Bondo

Samplingman

Old Man with a Hat
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I’m starting to do the mud work on the ‘70 vert. Anyone have any preference/recommendation on fillers and finish glazing? I’ll be top coating with BASF two stage enamel. The last time I bought filler was about 30 years ago, not sure if much has changed. Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
Lay your mud. Sand it. Prime it. Lightly spray with can of cheap black paint. Block it. Any where you see black paint is you high and low spots and repeat the proces. For last blocking after your satisfied with body work use a quality bondo filler primer. If you do this, this will be your end result. After paint and clear use 1500 grit, 3000 grit and last 4000 grit. Compound buff first and then polish buff after that. I'm sure you'll get a lot of opinions but my results speak for themselves. Good luck and have fun. O yeah don't forget to seal it or in a couple years the body work shrinkage will show.

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Thanks for all the replies, I’ll be looking into Evercoat.

@live4theking, I actually use All Metal to work into the welds after my patch work. Does a good job of sealing any remaining pin holes.

@herbdog, beautiful car, nice work! Did you use any type of glazing putty on top of the mud? Back in the day we used to use
something called Nitrostan to fill in deep scratches in the bondo, then prime and block. I think it was taken off the market, the fumes were very unhealthy.
 
Thanks for all the replies, I’ll be looking into Evercoat.

@live4theking, I actually use All Metal to work into the welds after my patch work. Does a good job of sealing any remaining pin holes.

@herbdog, beautiful car, nice work! Did you use any type of glazing putty on top of the mud? Back in the day we used to use
something called Nitrostan to fill in deep scratches in the bondo, then prime and block. I think it was taken off the market, the fumes were very unhealthy.
No glaze putty. Used a high build primer. Fills in most hair line scratches and gives a little build for final blocking. The whole car was done in Omni brand from Arnold's. Little less expensive but lays nice and you can't tell quality difference from the more expensive brands and prep work makes the paint . Another brand I've used is Nason. I've had good luck with it too.
 
The guy that did some small repairs for me a few years ago said he used "all metal", but i couldn't tell you any specifics.
All metal is similar to bondo, except rather than talc, they use fine aluminum dust. It's 2 or three times the price of plastic filler and you definitely don't want to apply any excess, it's next to impossible to sand.
 
he used "all metal"
Kind of threw me for a loop as I used to ride bikes with a guy that was the 'Lead Man' for a Rolls Royce dealer, very old school 50/60's Hot Rod chop and channel guy, very famous for his 50's flamed out chopped and channeled Merc. He had to have a Prism(?) on his dash so he could see when the stop light changed at intersections. He also had a chopped early 60's Ranchero(?) no it's not a Ranchero I just did a googly googly that's based on the Falcon, it was the van with a open pickup back type whatever that was called.
He built himself a nice old Panhead chopper and when we'd get pulled over he was the only one that would get hassled by the pig.

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x2 on the Evercoat "rage". It sands really nice.

Rough up the metal with like 40 grit to get a good grip on the filler. Epoxies like mechanical bonds.

Besides the usual body tools, get yourself a cheese grater file to take the top off and rough contour, as soon as it hardens enough. This makes sanding a lot easier.

A pumice block is good for blocking contoured areas. Get a big brick of it and saw it into 3x4 long planks.
 
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