I contacted the carb shop that did the rebuild. They said if I take it off and bring it to them they will get it fixed. Otherwise, if I had the funds, I would fly Boydsdodge to Greenville to get this done.
Ron
Changing a Mechanical Fuel Pump - '78 New Yorker
- Thread starter rsbolin
- Start date
Ron
rags
Senior Member
that's great. the spring is a very simple repair. i'm sure that you let them know that the engine had a long crank time and they will inspect it for any related issues. thanks for the update and hope it goes well for you.
Big Tuna
New Member
Ron! Please tell me you don't have your throttle return springs hooked to cruise cable lever??!!
My other 77 did exactly what yours is doing, and my problem was the floats in carb! They were the crappy nitrophyl ones and they were sticking. I replaced them with brass (walker #100-50) x 2, and set it all to spec. Voila! No more of that issue. Your secondary air door needs adjustment. Spring has come loose, or it has broken from being over tightened.
My other 77 did exactly what yours is doing, and my problem was the floats in carb! They were the crappy nitrophyl ones and they were sticking. I replaced them with brass (walker #100-50) x 2, and set it all to spec. Voila! No more of that issue. Your secondary air door needs adjustment. Spring has come loose, or it has broken from being over tightened.
I do not believe that the throttle return spring is connected to the cruise cable lever. Send me a picture of your and I will validate. Another member sent me a photo of his a month ago as I had that same question.
There is not tension on that secondary air door and it will not adjust. I am going to have to remove and take it to the Carb Shop that did the rebuild. I suspect the spring is no longer connected, but I do not know how or why that would happen when I have not touched it.
A few things for you, or, someone else with similar issues.....If this is a cold start problem where you have a long crank before starting....make sure the choke is adjusted correctly along with the pull-off. If it starts after one pump and then dies before the long crank, the float bowl is empty for some reason. TQ's are notorious for leaky plastic bowls as already mentioned. Missing or damaged lower rubber bowl seals are also common. If it doesn't start cold at all after a pump or multiple pumps, but will if you prime it, the accelerator pump is defective. This is also something that can cause your acceleration/bog problem once fully warmed up too. It's obvious that your secondary air door is way out of whack. That should be completely closed unless the secondary throttle plates are open. Oh, and I agree with Big Tuna....your return spring should attach on the accelerator cable pin between the cable clevis ears.
A picture is worth a thousand words on the spring attachment to the accelerator cable pin between the cable and the clevis.
I do notice a discoloration between the metal and the plastic of the carb. It looks wet. I do not smell fuel, but I notice there is discoloration.
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