Brake question

[kenmdale]

I have a brake question I was hoping someone could help me with. The previous owner had some brake work done, but I am having a hard time dating the components.
I realize that the master cylinder is for a power drum/drum setup, and I will be changing that. The booster is a Midland Ross booster for a drum/drum setup. I'm not sure if I can keep the booster for my disc/drum setup.
The other question is to date the calipers on the front wheels. In the pictures there are some numbers on the caliper "3481 957" with the Chrysler logo. Am I correct in guessing that the calipers are Kelsey Hayes and the first two numbers are from a 1974 Mopar
There is a lot of information on the internet ,but a lot of it seems to be conflicting

The car is a 1966 Plymouth Sport Fury


ury

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Those are 70-72 disc brakes. 73 basically the same with a unicast rotor instead of the 2 piece, spindle is different.

 

[kenmdale]

If I was looking for a master cylinder ,would I use the years 70 to 72 for referrence

 

[commando1]

Those are 70-72 disc brakes.

Wow. Very good, Dave. You impress me once again...

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Yes, and get a booster to match because there is a runout issue with the old drum brake booster for a original single pot m/c, I think.

 

[SF-66TC]

Yes, you will need to get a disc/drum master. As for the single diaphragm booster, I'M USING the drum/drum Midland Ross Booster (it was a single circuit mc) for my disc/drum setup and it works perfectly fine.

Before I did my front disc conversion I was only going to change my single master to a dual for my drum brakes. I sent my booster to Booster Dewey to get rebuilt and after I received it back I decided to do the disc conversion. I know it's said that a "dual diaphragm" booster would be needed for front disc brakes, but after conferring with a couple sources I was told it wasn't necessary. Since I already had my old booster rebuilt I decided to give it a try rather than spend more $$ getting a dual diaphragm one. I was also told a prop valve would NOT be necessary simply due to the fact the factory did not use a prop valve for front disc brakes. Just for my own satisfaction I went ahead and installed a Wildwood Mopar prop valve for the rear drums line.

Pictured is a '73 spindle setup with Kelsey Hayes Calipers, dual circuit disc/drum master and Wildwood Mopar Prop Valve.

 

[kenmdale]

thank You for the help

 

[70bigblockdodge]

The adjustable proportioning valve is not a bad idea for any install and or upgrade

 

[65sporty]

Anytime you switch from drum/drum to disc/drum you have to use some sort of proportioning valve, either a factory style or a adjustable

 

[kenmdale]

This is the one I am using now

 

[1970cat]

the date codes won't do you much good. more than likely the parts were remanufactured so the dates would not correspond to anything.

 

[polarus]

Damn you guys are good.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Do you know what that combo valve/switch is from. If it is from some c body it should be fine, but if from a a body it might not be correct enough to work properly, some panic stops from a decent speed might be a good idea before you need them.

 

[SF-66TC]

View attachment 62282This is the one I am using now

Kenmdale: I believe what you have there is nothing more than a distribution block for the front & rear brake lines. The small nipple in the middle of the two incoming lines from the master cylinder is the "idiot light" switch that turns on when it senses a pressure differential between the front and rear. There's no wire connected to it so I'm assuming it's not doing you any good anyway. It's really useless as by the time the light comes on, you would have already known what happened.

Re: Prop Valves - I believe the factory did not install a proportioning valve on front disc brake cars from '66-'68 which tells me they obviously didn't feel their cars needed one. However, for additional safety reasons you may want to install one in-line to the rear brakes. You can still use the existing "T" you have there, just add a prop valve between the master cylinders (rear brake port - front pod/smaller reservoir) directly to the rear brake line.

(1) remove the "IN" rear brake line from the MC to the "T" and plug the "T"
(2) remove the "OUT" rear brake line from the rear of the "T" (going to the rear brakes) and plug the "T"
(3) connect the "IN" rear brake line from the MC previously removed in step 1. and connect to the "IN" port of the prop valve
(4) connect the "OUT" rear brake line removed in steop 2. to the "OUT" port of the prop valve.

YOU WILL OF COURSE NEED TO REPLACE YOUR DRUM/DRUM MASTER CYLINDER WITH A DISC/DRUM MASTER.

I don't know if the hard brake line fittings from your drum/drum master will fit the disc/drum master. If not you will need to re-plumb the lines with correct fittings. I highly suggest the ones from Richard Ehrenberg and can be found on ebay at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Mopar-Dual-Master-Cylinder-Swap-Brake-Fitting-Kit-Plymouth-Dodge-Chrysler-/221914100820?hash=item33ab1c7454:g:uxcAAOxy5jxScGND&vxp=mtr

 

[70bigblockdodge]

You can get a nice one off of Rock Auto for 71-72 disc brake car, I put one of these on my Challenger as a nice upgrade for a higher pedal, it has worked well for 3 years so far.

 

[Snotty]

I converted my Newport from drums to disks. I did swap to a correct MC, but I kept the original booster and have had no problems with it. Been over 8 years now.

I pulled a proportioning valve from a disk-brake '70 New Yorker. Works great.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I converted my Newport from drums to disks. I did swap to a correct MC, but I kept the original booster and have had no problems with it. Been over 8 years now.

I pulled a proportioning valve from a disk-brake '70 New Yorker. Works great.

I think okay to keep booster on a dual system car. His is originally a single circuit car. I am not 100% on that so don't go completely on my word.

 

[saylor]

as a dude that has done this conversion with ECI stuff:
you can use the stock booster.
you need a disc/drum MC
that stock prop valve will probably work - on my 68 fury i used what was there stock.
i did not add any additional prop valves or anything else beyond only and just using the stock prop valve. i believe it is a combo valve. at least in 68.

- saylor

 

[kenmdale]

I can not get any information from the last owner as to what he switched and from what years the parts are from. I believe it was a single circuit manual drum/drum, there is no wire going to that area for the switch, and no brake warning light inside. Could a wire be added from my valve switch to my parking brake light on the inside
I am still uncertain as to what I have ,is it a distribution block or a proportioning valve. If it is just a distribution block then I could add a proportioning valve. If it is already a proportioning valve ,then I will just add the disc/drum master cylinder

Does a proportioning valve go after the distribution block or before it

 

[SF-66TC]

I can not get any information from the last owner as to what he switched and from what years the parts are from. I believe it was a single circuit manual drum/drum, there is no wire going to that area for the switch, and no brake warning light inside. Could a wire be added from my valve switch to my parking brake light on the inside
I am still uncertain as to what I have ,is it a distribution block or a proportioning valve. If it is just a distribution block then I could add a proportioning valve. If it is already a proportioning valve ,then I will just add the disc/drum master cylinder

Does a proportioning valve go after the distribution block or before it

1. Re-read my two posts in this thead -
2. Keep your existing booster
3. Replace that drum/drum master with a disc/drum master
4. From the photo what you have is simply a distribution block with the useless warning light
5. Add a prop valve as I've explained in my post -

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=1359251&ukey_product=10744200

http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL48...6163&sr=8-1&keywords=allstar+proportion+valve

6. Forget about the wiring the warning light switch - it's useless
7. DONE!