Checking out a 66 300

Sorry, I didn't mean the tank itself. But if you're doing EFI, I understand that the best way to do it is to put in an in-tank pump. I was curious why you didn't go that route when you had the tank out.
 
Sorry, I didn't mean the tank itself. But if you're doing EFI, I understand that the best way to do it is to put in an in-tank pump. I was curious why you didn't go that route when you had the tank out.

Yea there isn't an option for a c body to have an in tank pump. Tanks Inc has some mopar options but they're all smaller capacity. So I figured the power surge made more sense then using a small tank. You are correct that the best way is to have a submerged pump.

I actually was able to get everything installed. The new mechanical pump works great and doesn't drain back. I was able to push the rod up and not have to remove the plug right now. I'm planning on pulling the motor and trans this winter anyway so I'll tackle the plug and measure the rod then.
 
Got it, thanks. EFI is on the list but I had been agonizing about paying for the temporary front mount pump before dropping the tank and installing one there later. This helps me make up my mind.
 
Hey guys,

I'm going to check out a 66 300 hard top 2 door. Any advice on problem areas to check out. I already know it's got a small bit of rust behind the drivers side rear wheel but it looks clean otherwise. It's got buckets and a console and is supposedly running and driving decent. Like I said, just looking for advice and areas the experts might know about.

James
My convertible is a survivor car. As far as a sound body goes, if it were like mine, I would look at the floorboards behind the front seats. That was the only area that my car had the metal cancer bad. I've noticed a shortage of the portion behind the drivers side is much harder to come by than the right side. Andy's Auto was where I found both rear sides, where the filler floorboard is. Good luck.
 
Got everything finished up with the suspension. I just need to adjust the ride height now. She's sitting a bit low in the front at the moment. What's the preferred method? The FSM is pretty vague saying to place a load on the torsion bar and then adjust until the measurements are within 1/8 inch between the two spots on the LCA. I think I read somewhere on here that said something like 30 turns or so on the adjustment bolt.

I'm generally not the guy that likeS the slammed look at all, but looking at her in the garage with all that forward rake is kinda cool.

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Slammed is beautiful... I could use a thread link that says how to adjust torsion bar to get lower om my 66 300.
 
Well now that the rain has moved back to the PNW I have a list of stuff to do. The boats in dry dock for the winter so out comes the motor and trans.

Torqueflite Patty convinced me to tear into the trans myself. If I get to over my head I'll just call him and have him come down. For my first trans pull it was painfully easy. Now for the interesting part of doing a rebuild.

On the motor I found out that what I thought was a rear main leak was actually a slow leak from the plug behind the flex plate. I'll address that along with checking out my timing chain and other components. I might as well, the motor is gonna be out.

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Got the motor out. One thing I didn't count on was the length of the nose of the old girl. So I figured what the hell, I have a 6 inch thick engineered laminated beam running through the garage I'll use that. I grabbed 2 10k chains from work and a 2 ton chain hoist. Worked like a charm. Now I get to clean the entire engine bay before the motor and trans go back in. Fun times ahead.

Not happening
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I love finding transmissions well preserved by engine oil and road grime like this one. :p
Just lightly de-grease and wholl'a 'Factory Patina'!
Chain fall is the way to go, used a fairly robust roll around stand but with cheep wheels on a big block once... never again. (but I was a lite weight back then)
heck I've even used a come-along... :wideyed:
And snaking the engine & trans together back in like some do is a sure way to bang & scratch it all up. (love these cars shows that do it).
VERY SWEET RIDE BTW!
 
Got the motor out. One thing I didn't count on was the length of the nose of the old girl. So I figured what the hell, I have a 6 inch thick engineered laminated beam running through the garage I'll use that. I grabbed 2 10k chains from work and a 2 ton chain hoist. Worked like a charm. Now I get to clean the entire engine bay before the motor and trans go back in. Fun times ahead.

Not happening
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Mighty fine! Very soon, I am contemplating a similar set of pictures of my convertible.

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Is the chain for the chain fall going through your drywall and over the beam? I can't tell from the pic
 
Mighty fine! Very soon, I am contemplating a similar set of pictures of my convertible.

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I need a engine stand like yours. I have the cheap 750# HF special. That motor is super clean though.

Is the chain for the chain fall going through your drywall and over the beam? I can't tell from the pic

The beam was dry walled. I went up over the beam and down for the chain fall. I didn't even hear a creak out of anything. Super easy.
 
Started tearing into the transmission.....I’m getting that in over my head feeling but oh well. No turning back now.

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I betcha YouTube is yer friend. . .

For sure you tube was helpful on this adventure. This book has helped out the most though

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I was really surprised when I got into it. It was obviously worked on in the past and it seemed recent. All the clutches looked brand new, both bands looks great with lots of life left. No burnt steels. The end play was right in the middle of the spec range before I tore into it. I ordered up a paper and rubber seal kit and now it’s going back together.

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I’m glad I tore into it myself. I’ve learned a ton in the process.
 
Anyone have a trick for getting the converter to seat right? I’m having a hell of a time getting it engage properly.
 
Anyone have a trick for getting the converter to seat right? I’m having a hell of a time getting it engage properly.
It's always just been lift,wiggle,turn,curse,shake until it goes all the way in... worst case, removed and make sure everything is free with a long screwdriver, repeat...

p.s. the cursing is extremely important...
 
I texted my buddy who has probably rebuilt a hundred 727, he says he likes to stand it on the tail shaft. He said it takes a lot of patience so that is normal.
 
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