Convertible Fury - 1970

Thanks, it's pretty solid, with not much rust, but it has plenty of small dents and dings. I think every body panel needs at least some work.
 
I finally got a throttle linkage pin. Does it look like I have it set up right? Also, should the nut on the pin be fastened tight or should I leave a little wiggle room so the pin can rotate where it attaches to the carb? Thx.
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The nut needs to be tight.

Usually the return spring goes on the pin too. It rides in the "U" on the throttle cable end. That's not really necessary but it would give the spring a touch more tension and the spring would be a little more in line. Where you have it is OK, so that's your call. I would close the loops on the end of the return spring a bit so it's harder to slip off.

Oh... and turn the spring over so the open end faces down. Saves some scrapes on the hands.
 
Will it damage an electric fuel pump to run it to drain old gas from the tank?
 
From the stupid questions department: 1. Where is the convertible top fluid reservoir? The manual says to fill it and check it, etc., but I can't see where it actually is. 2. Can you lower the top manually? I get nothing when I try the switch and just want to lower it for a while. Thx, Jeff
 
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Fluid reservoir and pump is behind the rear seat back. You will have to pull the seat bottom out first.
 
OK, I guess I have another reason now to remove that back seat.

My son and I took it for its first short drive today. It was pretty fun, despite the ugly top that wouldn't go down, noisy steering, exhaust leak, etc.

So is it OK to manually retract the top or do I have to get the automatic systems to work first?
 
the pump and reservoir are one unit. there is a rubber plug on the end to fill it.
you can put the top down manually but i would suggest unhooking the cylinders first or eat some extra wheaties before :) if you can just pull the pins and fold the cylinders down out of the way where they won't cause any binding or holes in the top.
 
So I took my trunk lock apart because the key wouldn't go in. One of the "pins" was stuck in a pin cylinder. Each of the 5 pin mechanisms consist of two tiny pieces of brass and a spring. One of the pieces of brass is machined to fit into the spring. The other piece sits below that one and is the one that contacts the key. One of those is pictured. One end of each of these is beveled so it has a wedge shape. I don't know if that is visible here. So my questions are: 1. Is the wedge-shaped bevel part of the design or is it wear? 2. If designed that way, should the bevel end be the end that contacts the key and does the bevel have to be aligned with the movement of the key? I kind of hope it is just wear and that it doesn't really matter how it is aligned because it will be hard to get it back together correctly. I'm shocked that I haven't lost any pieces yet. Thx.

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It really shouldn't be wedge shaped. It should be beveled on the end that hits the key.


That looks like the pins were stuck in one spot and not rotating. If it's just one, pitch it over your shoulder and put the other ones back in. It will work fine.

If it's all of them, you can take them all out and any key (or screwdriver) will work the lock, but it will appear correct. I'm not recommending that... but it will work. The correct way will be to buy another lock cylinder and key. Then you can have the glove box changed to fit the new key.
 
Thx john. If I leave out one or more pins, do I also leave out the corresponding spring and machined pin (s)?
 
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