Checking out a 66 300

detmatt said:
I'm seriously considering an EFI for my Imp., how much did you end up spending soup to nuts?
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Soup to nuts I'm close to $1800. But $300 of that is a new tank because mine was seriously nasty in the inside. I didn't want to run crap through the pump. I guess I could have found a tank from a b body maybe that would've been smaller capacity through tanks inc but I wanted to be able to run the carb again if I ever sell her.

Samplingman said:
Can you use the stock air cleaner for that "OEM" look?
Click to expand...

In theory yes. I need to punch widen the diameter of the opening to 5 1/2 I believe. Stock on our cars is 4 3/4? Don't quote me on that yet. I will be running the stock airfilter soon enough though.

fury fan said:
Other thoughts:
  1. Please let us know how that Robb canister works in tight turns, if it prevents fuel starvation to the EFI, and if there are any quality issues. It's $100 cheaper than the surge tank that FITech is selling, so Robb is on my radar if I ever get around to EFI.
  2. Please move that canister closer to the radiator, it's a little vulnerable if you get in a fender-bender.
  3. Swap out that plastic fuel filter for a standard metal type. That plastic filter, and the glass-tube style that Mr Gasket et al sell, should not be on any of our cars.
  4. I see you have 'the shiny spot' on your water pump pulley. Your PS belt has caused that, ping back if you need more explanation
Click to expand...

Yes please explain the shiny spot if you can.

On to your questions fury fan.

1. Don't bother with the fitech FCC. I haven't come across many people that have had good luck with them. It's dead headed to the TB (which I believe is 90% of their problem) and has a smaller capacity than the robbmc unit. The Robbmc unit is a beautifully designed piece.

2. I took that into consideration and decided that not having it too close to the radiator was worth it.

3. I fully intend on swapping to an all metal filter. I just wanted to make sure there was not left over debris floating around before I do. I'm also going to run that fuel line differently.
 
For the record, the AFB and large 2-barrel necks are 4-1/2" dia, the AVS, TQ, and modern 4-barrels are 5-1/8" dia.

The shiny sport comes from a rubber bumper missing from the PS pump bracket, which allows some slop in the PS belt, and it flops against the water pulley. Shove a suitable piece of rubber or wood down in there and re-adjust the belt. Or swap the a newer-style of bracket (make sure the bracket fits the pump).
 
fury fan said:
For the record, the AFB and large 2-barrel necks are 4-1/2" dia, the AVS, TQ, and modern 4-barrels are 5-1/8" dia.

The shiny sport comes from a rubber bumper missing from the PS pump bracket, which allows some slop in the PS belt, and it flops against the water pulley. Shove a suitable piece of rubber or wood down in there and re-adjust the belt. Or swap the a newer-style of bracket (make sure the bracket fits the pump).
Click to expand...

Don' know which power steering pump you have, but there are several bracket kits out there: Power Steering Brackets
 
Been awhile since I've updated this post. I decided to do some front end work. The process has been educational for sure. I started with front shocks, which led into everything but ball joints as the appear to have been recently done. KYB front shocks and new rubber. Firm Feel poly bushings for the upper and lower control arms along with their greaseable pivot arms. Also replaced the rubber brake lines because with a single master, $8.50 a side is cheap.

Things have been going well without any major issues. Even my torrsion arm boots were in great shape. I'll try and wake up in a few hours and finish up the drivers side.
 
Pic of the left and right lower control arm bushings. I'm no sure they were ever done.

IMG_0207.JPG
 
Got everything finished up with the suspension. I just need to adjust the ride height now. She's sitting a bit low in the front at the moment. What's the preferred method? The FSM is pretty vague saying to place a load on the torsion bar and then adjust until the measurements are within 1/8 inch between the two spots on the LCA. I think I read somewhere on here that said something like 30 turns or so on the adjustment bolt.

I'm generally not the guy that likeS the slammed look at all, but looking at her in the garage with all that forward rake is kinda cool.

IMG_0208.JPG
 
I'd say this looks about right.

image.jpg


One thing I'm sure of is that a contortionist couldn't get to the brake cylinder bleeders. That's the last thing I need to do is bleed the brakes because I replaced the rubber lines while I was in there.
 
Ok guys I was replacing the mechanical fuel pump today. The pump came out with no issues of course but the fuel pump rod will not come out. There is a plug under the mounting surface but it's not pretty and looks like it's been stripped. Any idea how to get that shaft out? I've thought of turning the motor over but I'm worried about damaging something.
 
Jimmyse23 said:
Ok guys I was replacing the mechanical fuel pump today. The pump came out with no issues of course but the fuel pump rod will not come out. There is a plug under the mounting surface but it's not pretty and looks like it's been stripped. Any idea how to get that shaft out? I've thought of turning the motor over but I'm worried about damaging something.
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The plug has to come out to let the rod out.
 
I wish I had advice for you. I had a different problem with my 66. I got the plug and the rod out but I have a new push rod seized in the block and had to go to an electric fuel pump (would not do this unless you have no other choice).

My push rod was indeed shorten and needed replaced, if you can't get it out, I would be inclined to install the new pump and see if that takes care of your fuel delivery issues.
 
As long as you're in there, I'd set it to factory ride height. The method is pretty simple. Measuring two spots on the suspension/chassis and making the difference be within a range. I found my car drive noticeably nicer at the proper ride height. Lowered looks cool but I'd start out at factory height and see if you want to change from there.

Regarding the EFI, I'm curious why you didn't go with the proper in-tank pump while you had it off. I'm going to switch and use the front mount remote like you did, but I don't have a garage to drop tanks and do this stuff.
 
bajajoaquin said:
As long as you're in there, I'd set it to factory ride height. The method is pretty simple. Measuring two spots on the suspension/chassis and making the difference be within a range. I found my car drive noticeably nicer at the proper ride height. Lowered looks cool but I'd start out at factory height and see if you want to change from there.

Regarding the EFI, I'm curious why you didn't go with the proper in-tank pump while you had it off. I'm going to switch and use the front mount remote like you did, but I don't have a garage to drop tanks and do this stuff.
Click to expand...

I've been playing around with ride height a bit and I am going to bump it up a hair more.

I went with the RobbMC tank simply because there is a lack of options for our cars. I mean I guess I could have used a b or e body tank but its smaller. Pulse I have the instant ability to change back if needed.
 
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