Carburetor confusion

Engine, Transmission & Driveline

  1. vinnyamaha

    vinnyamaha New Member

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    Hey all! I literally just signed up to this forum so forgive my stupidity. I am the proud owner of a 1966 plymouth fury 3 as of last week. Couldnt get the car to run with the new carb the previous owner put on until i filled the bowl manually from a gas can. I have an older bendix stromberg model ww that also came with the car and it works, however, fuel spews from every seal and even the top plunger hole. (I only have 4 barrel knowledge, sorry). Now, should I go ahead and rebuild the bendix carb? Also id like to point out the newer carb he had on it was too tall for the rod for vacuum advance on starting procedures. Do i need a fuel pressure regulator for these 2 barrel carbs? I noticed it doesnt have one and online, many cars dont have them under the hood... so any help and information is greatly appreciated. Im pretty sure he has half of the vacuum hoses routed incorrectly as well.. thanks!
     
  2. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    First off. the Stromberg carb that is spewing fuel out of everywhere probably has a bad float or a bad needle valve, so yes it needs to be rebuilt. If the other carb does not fit right, it will probably be better not use it, stay with the OEM Stromberg, they were excellent carbs and that will save a bunch of trouble with adapting the linkage. You can have big problems with both the throttle linkage and the transmission kick down linkage if the replacement aftermarket car is not "right" for your application. If you are running a stock fuel pump, you do not need a fuel regulator and it is not recommended that you use one with a 2BBL carb. The correct vacuum hose routing is available in the FSM (factory service manual) for you vehicle. You can download it for free at www.mymopar.com you will find the FSM in the Tools?Reference section.

    Dave
     
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  3. vinnyamaha

    vinnyamaha New Member

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    Thank you so much Dave, the newer no name carb is a good fit but its slightly too tall for the vacuum arm to choke the carb. I honestly dont know how to explain it, but i will probably just rebuild the OEM stromberg carb since its already showed more promise than the new one. As for the fuel pump, I have no idea what the previous owner put in it as he replaced the pump and the fuel tank. I guess I can put a regulator under the hood with a gauge so i at least know what im getting there. And thanks for the link! Ive been looking for something like this for a week now!
     
  4. Kristof

    Kristof New Member

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    If your car has a torqueflite, the number on the carb should be WW 3-259. SMP has a rebuild kit with part number 364A. 23,99usd on Summit Racing ( i just ordered one to perform a rebuild on my spare carb )
     
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  5. Jon O.

    Jon O. Well-Known Member

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    If it doesn't fit, rebuild the old one. This website is the best as far as im concerned: Welcome to Mike's Carburetor Parts - Your Number 1 Carburetor Parts Store
    When I rebuilt mine, Everything wasn't even finger tight and it was dumping gas into the engine while it was shut off. They had a good brass float for mine, and my grandpa who helped me got the float setting dead-on first try.
     
  6. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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  7. Jon O.

    Jon O. Well-Known Member

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    I forgot about that thread. Sounds like it would be mutually beneficial. Always good to support a member.
     
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  8. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    If you have a stock lever type fuel pump mounted in the stock location, you have no need for a fuel regulator. All that will accomplish is to give you car a convenient place to vapor lock. If somebody has a high pressure electric fuel pump mounted back by the fuel tank, a pressure regulator is sometimes used. Can not think of any good reason to run such a setup with a 2BBL carb though.

    Dave
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2019
  9. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    The pressure/volume output of the stock-spec fuel pump is designed to work with the carb on the engine, 2bbl or 4bbl. All the external regulator does is add complexity where it isn't beneficial. Now, if there was an electric pump back near the tank, it would probably need some additional pressure regulation, to get it DOWN to what the carb can handle.

    ONE thing that might be beneficial, though, is an inline fuel filter on the tank side of the fuel pump, under the hood. Reason is that if the fuel tank was replaced, but the fuel lines were not, there might be some crud in the lines that might become dislodged with use, which that additional fuel filter might catch. Just a simple inline filter, nothing special, so long as it's clear of any engine heat source. Which might be why the WWC is leaking, due to "trash" in the needle and seat, keeping it "open" all the time.

    Pictures of what's on the car now?

    Just some thoughts,
    CBODY67
     
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  10. BillGrissom

    BillGrissom Active Member

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    A few things to consider as you plot your path.

    Carburetors are increasingly expensive and difficult to repair. If you can find a rebuild kit cheap and the car is just an occasional driver, that might be the best path. My 1965 Newport came with a Bendix Stromberg WWC 2 bbl which gave 18 mpg on the highway (65 mph limits then). But, carbs are problematic and it stranded me a few times by idling rich (sooted the spark plugs = mis-fire). Other problems are fussing w/ chokes, leaks, even spilling fuel which can start a fire. For a regular driver, consider a throttle-body fuel injection. There are several now w/ integrated electronics that replace a 4 bbl carb and even look like a carb. No cutting wiring holes thru the firewall, self-tuning so little skill required, and some cost <$1000. You can save that much in fuel in a few years driving. Also, the engine can last longer since carbs running rich (esp. cold engine) wash oil off the cylinder walls to cause rapid wear. If you do go EFI, the main problem is delivering high-pressure fuel. There are under-hood systems now that leverage the existing tank and single fuel tubing, pricey but easier mod. They also require an O2 sensor in the exhaust, but I recommend that even for a carb and wideband O2 is cheap today. The days of removing spark plugs to judge color and decide "rich or lean" can be forgotten. BTW, if you need a new fuel tank, search here. The CR9 works (B-body ~1970 Roadrunner, ...) and is much cheaper than rare C-body ones.

    My 1965 Newport is in-work. Around 1996, I installed an aluminum 4 bbl intake and a Holley 2D Pro-jection EFI and O2 feedback. That was always problematic, requiring constant tweaking of the control box knobs, and even exploded a muffler from a brief "fuel event". I will change to an Offy dual-port intake and Holley Commander 950. I do have Quadrajet and Thermoquad "spread-bore" carbs I might play with. Those were the apex of carb design before the 1980's electronic feedback types, and give the best combination of mileage and performance, but are increasingly hard to restore.
     
  11. vinnyamaha

    vinnyamaha New Member

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    You guys are all very helpful, one reason why i love the mopar community. Anyhow, ordered a rebuild kit from Mikes carburetors and meanwhile, I got my chinese carb idling well. Under any throttle under load is completly useless however hahaha thank you guys! Toth performance will be building me a 396 stroker out of my poly 318 this summer so no more two barrel troubles after that! I would like to be able to cruise around while I wait though!
     
  12. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Chi-Com carbs only work on rice grinders.

    Dave
     
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  13. vinnyamaha

    vinnyamaha New Member

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    I like this idea a lot, never messed with any of that stuff. Im either carb or full efi, so in between is a little shady for me, but I will do my homework. Looking at buying the chrysler power 4 barrel intake manifold also.

    Off topic: if the B-body fuel tank works, what other driveline parts are interchangeable?