Brake drum puller tool recommendations? 66 newport

[newport_66]

Just bought a bunch brake stuff. Brake conversion kit and new brake drum parts to rebuild the rears.

So I will be working on the brakes soon, anyone have recommendations for an inexpensive tool that fits the car?

I was looking at something like this not sure if it fits.
Amazon product ASIN B012P0QV5K

 

[Lefty71]

Those are used as a hub puller on '64 and earlier cars. The ones that have the nut and cotter key at the axle end. '65 and up Mopars did not use that style, AFAIK.

On the later cars like yours, the drum is not normally frozen, just back off the brake adjustment fully and you can usually work the drum right off. You may need a slide puller if you need to actually remove the axle, but thats not done just for brake work.

 

[commando1]

Don't waste your money on that tool.
Back off the self adjusters and just pull the drum off.
More than likely, a beating on the drum with a hammer will be necessary to help it off.

 

[Big_John]

As said, you don't need (or want) that puller. As said it's used on '64 and earlier cars and then just on the rear brakes, not the front.

For the rears, if it won't come right off, back off the adjusters first and pull the drum. If it's stuck on the center of the axle, a little heat on the drum right around the center will do wonders.

For the front, it's a little more involved and I suggest you read through the FSM first. Again, back off the adjusters (if needed) and then remove the dust cap in the center. Under that you'll see the spindle nut with a cotter pin. Remove the cotter pin, the crowned doo-hickey and the spindle nut. Then remove the washer and then the bearing. It should just about fall off.

When putting the front back together, clean and repack both bearings and install a new inner seal.

Again, I suggest reading the Factory service manual before pulling the front brakes apart. It's not hard, just have to follow the procedure.

Download a FSM here if you don't have one. MyMopar

 

[newport_66]

Those are used as a hub puller on '64 and earlier cars. The ones that have the nut and cotter key at the axle end. '65 and up Mopars did not use that style, AFAIK.

On the later cars like yours, the drum is not normally frozen, just back off the brake adjustment fully and you can usually work the drum right off. You may need a slide puller if you need to actually remove the axle, but thats not done just for brake work.

Okay i'll try it out without the tool for now I guess. Appreciate the insight!

 

[413]

Whaddya mean “for now”. That tool will try to break the axle flange into pieces, there is nothing that tool can help you with on a 1966 rear axle.

The lug studs and flange are one piece, they don’t come apart. That tool won’t be pulling the drum, it doesn’t attach To the drum on your car.

 

[Lefty71]

If you pull your back tire and you're seeing this, it's the older type that uses that tool;

You should see this type on your '66 (or any '65 and later). Note the pic is after drum removal;

 

[DCMC]

I had s 64 300k and put a drum puller on it, mushrooming the end of the spindle axle. Called my older brother and he told me pop always yelled at him for doing this but take the 20lb brass Victory hammer and hot the threaded shaft, just stand to the side.

 

[Just Carbs]

The tapered hub/drum puller goes on, then tight. Then the puller gets the hammer. Axle gets pulled back out before each blow.
No puller? Threads and nut both get messed up.

 

[Big_John]

I had s 64 300k and put a drum puller on it, mushrooming the end of the spindle axle. Called my older brother and he told me pop always yelled at him for doing this but take the 20lb brass Victory hammer and hot the threaded shaft, just stand to the side.

The tapered hub/drum puller goes on, then tight. Then the puller gets the hammer. Axle gets pulled back out before each blow.
No puller? Threads and nut both get messed up.

Umm... I think you guys are making things more confusing rather than helping.

The OP has a '66 Chrysler. No tapered hub, no need for a puller.

The OP was thinking he needed one and obviously he doesn't.

 

[Just Carbs]

Right.
I was talking about don't hit the "tapered" stuff with a hammer.
No, don't hit the tapered end stuff on the threads with a hammer as was suggested. If you have tapered stuff.
Folks will read that and ruin the stuff.

 

[Snotty]

I don't have pictures, but I once had a car that a previous owner left a set of shoes on so long that the rivets cut valleys into the drum. He did eventually replace those. However, as they wore, the valleys formed on the new shoes, creating "fingers" that held the drum in place when I tried to remove it. Was very difficult! I turned the adjusters all the way in and whacked that drum with a hammer and chisel. They eventually separated.

Good luck!

 

[SGT FURY]

Not to ad confusion to OP.
Tapered axle puller will work on front drums of most cars.
I keep one in my tow vehicle at all times. With as many frozen drum cars I’ve towed over the years.

 

[HWYCRZR]

After backing off make sure you don’t have the one-way spring washers on a couple of the studs. New they had them to hold the drum in-place until the tires were installed and if the brakes had been properly replaced in the past they were likely re-installed.

 

[newport_66]

How are my pads looking! haha

 

[Sixpactogo]

Better question..........How are your drums looking?

 

[mobileparts]

There’s part of the brake drum —- about 18 “ under the rear axle in the picture ( L O L ) ….

 

[Just Carbs]

How are my pads looking! haha


View attachment 627878

Nice and shiny. With an exceptionally even wear pattern.

 

[newport_66]

There’s part of the brake drum —- about 18 “ under the rear axle in the picture ( L O L ) ….

You should have seen it when we took it off the pads just crumbled off into pieces! Looked like cardboard paper

 

[newport_66]

Had some trouble with the passenger side e-brake cable, it does not have enough slack. It causes the shoes to push out a little so I cant get the drum on.

Adjuster thing is all the way in, e-brake disengaged and the e-brake cable slack is fine on the driver side.

Anyone else have this issue? Is there a way to adjust the slack on the e-brake cable?