3175375
Senior Member
The guys who wouldn’t even ride in the car - I bet they would be surprised to learn about the ‘Jesus nut’ on many helicopters. Lol
Brake drum puller tool recommendations? 66 newport
- Thread starter newport_66
- Start date
As you are undoubtedly aware by now, you don't need a puller to remove the rear brake drums on a factory 1966 rear axle.
However, if some day you should find yourself in a circumstance where you own a 64 and earlier MOPAR you WILL absolutely need a puller for the rear drums, and if you know what you are doing it will cause no damage at all. Here's the secret: Take the castle nut that you removed from the axle and mount it backwards so that it just comes in line with the edge of the axle. That way it provides support to the axle shaft and prevents the tool from digging in and chipping off an end piece of the axle. I've done this dozens of times and never damaged an axle. Personally, I would not use heat.
However, if some day you should find yourself in a circumstance where you own a 64 and earlier MOPAR you WILL absolutely need a puller for the rear drums, and if you know what you are doing it will cause no damage at all. Here's the secret: Take the castle nut that you removed from the axle and mount it backwards so that it just comes in line with the edge of the axle. That way it provides support to the axle shaft and prevents the tool from digging in and chipping off an end piece of the axle. I've done this dozens of times and never damaged an axle. Personally, I would not use heat.
newport_66
New Member
Ok boys here it is thanks for the help.
I'll be taking the back part off tomorrow, its late don't want to piss off the neighbors and seems to me those 4 bolts need to be hammered out.
Shoes and drums were cracked, wavy and had deep grooves which explains the braking performance.
I'll be taking the back part off tomorrow, its late don't want to piss off the neighbors and seems to me those 4 bolts need to be hammered out.
Shoes and drums were cracked, wavy and had deep grooves which explains the braking performance.
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newport_66
New Member
Don't even know what I'm looking at here but it's disgusting so thought I'd post it for you all to look at.
My guess, crystalized oils and dirt maybe.
My guess, crystalized oils and dirt maybe.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Fifty years of road grime.
Nothing that a little over greasing or blown out ball joint seals over the years. Plus with the wheels on its a little difficult to get straight on the grease zero. Half of what you pump sits there collecting dirt and road grime.
STOP and THINK before you do that!
The two lower bolts that hold the backing plates to the spindle ALSO hold the lower ball joint to the spindle. The lower ball joint is attached to the lower control arm which is sprung by the torsion bar.
The ONLY ways that you can take this apart are to either release the torsion bar tension OR the simple way is to place a jack stand under the lower control arm so it supports the weight of the car.
What I'm trying to do here is not get you KILLED or hurt when you knock the lower bolts out and the lower control arm releases VIOLENTLY from the torsion bar tension.
Better yet... Why do you need to remove the backing plate?? It doesn't look like you are doing some 100 point resto... Just replacing front brakes. That backing plate doesn't need to come off.
3175375
Senior Member
I discovered the backing plate being in the circuit for keeping the spindle and lower arm when I replaced the wheel cylinder. I just loosened the 2 lower bolts enough to tilt the backing plate and remove and install the wheel cylinder.
Agreed with @Big_John - don’t remove it, without preparing accordingly!!!
If the wheel cylinder bolts are hard to get to then grind down a wrench so it fits in there. You must remove the hose from the cylinder first To remove the wheel cylinder.
Taking off the backing plate is not something to do for the fun of it, leave it alone.
Taking off the backing plate is not something to do for the fun of it, leave it alone.
newport_66
New Member
Reason for removing the backing plate is because it's required for installing the disc conversion kit. At least I think it is.
I could be wrong. I did find this video and he takes the backing plate off
So it seems like I want to support the control arm while knocking out those bolts? I don't know if it matters but I have the whole front lifted, the front of the car is on jack stands.
1. Put a jack under the control arm
2. Hold on to the backing plate while lightly hammering the bolts out
Then do front conversion stuff:
3. Reinstall the control arm / two lower bolts
4. The rest of brake conversion...
newport_66
New Member
This is the kit that's going on the car. Looks pretty much the same as the wilwood from the video so i'm thinking the backing plate NEEDS to come off.
Leed Brakes FC2003-8405 LEED Brakes Front Disc Brake Conversion Kits | Summit Racing
Leed Brakes FC2003-8405 LEED Brakes Front Disc Brake Conversion Kits | Summit Racing
Yes, a jack under the control arm will work. What you want is not having that lower control arm spring down from the spring action of the torsion bar. I can't stress enough that done wrong, you can get hurt.
The bolt will pretty much slide out once the tension is off.
Yes, to put the Leeds **** on (and I'm being nice) the backing plate will have to come off.
I've never used that kit, so everything is what I've read and seen. A lot of what I've read on that conversion kit is it's not good quality parts and it's a "one size fits all" as far as calipers and rotors. Then the GM based power booster is a PITA to get the pedal linkage right and there are modifications needed to the push rod and firewall. In other words, they don't fit a c-body out of the box.
A lot of us use the stock drum brakes, emphasis on using good parts, and everything is good. If I wanted to do a disc conversion, I would do the conversion using (later) stock Mopar parts like many others have done. Rick Ehrenberg documented this conversion many years ago and you end up with properly sized system that works well.
Are you really up for this? Especially with this kit? This is going to be more than than a bolt on project. There isn't going to be a lot of help here and from what I read, Leeds isn't much help either.
Thread on the Leeds kit
Leed Brakes kit - brake booster
Read post #13 especially.
Disc Brake vs Drum Brake Pedal
Leed Brakes kit - brake booster
Read post #13 especially.
Disc Brake vs Drum Brake Pedal
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
I've said it to everyone who wants disc brakes on these old cars, time to say it again.
The factory drum brakes work just fine, if you set them up correctly.
I drive a car with less than ideal drum brakes, and have never had any issues, while tailgating in heavy traffic, and with at least one panic stop.
Just follow the factory service manual, and you'll be fine.
If you have a single circuit master cylinder, I recommend swapping that out to a '67 or newer master as soon as you can.
The factory drum brakes work just fine, if you set them up correctly.
I drive a car with less than ideal drum brakes, and have never had any issues, while tailgating in heavy traffic, and with at least one panic stop.
Just follow the factory service manual, and you'll be fine.
If you have a single circuit master cylinder, I recommend swapping that out to a '67 or newer master as soon as you can.
newport_66
New Member
Nope too late to return it. But i'll consider just buying new drum brake parts then swaping the master in the future instead.
Would be quicker, honestly just want to drive the car already.
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newport_66
New Member
Thought this kit would be quick since I thought it was specific to my Newport guess I fell victim to summit racing advertising I liked the idea of all shiny new parts.
The poor quality from "one size fits all" yeah I don't usually buy universal things in general. Makes sense now why it says 66 mustang on one of the box labels! That car is lighter too.. concerning.
... We'll as much as I agree, If I did install them honestly I'm sure they will do the job. After all its not going to be driven hard just a garaged once a month grocery-getter weekend car. What are the pads going to disintegrate? Easy enough to replace..
newport_66
New Member
And after reading that thread the only hard part seems like the pedal linkage which maybe a PITA but I wouldn't complain
newport_66
New Member
Are you saying any 67 or newer mopar dodge, chrysler or plymouth that looks like this would work?
newport_66
New Member
WELL WELL actually looks like the package delivered 67 days ago so I can actually return them. Summit's return policy is looking promising too.
I'll take my money back not worth the pain just want to get the car running nice so I can drive the thing.
I'll take my money back not worth the pain just want to get the car running nice so I can drive the thing.
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