Bent Pushrod

[Little Pete]

Finishing everything up on this car and wanted to replace the fuel lines from the carburetor to the fuel pump. I have new 5/16 line bent already and ready to install. I'm just worried about the fuel line>rubber hose connections. My hand made lines do not have the factory flare (nipple) at the end to reinforce the clamp and make the connection tight like the factory.

Would you just slide the rubber hose over the metal line, clamp it and forget the flare?

I am not sure how to form a flare like this? This is not a double flare" like a brake line exactly?

Thinking safety and integrity here.

 

[Davea Lux]

Go down to your local auto parts and buy a nipple fitting for the carb and the fuel pump and run a fuel hose. Someplace, where there is room, install a fuel filter in the line. (This is a common issue as steel lines get kinked or otherwise fail, take your old line fittings with you as there are a wide variety of options, usually in the Dorman line.)

Dave

 

[Little Pete]

Go down to your local auto parts and buy a nipple fitting for the carb and the fuel pump and run a fuel hose. Someplace, where there is room, install a fuel filter in the line. (This is a common issue as steel lines get kinked or otherwise fail, take your old line fittings with you as there are a wide variety of options, usually in the Dorman line.)

Dave

Thanks Dave.

 

[doug_scott]

If you have a brake line flaring tool, make a the first part of a double flare. It will work, and will keep the hose on. Do not just use the flaring tool without the collet, it will leave a sharp edge.

 

[Knebel]

I have been running fuel line without that flare and never had an issue. Just dont put 60psi on it I guess!?

 

[cantflip]

I have been running fuel line without that flare and never had an issue. Just dont put 60psi on it I guess!?

You're probably never going to have a problem, but I do prefer something the clamp can't pass. Any non-sharp flare will do nicely. I recently bent a steel 3/8 line for the parts car... ugly, and totally effective. I used a bubble flare to retain the hose, but have done single flares in the past. I have done the straight tube as well, but my superstitious side forced me to at least double the clamps.

Go down to your local auto parts and buy a nipple fitting for the carb and the fuel pump and run a fuel hose. Someplace, where there is room, install a fuel filter in the line. (This is a common issue as steel lines get kinked or otherwise fail, take your old line fittings with you as there are a wide variety of options, usually in the Dorman line.)

Dave

I know that should never have a problem, but I hate to replace steel with rubber. I have, but only as a temporary fix. If using F.I. hose, the steel is going to be cheaper as well.

 

[doug_scott]

Carburetor fuel pressure is 4 to 4.5 psi. Low enough that a clamp should hold. Back in the early 80s I was working in a dealership and was given a job to locate and fix oil leak on a 78 New Yorker with the 440 engine. Did a quick engine shampoo, and moved it to my work bay, 20 feet away. Hood was left up, got about half way there when all of a sudden there was a pretty big engine fire. Got it put out before it did any real damage, leaving the hood up saved the car. The engine shampoo pushed the fuel filter off the steel line, leaving the fuel filter outlet pointing straight up at the ignition coil. Whoever changed the fuel filter last decided to just swap the filter, reusing the factory spring clamps. Don't know if they got the line on far enough to get the clamp past the barb.
The worst damage was the powder from the extinguisher in the red velour pillow back seats. Took the detailer longer to clean the interior than it took to change rocker cover gaskets.

 

[Little Pete]

Update!

Got the Old 65 Monaco running tonight. Fired it up for the 1st time in months. New gas tank from Vans is installed and fits perfectly. Rebuild carb from Bowens Carb purrs like a kitten. I managed to get the lines made and fitted with the fuel filter.

The only problems I had was a slight lifter tapping, after a few minutes it went away totally.

Then a few small fixes. Of course I put a new thermostat in from AutoZone and it doesnt seem to be working. Also the thermostat housing leaks like crazy. Even though I cleaned it up really good, new gasket and a bit of black RTV it's leaking. Need to find a decent thermostat tomorrow and see why this thing isn't sealing. I hate thermostat housings. Especially on AC cars.

Then I can't seem to get the dummy pulley to pull hard enough to tighten the water pump belt up. I hate that pulley set up. I can get the adjuster screw out, get it adjusted but it just doesn't hold tight.

Oh well, few things to fix this weekend but all the hard work is finally done.

 

[Davea Lux]

Update!

Got the Old 65 Monaco running tonight. Fired it up for the 1st time in months. New gas tank from Vans is installed and fits perfectly. Rebuild carb from Bowens Carb purrs like a kitten. I managed to get the lines made and fitted with the fuel filter.

The only problems I had was a slight lifter tapping, after a few minutes it went away totally.

Then a few small fixes. Of course I put a new thermostat in from AutoZone and it doesnt seem to be working. Also the thermostat housing leaks like crazy. Even though I cleaned it up really good, new gasket and a bit of black RTV it's leaking. Need to find a decent thermostat tomorrow and see why this thing isn't sealing. I hate thermostat housings. Especially on AC cars.

Then I can't seem to get the dummy pulley to pull hard enough to tighten the water pump belt up. I hate that pulley set up. I can get the adjuster screw out, get it adjusted but it just doesn't hold tight.

Oh well, few things to fix this weekend but all the hard work is finally done.

The T-stat housing or the block has a recess cut into it to seat the thermostat, if the unit is properly seated, it should not leak.

There normally is a thick washer that holds the idler pulley, if that is missing you have a problem. The other issue might be degraded threads on either the bolt or the hole it screws into to where it is not properly engaging the idler bracket. You can usually clean that up with a tap into the hole and a die onto the bolt threads.

Dave

 

[Little Pete]

The T-stat housing or the block has a recess cut into it to seat the thermostat, if the unit is properly seated, it should not leak.

There normally is a thick washer that holds the idler pulley, if that is missing you have a problem. The other issue might be degraded threads on either the bolt or the hole it screws into to where it is not properly engaging the idler bracket. You can usually clean that up with a tap into the hole and a die onto the bolt threads.

Dave

Thanks Dave! Think the thermostat is set properly in the recess, but is leaking for someother reason. I'm going to open it tomorrow. Think the BS Duralast thermostat is junk. It didn't fit perfect and the gasket was a Fel Pro but didn't look perfect. Think they make it cut to fit many other applications.

I'll check the idler pulley tomorrow and take a few pics. Not sure what's going on?

Small things, but just frustrations. I'll get there. Almost done!

 

[doug_scott]

Sometimes RTV works against you when used with a gasket. Take the housing and use a window to see how flat it is. Glass is usually about as flat as you will find. Make sure you put the gasket on the right side of the thermostat as well. Put the thermostat into the recess, then put gasket over it. If thermostat sits above the recess it will leak as well. Make sure recess is deep enough to completely "hide" the outside edge of thermostat. If thermostat is proud of the housing it will likely leak

 

[Ripinator]

Thanks Dave! Think the thermostat is set properly in the recess, but is leaking for someother reason. I'm going to open it tomorrow. Think the BS Duralast thermostat is junk. It didn't fit perfect and the gasket was a Fel Pro but didn't look perfect. Think they make it cut to fit many other applications.

I'll check the idler pulley tomorrow and take a few pics. Not sure what's going on?

Small things, but just frustrations. I'll get there. Almost done!

As regards the idler pulley: There is supposed to be a spacer between the back of the idler pulley bracket and the block. If it ain't there, nothing will line up and / or tighten up correctly.

 

[Little Pete]

Sometimes RTV works against you when used with a gasket. Take the housing and use a window to see how flat it is. Glass is usually about as flat as you will find. Make sure you put the gasket on the right side of the thermostat as well. Put the thermostat into the recess, then put gasket over it. If thermostat sits above the recess it will leak as well. Make sure recess is deep enough to completely "hide" the outside edge of thermostat. If thermostat is proud of the housing it will likely leak

Thanks Doug. The thermostat recess is on the housing side. That is some good advice. I took it apart tonight and the housing bolts were a bit too loose. I'm sure OEM didn't use washers on the housing bolts but I might try that. I know I tightened them very well but not too tight.

Do you like the gaskets that have the peel strip adhevise on on side? The Fel Pro thermostat housing blue gaskets are not made to fit very well. So I'm going to try this one side adhesive backed one without RTV.

 

[Little Pete]

As regards the idler pulley: There is supposed to be a spacer between the back of the idler pulley bracket and the block. If it ain't there, nothing will line up and / or tighten up correctly.

I looked and it has the spacer. Going to take it off tomorrow and investigate a bit more. Thanks Rip.

 

[Little Pete]

You're probably never going to have a problem, but I do prefer something the clamp can't pass. Any non-sharp flare will do nicely. I recently bent a steel 3/8 line for the parts car... ugly, and totally effective. I used a bubble flare to retain the hose, but have done single flares in the past. I have done the straight tube as well, but my superstitious side forced me to at least double the clamps.

I know that should never have a problem, but I hate to replace steel with rubber. I have, but only as a temporary fix. If using F.I. hose, the steel is going to be cheaper as well.

Thanks cantflip. I made the lines and used the single flare with a clear Fram fuel filter in the middle with rubber hose attached the metal lines on both sides. I really was superstitious myself and seen an engine fire in my future so I went all out to incorporate metal lines like OEM.

I was actually proud of myself. Took a little patience bending the lines and making the single flare bubble without going too far but I got. I'll post some pictures tomorrow. No FUEL leaks!

 

[cantflip]

I seldom have trouble with a T-stat housing, but I've been given several butt-kickings by them in the past. All the advice has been good here, I would add... chrome ones tend to warp, and any can warp and not seal. Try flattening with a sheet of sandpaper and a flat surface, rubbing the housing on the flat paper to knock off the worst high spots only.

I have a bunch of paper gaskets (cause they were cheap)... but I have one of these in my road spares...
Thermostat Housing Gasket – Silicone Gaskets – Real Gaskets Tennessee
Based on my positive results with their valve cover gaskets, I'd bet these will seal most trouble prone T-stats... much thicker and very compliant material... just be careful to follow directions and not over torque.

BTW... another shout out to Jer @BIGBARNEYCARS for turning me onto the real gasket folks... outstanding products.

 

[Little Pete]

Well, fortunately or unfortunately now I know why the idler pulley wouldn't tighten down and hold tension. I pulled the bottom adjuster bolt out and it was shorter than the top one. These are the bolts that hold the idler pulley/spacer into the block.

Looks like they go through the water pump housing into the block. The bottom bolt hole had a damn helicoil in it with that short bolt.

Means one thing.......somebody broke the old lower bolt off in the block. The helicoil and smaller bolt just doesn't hold enough tension to hold the idler pulley tight and adjust the bracket/belt.

Now what? I really don't know. My thoughts are pull the water pump housing and see if I can get the bolt out of the block? Probably going to prove futile.

At a loss of words, hadn't expected this and pissed at myself for not finding it sooner! Had the car back together and ready for the road.

 

[Big_John]

Well, fortunately or unfortunately now I know why the idler pulley wouldn't tighten down and hold tension. I pulled the bottom adjuster bolt out and it was shorter than the top one. These are the bolts that hold the idler pulley/spacer into the block.

Looks like they go through the water pump housing into the block. The bottom bolt hole had a damn helicoil in it with that short bolt.

Means one thing.......somebody broke the old lower bolt off in the block. The helicoil and smaller bolt just doesn't hold enough tension to hold the idler pulley tight and adjust the bracket/belt.

Now what? I really don't know. My thoughts are pull the water pump housing and see if I can get the bolt out of the block? Probably going to prove futile.

At a loss of words, hadn't expected this and pissed at myself for not finding it sooner! Had the car back together and ready for the road.

The heli-coil is a good repair. Done correctly, they are stronger than the original thread. Installed literally hundreds of Heli-Coils back in my machine shop days.

The shorter bolt shouldn't be a problem as long as it's not bottoming out on the old bolt and it screws into the block at least 1 1/2 times the diameter of the bolt. If it is bottoming out, add a lock washer to it and that should solve your problem.

 

[Little Pete]

The heli-coil is a good repair. Done correctly, they are stronger than the original thread. Installed literally hundreds of Heli-Coils back in my machine shop days.

The shorter bolt shouldn't be a problem as long as it's not bottoming out on the old bolt and it screws into the block at least 1 1/2 times the diameter of the bolt. If it is bottoming out, add a lock washer to it and that should solve your problem.

Thanks Big_John. The helicoil pulled out easily by hand. Seen the threads on the smaller bolt were stripped as well. May have been a good fix once upon a time but time has not been friendly. The bolt was the correct size for the helicoil and wasn't too long hitting the block. Though also in this case it makes me wonder about the water pump housing. That bolt is suppose to hold the housing tight to the block with the other housing bolts as well. The helicoil doesn't help with that either.

Though the helicoil only set into the water pump housing. I thought helicoil bit into the hole and you had to thread it in? This seemed like it was just sitting in there.

Id hate to pull this car back apart. If another helicoil would solve my issue is give it a try.

Just don't have much experience installing them.

 

[Big_John]

Thanks Big_John. The helicoil pulled out easily by hand. Seen the threads on the smaller bolt were stripped as well. May have been a good fix once upon a time but time has not been friendly. The bolt was the correct size for the helicoil and wasn't too long hitting the block. Though also in this case it makes me wonder about the water pump housing. That bolt is suppose to hold the housing tight to the block with the other housing bolts as well. The helicoil doesn't help with that either.

Though the helicoil only set into the water pump housing. I thought helicoil bit into the hole and you had to thread it in? This seemed like it was just sitting in there.

Id hate to pull this car back apart. If another helicoil would solve my issue is give it a try.

Just don't have much experience installing them.

The Heli-Coil shouldn't have pulled out. Once they are in, they don't bite in, but the spring pressure holds them in place. I've pulled them out, but you have to work at it.

That makes me wonder if the Heli-Coil was installed right. Geez... You'd really have to look at what you have there. You might be able to install a new Heli-Coil, I'd give it a try rather than messing too much with the block.