correctly.
That about exhausts my shallow knowledge of AC systems. I hope that helps. Want to hear what you decide to do next.
TxDon
Well-Known Member
Thanks, this car was so pretty I could not walk away. It has a few other needs but the big one is getting the A/C working since I live in Texas! The short version: the PO bought the car in 2012 and did quite a few repairs on it which included a quick R134A conversion. Just an evacuation, oil change and new refrigerant but no new charge ports or filter drier. He said both front and rear units worked great for about 1 1/2 to 2 years but then I think he stopped using the car and let it sit. Worst thing for an A/C system and it stopped cooling. All the controls and fans operate correctly, clutch and compressor turn without noise, but it just doesn't cool. So there is most likely a leak somewhere. I'm inclined now to let the shop look at it, flush it and leak check it but not open up the rear unit. Replace the filter drier and maybe the front expansion valve and a recharge. If it works, great but if they find any big problems I may stop them since they charge by the hour. Then I will have to see on next steps.
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