Beefing up a C body

I like Mev's New Yorker too . I have watched his youtube videos. Most impressive.
 
Are you going to run pump premium or race gas? Is the plan to run pump premium? Is that possible with aluminum heads at that boost level? If you have a loud exhaust how will you monitor detonation? Will you have a knock sensor and read out?
Looks great by the way.
I'm looking into my options as far as fuel. I'm looking into running pump gas with a race fuel mix. And I'm putting an mad boost timing master. Will probably look into getting a drum of race fuel then figuring out what I'll have to mix it at. I'm really new to this and have a lot of help from my engine builder.
 
Wouldn't it be wise to start with a 5 psi boost pulley to break in the engine and move up slowly from there? You most likely could get by with pump premium to start with ,I don't know. Are you considering intercooling?
 
mine is a sleeper, drive it 70+ miles to the track, bolt on drag radials, make some runs then change tires and head home. It goes 12.35 now.



Performer RPM and quickfuel carb with a drop base air cleaner, it is tight but fits.

Hell yeah, dude!
 
I also have a 440 from a motor home which was stroked to 500 with 550 hp, 323 limited slip from 1975 Imperial and 727 column shift on my 1972 Fury III. I ordered the lower Edelbrock manifold and it clears the hood just barely with dual snorkel. I am working on getting the shift to work around my headers 2.5" TTI (did you deal with that yet?). Also working on issue with adjusting kick down on 727.

I have a firm feel suspension and cop car wheels - I am sure it would be considered a sleeper as does yours since most people would not expect the beast that lies within.

I am getting a local Mopar shop to help me with my mechanical issues. I need the paint color sanded, waiting on SMS headliner and seat cushions, then I will post my sleeper photos and videos.
View attachment 182876 View attachment 182877

Good luck - on your project. Post burnout video someday as will I.
I had clearence with the headers but I think it was just dumb luck
 
Keep the intake. It's the best compromise intake there is. (BTW that means it's great low down, and up higher, just not as good up high as some others. Get a drop base air filter assembly and run a shorter element. It's not rocket science or hard to find.
 
Only thing with drop-base air cleaners and not-3 inch tall elements is the decreased space between the top of the air cleaner lid and the top of the carb airhorn. Some times it matters more than others. NOT to forget about how much of the air cleaner stud sticks up past the air cleaner lid!! Sometimes, a longer bolt and flat washer are best for that.

CBODY67
 
So what air cleaner are you running with it?
Stock dual-snorkel. I also used the 750 cfm Eddy carb. This manifold is a little taller than stock, but it still clears the hood.

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Going back to the original post, have you measured how much space there is between the carb pad and the underside of your hood? There are two related issues I think.

1. Space from carb pad to underside of hood. This gives you clearance for your air cleaner. (Sorry, being basic not because of the knowledge of the audience but to separate the issues.) If this is just a little short of what you need, you can just use a drop base air cleaner to get clearance. However.....

2. Space from carb top to underside of air cleaner. There’s a minimum space here that you want to maintain in order to keep airflow. It doesn’t matter if you have the best heads and intake with a 6” filter if you’re choking flow by making a tight turn. I think the minimum is 4” but I hope someone will confirm.

By measuring the space you have, you can better see your options. It might be your best bet (in terms of actual flow in an as-installed state) is with a different manifold. You may find that you have enough space for a drop-base air cleaner.
 
Here's is a picture of my hood open. If you enlarge the shot you can see that there is only a slight area of wear on my pad. This has been over a twelve year period using the Performer RPM intake manifold.

Just FYI.

IMG_0003.JPG
 
If going stroker way, and u think 496 etc is enough. Go 383/400 way, those have lower deck hights and has 1-3 inch more space.
 
If going stroker way, and u think 496 etc is enough. Go 383/400 way, those have lower deck hights and has 1-3 inch more space.
I'm realizing the size advantage if the B series engine right now.
 
I also have a 440 from a motor home which was stroked to 500 with 550 hp, 323 limited slip from 1975 Imperial and 727 column shift on my 1972 Fury III. I ordered the lower Edelbrock manifold and it clears the hood just barely with dual snorkel. I am working on getting the shift to work around my headers 2.5" TTI (did you deal with that yet?). Also working on issue with adjusting kick down on 727.

I have a firm feel suspension and cop car wheels - I am sure it would be considered a sleeper as does yours since most people would not expect the beast that lies within.

I am getting a local Mopar shop to help me with my mechanical issues. I need the paint color sanded, waiting on SMS headliner and seat cushions, then I will post my sleeper photos and videos.
View attachment 182876 View attachment 182877

Good luck - on your project. Post burnout video someday as will I.


that fuel pump wont last long there!!!
 
Has anyone tried to turn their C body into a sleeper? Or do Y'all prefer stock? I got a 68 Fury iii with a 440 from a motorhome with an Edelbrock top end kit and headers . 727 with column shift and 3.23 gears. Plenty of power to move all that steel. My problem now is that the intake is too high for any filter to fit. Now I'm thinking about a gasketed scoop. I just don't want to alter the originality but i think my hands are tiedView attachment 182783 View attachment 182784 View attachment 182785
you can totally have a sleeper

IMG_6440 (2).jpg
 
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