69mopar man
Member
My 69 owners manual says use only brass base bulbs , however I can’t find any? Will it hurt to use todays cheap bulbs?
I would use De-Oxit to prevent this. It's purpose is to prevent the reaction of dissimilar metals.It's the dissimilar metals thing, and for whatever reason, compared to brass base bulbs the aluminum base bulbs react very poorly over time and corrode themselves into a big non-conductive hard to remove mess.
I am not arguing the dissimilar metal thing but there is another difference between Edison bulbs and the new Led type besides the increased amount of light only , it is their efficiency which equates to much lower operating temperatures which may make the dissimilar metal thing much less of an issue or ideally a non issue. I do not know.Now no one told me about the dissimilar metal thing, so I hope I don’t regret it in the long run, but that is a problem I will have to tackle later.
NoAlOx, DeOxit and such last a good long time, in stable environments. I reckon one of these anti-redux dopants would help preserve one's light sockets from Al->Fe bonding. I might avail myself of the stuff, now that I think about this, as I've gone to LED bulbs all over. The Desert is Kind, but monsoons aren't. I might recommend NoAlOx as the first choice for this purpose, as its designed to preserve houses from those nasty Al+Cu fires. My Sainted Mother lives in such a house, built in 1967. Yeah, NoAlOx is probably the best bet here....That's a good suggestion... but how long lasting is the application of DeOxit?
I know it eliminates existing corrosion and does add some corrosion protection, but I don't know how long lasting it is.
One thing about LEDS that I have not fully understood is that with all of their electrical conversion efficiencies, the headlight bulbs have little fans in them to keep the bulbs cool. And the signal light bulbs and such also produce as much heat as an incandescent bulb does, from what I've found out. Plus, those "resistor loads" (to prevent hyper-flash) can also get that hot, too. FWIW.
Perhaps, some day, those mysteries will be revealed?
CBODY67
I am not arguing the dissimilar metal thing but there is another difference between Edison bulbs and the new Led type besides the increased amount of light only , it is their efficiency which equates to much lower operating temperatures which may make the dissimilar metal thing much less of an issue or ideally a non issue. I do not know.
I would use De-Oxit to prevent this. It's purpose is to prevent the reaction of dissimilar metals.
I would think in a closed up situation like a bulb socket that it would last for sometime. I put it in my bulkhead connector and when I took that apart a couple of years later it was like I put it in there 5 minutes ago. It's about the consistency of vasoline.That's a good suggestion... but how long lasting is the application of DeOxit?
I know it eliminates existing corrosion and does add some corrosion protection, but I don't know how long lasting it is.
I believe that it will work in both situations. It's always key to start with as clean of a connection as possible. Where I work we use it as preventive. On my old C I've used it for both purposes.Is De-Oxit just a preventative or will it remove some of the Al2O3 from an already partly compromised socket? I've only used NoAlOx on wire and terminations, though if I SEE any sings of redux in my sockets, I'll sure as **** use it then.