Camshafts

What are you looking for? Mileage, torque, etc....
 
I think a cam is a great idea. You should get one.

:)

Just a few threads down is another discussion on cam choice. That's probably a good place to start to see the considerations you need to keep in mind when choosing. You can also go directly to the source, and call up a few cam companies, telling them what you're looking for.
 
Yeah it's got some other goodies on it such as accel ignition wires and coil. It's got a edelbrock performer rpm intake and a street demon 750cfm carb. I'm looking for a cam that has a rough idle. I'm just looking for more horsepower. Don't want anything to crazy. Do you think a 268 duration with 496 lift to is big of a cam for my 440?
 
Bigger cam generally equals more horsepower and torque in the mid to upper rpm range and a slight loss of power in the lower rpms. You need to increase your axle gear ratio and possibly change your torque convertor to really benefit from the gains. other wise you will have a dog that won.t get out of its own way. 265 I'm assuming is the advertised duration and not the duration at .050 which would be fairly tame for a big block mopar and not a bad choice but would still require running a higher gear ratio.
 
It's another person that knows nothing about all the workings and the different specs on different camshafts and how they effect the performance of a engine. With no info whatsoever about what he has or is building and is going to get bad advice. Dude, just replace it with a cam no more than 10% duration and <.050" of lift over stock specs
71- You have a lot, and I mean a lot to read to learn about cams. Good Luck
 
The two main things you need to look for when selecting the right cam is lobe separation and intake duration at.050 lift. Most cam manufactors recommend no less than 110 degrees lobe separation and no more than 230 degrees duration at .050 lift on a mild street engine because of intake manifold vacuum issues. 15 inches or more of vacuum at idle is what you want. It will make tuning your carb much easier and will allow your vacuum accessories such as your brake booster to work properly. Last but not least make sure the cam you select will work well with what gear ratio and convertor stall speed you plan on running. I speak from experience. I've built up a few cars in the past that turned out to be total dogs because I didn't know any better at the time.
 
stubs300 said:
It's another person that knows nothing about all the workings and the different specs on different camshafts and how they effect the performance of a engine. With no info whatsoever about what he has or is building and is going to get bad advice. Dude, just replace it with a cam no more than 10% duration and <.050" of lift over stock specs
71- You have a lot, and I mean a lot to read to learn about cams. Good Luck
Click to expand...
We all gotta start somewhere!
 
stubs300 said:
It's another person that knows nothing about all the workings and the different specs on different camshafts and how they effect the performance of a engine. With no info whatsoever about what he has or is building and is going to get bad advice. Dude, just replace it with a cam no more than 10% duration and <.050" of lift over stock specs
71- You have a lot, and I mean a lot to read to learn about cams. Good Luck
Click to expand...
Ever hear of the Socratic Method of Teaching. Obviously not.
Instead of ripping him a new *******, you can get someone eager to learn by asking simple open ended question requiring the student's mind to sort out what he wants to know.
 
Camshafts are definitely tricky......

C-Bodies are heavy cars and don't respond well with cams that have a lot of duration and lift. You can go up to .474 without any problems. .484 and more and you'll need a high stall torque converter (2500 stall). The power band on most of these cams are 2500-5500 and you find that out if you go with a big cam that these heavy C-Bodies doesn't respond well under 2500 rpm's. There's another issue you have to deal with with a big cam.....no vacuum for the brakes. It'll be a pain in the *** in bumper to bumper traffic. You can always re-engineer any problem....add a vacuum pump and or another vacuum canister to build a vacuum reserve for braking.

There are cams that sound badass when you're idling that are a little more friendly. Hughes makes a whiplash cam. There are others...

Here's a couple of video's to get you going....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=PuP3p338uSE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zM-c6KP7TuQ

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/index.php
 
Here's a guy who believes he knows everything, about everything. How do you think people learn? Let's all hope stubs300 doesn't have a part he doesn't know about....

stubs300 said:
It's another person that knows nothing about all the workings and the different specs on different camshafts and how they effect the performance of a engine. With no info whatsoever about what he has or is building and is going to get bad advice. Dude, just replace it with a cam no more than 10% duration and <.050" of lift over stock specs
71- You have a lot, and I mean a lot to read to learn about cams. Good Luck
Click to expand...
 
stubs300 said:
It's another person that knows nothing about all the workings and the different specs on different camshafts and how they effect the performance of a engine. With no info whatsoever about what he has or is building and is going to get bad advice. Dude, just replace it with a cam no more than 10% duration and <.050" of lift over stock specs
71- You have a lot, and I mean a lot to read to learn about cams. Good Luck
Click to expand...

Don't be such a dickhead, we all had to start somewhere.

Edit-Sorry other posters I responded before going through whole thread.
 
commando1 said:
In my very biased and not very humble opinion that is worth less than an Ethiopian food stamp, this is the ideal cam for a C-body that doesn't ever visit the strip.
Anyhing more and you start creeping up on street drive ability issues.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4120235ae/overview/make/chrysler
Click to expand...
That's the cam I went with after talking to a few local Mopar guys. I'll let you know how it works. I am however keeping my manual brakes for the time being.
 
commando1 said:
In my very biased and not very humble opinion that is worth less than an Ethiopian food stamp, this is the ideal cam for a C-body that doesn't ever visit the strip.
Anyhing more and you start creeping up on street drive ability issues.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4120235ae/overview/make/chrysler
Click to expand...

I agree. I had this grind in a 68 Sport Fury 383 4 bbl, 323 gears. Plenty of power, you know listening to the idle it is there.
I ran it both with and without headers, still pulled hard with HP manifolds.
 
commando1 said:
In my very biased and not very humble opinion that is worth less than an Ethiopian food stamp, this is the ideal cam for a C-body that doesn't ever visit the strip.
Anyhing more and you start creeping up on street drive ability issues.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4120235ae/overview/make/chrysler
Click to expand...
Okay here's where I need some advice, Mopar makes another cam with the same specs. except lobe separation is 114 instead of 108. What's the overall effect? Would the 114 hurt the amount of vacuum?
 
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