Brake pedal height

[customsportsman]

Greetings,
I just picked up a 1969 Fury convertible. I am currently working on getting the bugs out of it. One item I am not happy about is the workmanship someone did converting the front brakes to disc. I have figured out that whomever did this conversion used an SSBC brake kit and Leed power booster and Master cylinder. I have to re-do the brake lines, and the brake pedal is way too high. This height is downright dangerous. Could someone please measure their floor-to-pedal height? See attached photos.

Thanks,
Tim in Detroit

 

[Knebel]

Unhook the return spring and see if that fixes it!

 

[Welder guy]

Here’s a pic of my brake pedal in my 69 Sport Fury convertible. It looks to be 6” to the outside of the pedal , 5 1/2” to the inside edge of the stainless trim around the pedal rubber. It’s comfortable to drive.

 

[Welder guy]

I can understand now why yours is uncomfortable and probably dangerous to use. You’d only be a few inches away from the metal dash. You’re on the right track Looking into that issue.

 

[HOT FURY]

Greetings,
I just picked up a 1969 Fury convertible. I am currently working on getting the bugs out of it. One item I am not happy about is the workmanship someone did converting the front brakes to disc. I have figured out that whomever did this conversion used an SSBC brake kit and Leed power booster and Master cylinder. I have to re-do the brake lines, and the brake pedal is way too high. This height is downright dangerous. Could someone please measure their floor-to-pedal height? See attached photos.

Thanks,
Tim in Detroit

View attachment 583688

View attachment 583689

Contact Leed brakes, they have a 4th rod for mopar kits that doesn't come in the kits and they say is rarely used. It's the shorter shaft that goes from the pedal to the booster push rod that you need. The master cylinder/booster kits for mopar come with the 3 most commonly used length rods but not the shortest one which is about 5/8" shorter placing your brake pedal resting height right about the same as the gas pedal. I unfortunately found this out the hard way when installing my kit and my pedal came out looking just like yours with the shortest length rod that came in the kit. Unfortunately you will have to unbolt the the booster from the firewall to install this rod where it connects to the booster push rod. You will also likely have to adjust the brake light switch behind the pedal unless you wire in a pressure switch on the front brake line coming off the master cylinder like I did to eliminate the spring loaded manual switch. PM me if you need further info

 

[customsportsman]

Thanks all for the replies. I have contacted Lee's Brakes. They are sending me the shortest three rods, and I will report back to all of you with the results.

 

[Knebel]

Ah I see, I had something similar when converted to disc. I had to shorten the rodto get the pedal where I want it!

 

[fury fan]

Do you know if this car originally had manual brakes?
If it did, the difference in the brake rod that was mentioned will have a bigger difference in brake pedal height.

All the booster/MC pushrods must exit the firewall at the same location regardless of PB or MB, disc or drum.
So, to *reduce* the leverage on the power brake pedal (because the booster makes the leverage) the bracketry generally is taller, to move the pivot point higher, further away from the pushrod location, which reduces pedal leverage.
The manual brakes have the pivot point lower, noticeably closer to the pushrod location.
It's analogous to moving the pivot in a teeter-totter.

So -
Small 'errors' in pushrod length make a lot bigger difference in pedal height on a manual pedal than a power pedal. Imagine pushing a teeter-totter upward 1" close to the pivot, vs pushing it at the end.

All of this applies to C-bodies as I know it. My limited knowledge of the smaller cars is that some have extra bracketry to make the car have power brakes.
There was also a field-retrofit for C-bodies that used extra bracketry, to eliminate the need to change the pedal assembly.


I'm not saying you have a problem with the pedal, but as the car is new to you and you are having brake problems (based on your other thread) I would verify the pedal.
I put a brake booster on a power pedal ~30 years ago , and it makes for a really mushy pedal - but you need to verify *everything* in your situation.