Brakes

[Clover]

Firstly, power boosters are readily available through Rockauto as direct purchase or rebuild.
Secondly, new rotors too are readily available through Rockauto for about $50 ea.
Thirdly, ALL 65 to 73 lower ball joints are the same and attach to the bottom side of the spindle, EXCEPT Imperial maybe. I am not including the 67-68 disk spindles in this conversation because they are rare and hard to come by.
As for the 74-78 spindles, the ball joints are a round type same as found in the upper control arm, but are mounted in the lower control arm, there is no lower ball joint attached to the spindle.

Ive just now checked Rock Auto and they only have the single-diaphragm booster which doesn’t fit for the early conversion. I’ve ordered a set of the rotors and we’ll soon see if they are correct. Also, just one source or so is not considered “commonly available” in my book. And it’s not even true for the tandem booster needed. I still find no source whatsoever. Please prove me wrong, as I need one for a customer!

 

[Clover]

ALL 65 to 73 lower ball joints are the same and attach to the bottom side of the spindle, EXCEPT Imperial. (And ‘66-68 discs.)

FIFY

 

[Clover]

And yes Rock Auto (and others) can rebuild your core. That was my point, initially.

 

[Big_John]

Power Brake Booster Exchange | Providing Parts for Classic Cars

 

[CBODY67]

Now he

I must disagree, sir. Any Formal owner would say their HVAC blows like it has bronchial asthma.

You mean it's worse than our '72 Newport 4dr sedan or my '70 Monaco, in the "air delivery" area of things? Both cars are worse in that area than our '66 Newport was.

The "What's New" section of the '74 Order Guide indicated the additional air flow vents in the dash and how much MORE air they'd flow. When I got my '70 Monaco, I could tell it wasn't moving as much air as quickly as the '66 Newport did. I asked my friend at a Dodge dealer parts department about any "fixes". He kind of shook his head and said some had tried to change the resistance values in the blower motor resistor to get more fan speed, with little benefit. The '70 was tolerable as it has a smaller interior volume (with the formal rear glass) than the '72 Newport did with its larger interior volume. Although the '66 is a 6-Window Town Sedan.

One observed issue with older vehicles is that where there is a foam "gasket" around the interior of one plastic duct that another plastic duct fits into, with age, that foam will deteriorate and air flow is lost "in the gaps". Be that as it may.

CBODY67

 

[Clover]

Having driven both lately, I’d say the formal is a marginal improvement over the fusie. However, they are both lackluster.

 

[cantflip]

I am sure this has been asked .
What spindles can i use to put disk on my 66 fury wagon.

Hey... good to see you working on an Adult Sized car again...

For those who have forgotten... I bought my "parts car" from this member
what a good day

Get a Scare bird kit. Uses your old spindles, a Ford full size rotor, and calipers and pads from a 90s Dodge ram. The calipers are designed to stop a 6000# empty pick up truck, they can handle your 4000# Plymouth.

This is probably the quickest, and easiest solution.

Or you could work on piecing together a system. Watch the booster, single vs dual diaphragm... there will be a pressure difference. IDK how well engineered the Scare Bird kit is... IMO mix and match brakes are begging for trouble, but you know enough to find your way into something that should function well.

Make sure the brakes can lock in a hard/panic stop... my best "seat of the pants" test for effectiveness.

Welcome back

 

[66furywagon]

Hey... good to see you working on an Adult Sized car again...

For those who have forgotten... I bought my "parts car" from this member
what a good day


This is probably the quickest, and easiest solution.

Or you could work on piecing together a system. Watch the booster, single vs dual diaphragm... there will be a pressure difference. IDK how well engineered the Scare Bird kit is... IMO mix and match brakes are begging for trouble, but you know enough to find your way into something that should function well.

Make sure the brakes can lock in a hard/panic stop... my best "seat of the pants" test for effectiveness.

Welcome back

how are u u still have the Yorker

 

[cantflip]

how are u u still have the Yorker

Yep... she's stuck in the driveway basking in the FL sun... hasn't helped the paint much...

Fun times in FumBuck...

 

[commando1]

FWIW, the tattoo parlor removed the PIE from the sign.
No mo' pie.

 

[Clover]

FWIW, the tattoo parlor removed the PIE from the sign.
No mo' pie.

But they still have tatoos ON pie.

 

[Gerald Morris]

.... I said it in your other post, but the factory drum setup works great when you set it up correctly. Stops plenty fast when you need to. It's not Ferrari caliber, but what setup for reasonable money will be? .... Good luck to you on your stopping issues!

AMEN! This is EXACTLY why I stick with my mechanical drum brake setup! After replacing everything but the actual hubs, and backing plates on Mathilda's front, she stops very smart even when cruising along the interstate, as I've recently verified. I don't need the extra "throw" requiring the booster all disc brakes I've ever seen require, so I don't have to rely on engine vacuum, just my muscle to stop well. God be thanked I still have that.

One can easily enough go to a 3 inch drum setup on the front for extra fricative surface area if it is really needed. I see MORE 3 inch drums on the market now than the stock 2.75 inch ones I recently replaced.

Save your money, rebuild the drum setup and avoid going over 100 mph if you can help it.

 

[Clover]

AMEN! This is EXACTLY why I stick with my mechanical drum brake setup! After replacing everything but the actual hubs, and backing plates on Mathilda's front, she stops very smart even when cruising along the interstate, as I've recently verified. I don't need the extra "throw" requiring the booster all disc brakes I've ever seen require, so I don't have to rely on engine vacuum, just my muscle to stop well. God be thanked I still have that.

One can easily enough go to a 3 inch drum setup on the front for extra fricative surface area if it is really needed. I see MORE 3 inch drums on the market now than the stock 2.75 inch ones I recently replaced.

Save your money, rebuild the drum setup and avoid going over 100 mph if you can help it.

In general I agree. I’ll be keeping the drums on my GTX. However, after a couple hard stops, you better not need to do it again for awhile. This is not the case with discs.

 

[Clover]

I got the Rock rotors and they will fit ‘72. The hub OD is the same size as a ‘73 and up rotor.

 

[66furywagon]

Got the disc brake set up for the fury

 

[Clover]

Got the disc brake set up for the fury

View attachment 211896

Cool! Which spindles?

 

[66furywagon]

71 Chrysler new yorker

 

[Clover]

71 Chrysler new yorker

Cool. Rock has rotors that will work. As I said, the hub OD is bigger than the OEM but shouldn’t be a problem with aftermarket 15” wheels.

 

[Clover]

Are you using the ‘71 booster and combo valve?

 

[66furywagon]

Are you using the ‘71 booster and combo valve?

Will u 71 master cylinder and valve