I have a 1954 Chrysler Windsor. It’s been sitting for overthirty years in the garage. I was wondering anyone has a list of what I wouldmost likely need to change to get it running. Where is a good shop to buy these old parts? Like what fluid does thetransmission use or would oil still be ok? Thanks.
Car has been sitting...what do I need?
- Thread starter frog_dude
- Start date
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Thirty years?! Has the motor ever been turned over during that time? If only to keep it lubed?
I would pull the plugs and put an oz of Marvel Mystery Oil or txsm fluid in each cylinder and let it sit for a week. I would then try to turn the crank by hand to see if the engine is locked up.
One ounce per cylinder.
X2 it worked for me. My 300 sat for 32 years in a garage.
If the engine is still locked up I also poured 1/2 diesel 1/2 automatic trans fluid straight down the carb. I poured a quart of each that was too much, a pint of each should be fine.
fc7_plumcrazy
Old Man with a Hat
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2011
- Messages
- 5,299
- Reaction score
- 6,462
if you need other parts: this is the best source for those years:
http://www.oldmoparts.com/
Carsten
http://www.oldmoparts.com/
Carsten
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2010
- Messages
- 27,961
- Reaction score
- 26,910
I think I used a 50/50 acetone and ATF to get one unstuck and it did work. Have there been spark plugs in it the whole time?
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2010
- Messages
- 27,961
- Reaction score
- 26,910
That's good, take your time and get a breaker bar and socket that fit front of crank. Let the solution work a couple days and then try turning the engine over with the bar. If it doesn't budge add more and give it another couple days and repeat till you can turn it. I should say try turning it over with the bar immediately upon adding the oil and if you can't then follow with the above. If it takes several days to get it moving I wouldn't necessarily recommend trying to run it as the cylinders and rings may be coated with rust but you'll need to get it rotating to take it apart anyway.
Damn, its been a long time, guessing 1 1/8"
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I'm looking at my crank shaft socket as we speak.
1 1/4.......
Go CW and CCW.
1 1/4.......
Go CW and CCW.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2010
- Messages
- 27,961
- Reaction score
- 26,910
1 1/4" for bb Chrysler, not sure about the earlier engines though.
That was my second choice, gotta be 10 years since I needed to turn the crank with a wrench
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Too late for a save.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2010
- Messages
- 27,961
- Reaction score
- 26,910
If the engine is actually stuck you will need to turn it both ways, all plugs out for this of course.
I remember having to get some big sockets when I did my first chain at 17, after that I just dont remember
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
After you retire, you'll start scrapin knuckles, again.
BillGrissom
Active Member
How stuck the rings will be depends on where you live. SoCal or desert, should be easy, Houston - get a big wrench and pray. Just work on it a little each day for weeks. I have heard of everything from DOT 3 brake fluid to Coke used. I would start with WD-40, then maybe try diesel or kerosine. If those just run out past the rings, try thick motor oil. I was unlucky with a Mopar 273 engine that sat outside for years with rain in the valley. After removing the heads and beating the pistons from both sides, with a wood block on top (after soaking for weeks w/ various oils and DOT 3), I got all out but damaged several, and those were rare HiPo pistons. The bores were so pitted it requires an over-bore anyway.
Before turning the engine over by hand, pump oil thru the oil galleys to fill the bearings. I rigged up a garden sprayer with hand pump, with a hose going to the oil pressure switch port, in several engines. I like to do that first if the engines have been unused for several years. I would drain the gas and try to get as much out of the carb as you can, and fill with new gas thru first. The tranny oil should be fine and any condensed water should boil off with first driving, but maybe smart to pull the pan, especially if you live where condensation is a problem.
Before turning the engine over by hand, pump oil thru the oil galleys to fill the bearings. I rigged up a garden sprayer with hand pump, with a hose going to the oil pressure switch port, in several engines. I like to do that first if the engines have been unused for several years. I would drain the gas and try to get as much out of the carb as you can, and fill with new gas thru first. The tranny oil should be fine and any condensed water should boil off with first driving, but maybe smart to pull the pan, especially if you live where condensation is a problem.
