C-bodies in France.

[vdk2010]

Looks good! But personally, I would grind the rusty parts to bare metal and remove all rust before treating the areas with the rustol. Looking forward to see more pics!

 

[Xavi3r]

hi !

I choose no to grind to bare metal. I took out the surface rust and put rustol on it. but soaked.
Next day I put the tar plates. It won't move I think.



In fact I am quite in a hurry, the car must be ready for my wedding this winter.

I started by the rear carpet part.
i did some mistakes but it is ok for me. You can see an awful cut in front of the air conduct under the bench.
i'll arrange this next week.



and the front. I only put 1 seat back, i was a bit late.
The radio holder was a hell to screw back in place.


I have no overall pic, it wa too dark..

I did some small repairs too :
replaced my ignition switch and put back in place. The car stars well.
repaired my leaking washer tank. there wes 3 leaking spot :
- 1 hole ( welded )
- 1 crack ( welded too )
- the joint on the pump was pinched too.

After the last leak test, all was ok I was on my way to put it on the car but I hit the wall with the tank and it broke like glass... now ther's a big hole on the top. i will fix it later, the most important is that everything works now.

 

[Xavi3r]

I finished today

it is beautiful up to me !

the cas runs and starts very well.
I just need to check to the sequential turn signal that do not work well again. is it an easy fix.

 

[1970cat]

looks very nice

 

[bulldogchesty]

Great job.

 

[Xavi3r]

I saw that a talk around the sequential signals started here :
http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar...Imperial-2-dr-hdtp-5000-Verplanck-U-S-A/page2

so I made news pictures and a new video :

Now i am quite sure that there has been 2 assembly.
Back in the days, I bought a lot of sequantial parts, to be sure to have parts.
I bought this on day : the 2 relays attached to the original PCB card. that was, up to me, the original assembly. Chrysler wanted to show off a bit with a little of electronic.

You can see all the wires, the relays, and the famous PCB card in the red hard wax.

on the backside, another relay :


i decided to remove one of them ( they are in bad shape ) to see what is inside :
it is a classic relay, seems in good shape inside.



So, now, I think that this first assembly was defective and they changed the PCB card by another system.
The one I had on my car :


It looks like a Mercury cougar system.
It was originaly wrapped in a thermal envelope that prevent condensation I guess ( for the contacts ).

Whatr makes me thinbk that it is another version ot the system is that it is not a aftermarket thing. It was sold by chrysler.


and inside, the thing :



when the light do not flash this is a bad contact on the points.

NEW VIDEO here :
http://youtu.be/P_4yYp5tqEg

 

[goodneighbour]

I saw that a talk around the sequential signals started here :
http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar...Imperial-2-dr-hdtp-5000-Verplanck-U-S-A/page2

so I made news pictures and a new video :

Now i am quite sure that there has been 2 assembly.
Back in the days, I bought a lot of sequantial parts, to be sure to have parts.
I bought this on day : the 2 relays attached to the original PCB card. that was, up to me, the original assembly. Chrysler wanted to show off a bit with a little of electronic.
View attachment 50653
You can see all the wires, the relays, and the famous PCB card in the red hard wax.

on the backside, another relay :
View attachment 50654

i decided to remove one of them ( they are in bad shape ) to see what is inside :
it is a classic relay, seems in good shape inside.

View attachment 50655View attachment 50656

So, now, I think that this first assembly was defective and they changed the PCB card by another system.
The one I had on my car :
View attachment 50657

It looks like a Mercury cougar system.
It was originaly wrapped in a thermal envelope that prevent condensation I guess ( for the contacts ).

Whatr makes me thinbk that it is another version ot the system is that it is not a aftermarket thing. It was sold by chrysler.
View attachment 50658View attachment 50659

and inside, the thing :

View attachment 50660

when the light do not flash this is a bad contact on the points.

NEW VIDEO here :
http://youtu.be/P_4yYp5tqEg

Thanks for the missing part number,it`s not in the parts manual btw but it is now! These must be a warranty replacement,I have three of the ones in the red wax and not a one works. Julian,you might want to find one of these,or make your own.They look so simple compared to that box that you opened up in your thread.:sSig_thanks:

 

[Fratzog]

Amazing. That got to be the coolest gizmo. Thanks for posting the video.

 

[vdk2010]

I have the first box on my car. The "original" box. I don't know if it is broken or not. I'll check that when I rework the system!

If it is not working anymore, I will exchange it with a modern electrical system!

I've saved this link for this case:
http://www.thuntek.net/cougars_unlimited/ce1chry.htm

 

[Xavi3r]

I have the first box on my car. The "original" box. I don't know if it is broken or not. I'll check that when I rework the system!

If it is not working anymore, I will exchange it with a modern electrical system!

I've saved this link for this case:
http://www.thuntek.net/cougars_unlimited/ce1chry.htm

i know someone here in France that built such thing himself.
He did it for his Cougars and another one for a friend.

The system I currently have can basically not be broken, everything is a easy fix ( wires, soldering, cleaning contacts.. ) but yeah, a modern system is good too. silent, and maybe ( depends on quality of components ) really maintenance free.

 

[ceebuddy]

A little off topic, but: I am amazed to see a revival of sequential turn signals (of sorts) as LED's on brand new Volkswagen and Audi cars (called "dynamic turn signals").

 

[Xavi3r]

Hi guys,

I need to rebuilt the front end of the car.

I want to buy a complete front end kit. Do you have one to advise me ?
Is one best to another ?

 

[polarus]

Check out a company called FIRM FEEL, they carry a lot of good quality C body parts.

 

[Xavi3r]

thanks !
i found some other kits in kanter too.
But there is a diffrence :

Front End Rebuild Kit - Standard. 1967-1973 Chrysler Imperial With lower BJ thread in type.
Front End Rebuild Kit - Standard. 1967-1973 Chrysler Imperial With lower BJ press-in type.

Lower ball joint thread in / press in ?
what is the diffrence ?

 

[vdk2010]

I checked that for my '69 Imperial as well. You can buy everything from PST or Firm Feel except the Pitman and Idler Arm. Firm Feel is much more expensive than PST. I'm planing to use PST parts.

The '69 Imperial only Pitman and Idler Arm are not available new. Firm Feel can rebuild your cores if you send yours in. For round about $450 each, IIRC!!

Lower ball joint thread in / press in?what is the diffrence ?

On my car, the lower Balljoints don't have flat sides for the socket, so I assume they are pressed in.


Lower Balljoint (round)



Upper Balljoint (flat sides for the socket)

 

[bajajoaquin]

....The '69 Imperial only Pitman and Idler Arm are not available new. Firm Feel can rebuild your cores if you send yours in. For round about $450 each, IIRC!!

This would be worth some time over on the Imperial Club site (http://www.imperialclub.com/) searching the archives. Someone there did a whole bunch of research on the pitman arms and the exact differences between the C-Body arms and the Imperial arms. On his year (I don't remember which one he was looking at) the differences were within milimeters, and he decided to use the C-body arm. It worked fine.

Note that I'm not telling you to go ahead and swap with impunity. But if you see what the issues are, what the measurments are, you might be able to find another option.

 

[vdk2010]

Thanks Jonathan! Good hint. I checked the mailing list and found the mail you were referring to!

Hi Fred,You have encountered the same thing that I did with my ‘67 Crown Coupe in early 2013. After reading much discussion about idler arms, I went against the purist and purchased a Moog K7014 steering idler arm. I, also am a scientist (Ph.D. Engineer) by trade, and arrived at the same conclusion that you did. After replacing the idler arm, I had the front end aligned, as you suggested. The drivability is excellent, so I would say follow you reasoning and use the idler arm that you have. It is probably the same as the one that I used, and is listed for use on 1965 – 1973 Chrysler vehicles. The current price on Amazon.com is $37.99, so you got a real bargain when you bought it from Rockauto.
Jimmy H

The Pitman Arm he is talking about is crazy cheap compared with the Firm Feel way.
http://www.amazon.com/Moog-K7014-St...TF8&qid=1430400908&sr=8-1&keywords=Moog+K7014
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-Idler-Arm-Front-MOOG-K7014-/121174604924?hash=item1c3691bc7c&vxp=mtr

And I found a Pitman Arm from PST on Ebay. It's listed Imperial specific!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131029963597?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[vdk2010]

I checked my Sequential turn signal motor and relais today and I already have the "better" unit.





And it's working as it should!
[video]https://youtu.be/-ox_1lC_5K8[/video]

 

[Xavi3r]

i did some quick check up today and I have some questions about my imperial.

1) the clock was rebuild 1 or 2 year ago. it works when I do something with the front button. but nothing when the battery is on.
i suppose I only have to check if I have 12v at the wire at the back of the clock ?

2) it is quite odd, but I've never noticed that ( or I totally forgot about it ! )
- what is the wheel next to the map light ? what does it does ?
- What is missing next to the vent command ?



3) I do not know if I am the only one on earth to have that, I may have asked before but :
WHY IS MY DASHBOARD ALWAYS STICKY AND GOOEY ? I don't know what to do to clean it.. it always come back.
( yes i removed the radio, it was non working )

 

[tbm3fan]

I checked my Sequential turn signal motor and relais today and I already have the "better" unit.

View attachment 51353
View attachment 51354
View attachment 51355

And it's working as it should!
[video]https://youtu.be/-ox_1lC_5K8[/video]

Almost looks like the one used in the early Cougars that was unreliable. Replaced mine with an electronic one that is flawless.