Can I change the oil pump relief spring in the car?

furious70

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2018
Messages
2,065
Reaction score
1,995
Location
Chitown
Can I get to the bolt and get the spring out and a new one back in with the pump on the engine? Obviously asking before I jack it up myself and have a look
 
No, 383.
Do you access the bolt from the back with a long extension? Can't visualize how a wrench fits in there
 
Remove the cover and do it on the bench. Get some 1/2 and 7/16 swivel sockets and extensions and remove the cover. Then put some green trans assembly goo on the o rings and the rotor to hold in place and reassemble. The pump housing will usually stay in place.
 
jacked it up tonight and looked. No way I see to get it swapped in the car.
Yes I could just take the filter adaptor off but the pump gears some loose then for no real benefit.
 
This is on my to-do list, and I think you can remove the endcap in place, but have not yet attacked it. I will use a simple washer inside the plug to increase spring relief pressure, and see what happens. I have only about 35 psi, and want a bit more.
 
This is on my to-do list, and I think you can remove the endcap in place, but have not yet attacked it. I will use a simple washer inside the plug to increase spring relief pressure, and see what happens. I have only about 35 psi, and want a bit more.

Is that 35 lbs. at idle or at 2000 RPM? If yer getting 35 lbs. at idle, that is mighty fine.
 
Dont disagree, but yes, at idle but does not rise with revs. Am thinking that all is well except that the relief is opening as flow increases.....and would like a bit more.
 
Mine rises with rpm but only 12psi hot idle. Standard pump. Old pump was leaking between adaptor and body and I couldn't find the right of rings without buying a $50 kit. But the psi was fine so want to try that spring in this pump
 
I’m not sure how much turbo hardware you have in the vicinity, but I changed the whole oil pump on my Imperial in my parents‘ driveway in 15* weather.

It wasn’t too terrible, you do have to remove both motor mount bolts and jack it up some, but I was able to get the pump assembly out- might be an option if you can’t get to just the relief spring end cap bolt with it in the car.
 
Hey Nick, the oil pump comes off and out without removing anything else, just did that. Was hoping I didn't need to take it back off to change the spring but looks like I will need to
 
Two thoughts... First, always check with another gauge. The aftermarket pressure gauges aren't exactly what I call "precision" gauges and there's a ton of reasons why they might not be right.

Second, oil pressure problems can be, and usually are, something besides the pump spring. If I were to try that, I would just replace the entire pump and hope that's the problem. If I did replace the pump, it would be with the idea of "Oh well, I'll need one when I rebuild the engine anyway".
 
This is a new pump, the old one was leaking between the body and filter adaptor. I liked the psi of it
 
Dont disagree, but yes, at idle but does not rise with revs. Am thinking that all is well except that the relief is opening as flow increases.....and would like a bit more.

Ususally it's nothing on a big block to take the oil pump relief spring cap off (why remove the pump?) and stick a washer in there and crank up the pressure a bit.

But there is a trade off.

Higher pressure on cold mornings can blow cheaper filters.

Old timers always said "high pressure oil pumps can wash bearings" whatever that means, it didn't sound good. Too much pressure.

Pressure is what happens when you stick your thumb on the end of a garden hose, pressure is restriction, and if your bearings are loose, you don't have enough, and even worse, excessive splash from loose rods squirting on cylinder walls can make the engine smoke.

Old oil = lower oil pressure.

Anyone who's had oil pressure gauges in lots of Mopars over the years will agree, much better pressure with fresh oil of the proper viscosity, conventional oil only please, no qualms with 20W-50 on old engines in the old days, using Valvoline, good oil, back then anyway.

I've got a new rebuilt 318 in one of the Loadrunners, and the instant it starts, boom, 75 psi. Tight bottom end. Goes does to about 35 psi @ idle, up to temp.

On old rigs with worn bottom ends, it's common to see as low as 5 psi @ idle up to temp.

The knock knock knock of an old engine at startup tells you everything you need to know, it's loose.

If you change oil, and the engine starts whisper quiet in those few seconds before the oil pressure comes up, it's in good shape "downstairs".

I actually time the seconds it takes for an engine to get oil pressure after an oil change, it tells me a lot.

3 seconds is good.

10 seconds of knocking is bad.
 
Why remove the pump? No reason other than I see no way on a C body to get the cap off. Please enlighten me.
 
The motor mount in back keeps you from accessing with a long extension and socket. From the front a guy might be able to with a custom bent 15/16" wrench bend like an S on the flat sides
 
@Loadrunner my complete apologies. Your comments in here made me try harder and I found a crescent wrench that fit. I now have 20-25psi more cold psi and we'll see how it goes at hot idle

PXL_20230901_171816787.jpg
 
Back
Top