A727 Diagnosis requested..

[commando1]

drive it till it will not move..

That's the solution I was looking for.
Seeing from the replies it could be anything from a simple fix with a screwdriver to a total overhaul,
drive it until it stops is what I am doing.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Drive it to Carlisle if it makes it I would say it will be find for a while. If it doesn't well you should no better than to take the word of a O/O who hears banging in the drive line and turns for home because the tow bill will be less the closer I get LOL

 

[rumpfox]

727 problems

sounds to me like the gov. got some crap in it. jack the rear wheels up and let run in reverse for 20 min. to see if it flushes it out or pull the gov. plug out and shoot some compresed air thru it. this happens with a flush. all the crap goes thru the gov. first.

 

[commando1]

sounds to me like the gov. got some crap in it. jack the rear wheels up and let run in reverse for 20 min. to see if it flushes it out or pull the gov. plug out and shoot some compresed air thru it. this happens with a flush. all the crap goes thru the gov. first.

Right now that's work.
I'm taking the advice of 70bigblockdodge.

 

[moper]

Well, the one in my Newport started doing that one day. Right out of the blue. What had happened was I cracked the case where the sprague is cast into it. That let the output shaft wiggle, and it would be like what we'd call a "nuetral drop" after a full stop. Free rev, then "BANG" into gear. It got progressively softer on the "bang", and then stopped all together when the sprague tore completely off the case. If it was me, I would pull the transmission.
Because "if" there is a problem with the sprague, it could cause a tremendous explosion if the engine rpm exceeds 3500-4K. Like with enough power to take your foot clean off, and blow transmission parts up through the floor & out through the roof and doors.
Had I not seen my own brake in that way (broken sprague) I wouldn't worry much. But given my experience, I'd pull it or at least drop the pan and look very carefully at it without the valve body in it.

 

[commando1]

99.9% of that time, that symptom is normal slippage from shear age.
If I don't think of it that way, what you say would scare me so bad I'd look at my NYB as a landmine.
I'll file that one away, though.

 

[moper]

Well, I should say I was 20 when that happened ('90). I pulled the trans, and stuck it under a bench, and replaced it with a 4sp. (car was a 383 with some nitrous). Years later I sold all my cores (part of my divorce), and about 2 years ago the guy that bought them called me and told me what he had found, and how had I done it?
I drove the car daily, and when that happened I drove it another couple days with it getting progressively worse. He's never seen one do that, I've never seen on do that, and between us if we haven't built 100 transmissions and taken more apart for parts I'd be surprised.
Keep driving it, but liek the Dr. ays "if it get's worse, [replace it]".

 

[Fury440]

Maybe a stupid question, but when it was "flushed" what type of trany fluid did it get re-filled with? A secondary question, how well was it flushed, did all the goop get removed or was some just relocated? Also, when it was flushed and drained was the trany fluid hot or cold?

 

[commando1]

Maybe a stupid question, but when it was "flushed" what type of trany fluid did it get re-filled with? A secondary question, how well was it flushed, did all the goop get removed or was some just relocated? Also, when it was flushed and drained was the trany fluid hot or cold?

Flushed within the last few hundred miles or so.
I've known about the "DON'T FLUSH OLD TRANNIES" myth but I ignored it.

It was a complete and thorough flush. All goo removed. I am certain of it.

It was power flushed using the 2 bucket method. Running, old out, new in.
It was filled with just plain Dex/Merc.

 

[CanCritter]

Flushed within the last few hundred miles or so.
I've known about the "DON'T FLUSH OLD TRANNIES" myth but I ignored it.

It was a complete and thorough flush. All goo removed. I am certain of it.

It was power flushed using the 2 bucket method. Running, old out, new in.
It was filled with just plain Dex/Merc.

thinkin all ya did was move crud around....l look at it this way....

fix = X amount of dollars while you sit at home in comfort

don't fix= expensive tow at worst possibile time +couple days stay at cheap motel +X amount of dollars

you know its comein...its now just a matter of where you let it happen....

 

[commando1]

Too much peer pressure around here to do it correctly...

 

[Big_John]

Was the filter replaced? I have seen them get gummed up and cause an issue just like yours.

Again... simple stuff....

 

[twostick]

The next time you have it out Stan, pull the shifter into 1 before you take off the second time and see if it does it. If it drives off normal then the overrunning clutch (sprag) is FUBAR.

Best to change that sooner than later as if it piles up completely, it can spin in the case. They invented the bolt in sprag to save cases that have this happen.

I would replace it with a Super Sprag as they have extra elements in them to prevent the rollover that causes the failure.

If you need some incentive, Google TF sprag failure/explosion.

Kevin

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I like the run in reverse fix. Just do all of your daily errands backwards.:upside down:

 

[68plymouth383]

Dairy Queen trip in reverse both to, and from should get you close to the 20 min reverse drive.

 

[commando1]

To think I came here for help....

 

[68plymouth383]

We're just trying to help.

To think I came here for help....

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Help?.....

 

[commando1]

Well, so far, from what I read, I should do everything from, Ignore it and keep driving to, HOLYF%#@ don't even leave the driveway or a landmine will explode ripping all my limbs off.

Yes, "HELP"

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Keep it under 4 grand and ignore.