Cold Case is here to help

ok people - pictures are worth a whole bunch of words, so:
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in the above photos ^^ , the rad is resting on the bottom bolts, on the slider channel of the radiator frame lower mount area.

in all honesty, I think its gonna need some adjustment.

understand I couldn't let go of it or it would fall, and I had to take the photos at the same time, but I futzed with it for a bit, and if its gonna fit at all, its gonna be SO EXACT ,and being that the provided mount locations are oval and slider, I think it is intended to have some adjustment play in these areas, so I don't think its gonna line up, basically.

its still a kick *** (potentially, as i have never ran it yet) setup. it just needs more adjustment.


try not to cut yourself on the aluminum edges -

- saylor
 
On the top pic, it looks like you would need to drill a hole for the top mounting hole?

On the bottom pic it looks like you might have to extend the lower slot a 1/8" or so? Then the rad will drop enough for the top holes to be perfect?

For production units the hole on the RH side is gonna be a problem unless there is another hole on the support hiding behind the radiator that we can't see. For the driver side we can easily extend the slot for better fitment.
We are currently making brackets to be able to mount the OEM fan shroud to that radiator. If that hole is an issue, we'd likely have to stop production and you guys would still have a decent fitting radiator but no bolt on solution for the shroud. You guys gonna be ok if you have to drill one hole on that RH side?
 
I have a few questions:

1) Saylor, on what car have you installed this?

2) If not a 70 Fury, what are the differences? I thought you had sent a radiator from a 26" radiator from a 70 Fury to them.

3) if you have an electric fan set up, why are you running a fan shroud?

4) If a fan shroud is not necessary, does the line up problem still exist?
 
A pair of two holes. Why is this so hard? :BangHead:
because there is no metal where the hole is suppose to be! ;) It's easy to add holes but there has to be material to put a hole into. In this case, it would involve making an entire new bracket for the passenger side for one hole.
So I guess I will ask you the same question. 'it's one hole, why is that so hard?' :)
 
I have a few questions:

1) Saylor, on what car have you installed this?'

2) If not a 70 Fury, what are the differences? I thought you had sent a radiator from a 26" radiator from a 70 Fury to them.

3) if you have an electric fan set up, why are you running a fan shroud?

4) If a fan shroud is not necessary, does the line up problem still exist?
'
Saylor should confirm but here's my take;
1. He has a 1968 Fury.
2. The oem radiator he sent was dimensionally correct. To us it looks like we missed one hole.
3. He decided to take the entire fan kit from us so he could move on with his project. We're working on making a new radiator that you all can add a factory fan shroud to based on his oem sample and dimensions several of you have provided for the 1970 as well. It sure looks to me like the new radiator will fit 1968-1970 C-body with OEM fan shroud with the exception of drilling one hole.
4. Our fan shroud kit should have no bearing on the fitment to the support. So the missing hole would still be a problem.... or would it?
I hope I got that right as I am traveling tomorrow and will not be able to defend myself! ;)
 
On the top pic, it looks like you would need to drill a hole for the top mounting hole?

On the bottom pic it looks like you might have to extend the lower slot a 1/8" or so? Then the rad will drop enough for the top holes to be perfect?

For production units the hole on the RH side is gonna be a problem unless there is another hole on the support hiding behind the radiator that we can't see. For the driver side we can easily extend the slot for better fitment.
We are currently making brackets to be able to mount the OEM fan shroud to that radiator. If that hole is an issue, we'd likely have to stop production and you guys would still have a decent fitting radiator but no bolt on solution for the shroud. You guys gonna be ok if you have to drill one hole on that RH side?
The lower slotted hole on the right side is too high. The radiator is in the opening crooked.

The upper holes look to be in the right location.

So, the question is if the bracket on the right side can be extended down a bit or if the yoke has to be drilled in that spot. It will be more difficult to drill the lower hole in the yoke.
 
OK, so it appears the question is, what's the next step here? Shouldn't one be able to measure the exact holes from Saylor's radiator he sent in to determine if the holes will line up or not? I guess that's why I'm a bit confused. I thought it was said by Cold Case that their radiator lines up with the holes on Saylor's. Hence why I was asking if a 70 radiator was different from a 68.
 
guys, we had the radiator. We didn't have the radiator support. The radiator support could have been twisted slightly from an accident or heat from a fire over the past 48 years.
It's very hard to determine what exactly is going on in those two pictures. It could be something as simple as a extending the slot and everything may fall into place. I'm seeing these pics at the same time you saw them and havent' talked to Saylor yet.

Tom, the radiator might fit in perfectly on your 1970.

Remember how when I first came on here how you guys were very skeptical and said we'd learn soon enough about the uniqueness of c-body and we'd walk away just like all the past companies? The point of us being here is to work out any fitment issues. It's a challenge we have accepted as long as you guys are willing to continue to help.
 
Oh, I'm not being critical. Sorry if I sounded that way. I just think it's probably better I wait for you to talk to Saylor and come up with whatever solution or steps that are needed for proper fitment.
 
1.) cold case (ccas and his team) are top notch and have been very involved with me/this little project the whole time - (i.e. have no fear buying from them they answer the phone when you call.)
2.) I do think the lower right slider could be extended - allowing for more tweaking, and possible fit.
3.) 1968 - and always has been 1968 - anything '70' was side comment and got mixed in
4.) I think the holes are where they are supposed to be - i.e. I don't think I covered any mounting holes up
5.) I gotta leave for work, but will post more later
 
Remember how when I first came on here how you guys were very skeptical and said we'd learn soon enough about the uniqueness of c-body and we'd walk away just like all the past companies? The point of us being here is to work out any fitment issues. It's a challenge we have accepted as long as you guys are willing to continue to help.

I think everyone here appreciates that you are trying to do this.

IMHO, these guys are pretty loyal when they see a vendor trying to work with C-bodies. Detroit Muscle Technology comes to mind as an aftermarket vendor that is consistently recommended and used by many of us (myself included) because they have realized that there is a market here.

2.) I do think the lower right slider could be extended - allowing for more tweaking, and possible fit.

I think there's some confusion here. The left (drivers) side holes and the upper right side hole is correct and the bottom right side hole is not correct. Is that right?

3.) 1968 - and always has been 1968 - anything '70' was side comment and got mixed in

FWIW, I measured the vertical distance between the right (passenger) side holes on my 1970 Chrysler 300 this morning. It has a replacement 26" Spectra radiator, CU332, that fits quite well and uses the OEM fan shroud.

It measured ~11 3/4" center to center.

A quick measurement on a few cars over the range of years will answer some questions. Anybody else own a tape measure?
 
I will obtain a measuring device and report back with results.

I will also try to hang the radiator in reverse order - i.e. hanging it from the top bolts first and not resting it on the bottom bolts first. maybe it will line up differently.
 
For what it is worth as I have screwed around with various rads in my car, '68 Rad's fit '69's, 69's and 70's should be the same. The mounting holes will be the same '70-'73, the rad outlets will be the difference and the '73 with need the NPT threads..

Personally, If I'm dropping $399 USD plus everything else that goes with it, It had better damn well drop right in and bolt up, considering I had a $89 parts store special that did just that..

My 2 cents worth.

I like that your rad tanks have a stock style appearance.

Nick
 
I'm noting in the pictures that the left hand side of the top radiator tank sits above the top edge of the radiator support and the right hand side is hanging down below, so yes the radiator is not sitting level on the support. With the right hand side lifted up into position the left hand top hole should line up properly as well as the top right hand hole. The only one being possibly wrong then would be the lower right hand hole.
 
Any thoughts on attaching a radiator with just the 3 bolts? Is that fatal in any way?
Not fatal no, I have sometimes done so but it is recommended to not leave it that way. In this case, you may find that the bottom right bolt will still have some purchase on a bit of the flange as it is. We will have to see what happens after Saylor gets back to us.
 
The radiator to radiator brace mounts are totally screwed as is. Trying to Mickey Mouse an existing mount to save money is not working.
START with a total rethink of the mounting and throw away all that Ford and Chevy Think. ONE design of the mounts will solve many applications.
My Engineering Design & Consulting Services are available at minimum costs.:D

Meanwhile, a perfectly fitting radiator for all 74-78 C-bodies could have been done by now.
 
Meanwhile, a perfectly fitting radiator for all 74-78 C-bodies could have been done by now.
Who likes those cars? :poke:

I've always used the bottom bolts as a way to keep the radiator from dropping down, lift it up and put in the top bolts, then the bottom. With my rigged up Jegs aluminum, I only have three bolts, no issues in 5+ years.

Are 65-67 radiator supports the same, dimensionally? Or do they have different mounts? I can get measurements if needed.
 
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