Deleting a/c compressor

[1978 NYB]

The 400 engine is a "B" engine, (like a 383). A 440 is an "RB" engine.

Only difference is the deck height. 440 RB being a taller deck height. This has nothing to do with pulley depth. However as far as the mount brackets go, you will need to get alternator brackets for a B engine

I've tried swapping these parts before and it won't work. You will either need all the brackets and pulleys from a B engine or the entire set up for a 440. And if it has the 100 amp alternator (which all 400 and 440 Formal's have with a rear window defroster option) it changes all the brackets again.

 

[MKTSC]

I'm about ready to put the damn compressor back on and just run it as is. This is pissing me off. Just hate clutter in an engine bay, especially for non-working equipment.

 

[polara71]

I'm about ready to put the damn compressor back on and just run it as is. This is pissing me off. Just hate clutter in an engine bay, especially for non-working equipment.

If you are doing this because the A/C doesnt work, repair the A/C. If you are doing it to reduce engine bay clutter and do not care about the A/C then stick to your guns and find the right parts. Giving up so easily in this "hobby" will net you nothing but resentment towards the car itself .

 

[1978 NYB]

If your car has manual A/C it is pretty easy to get it working again.

 

[MKTSC]

Getting rid of the AC because I want to reduce engine clutter and dont use AC.

 

[polara71]

Getting rid of the AC because I want to reduce engine clutter and dont use AC.

I love it...... I too am anti A/C

 

[commando1]

I'm about ready to put the damn compressor back on and just run it as is. That's dumb. This is not hard.
This is pissing me off. That's even dumber. This is not hard.
Just hate clutter in an engine bay, especially for non-working equipment. Most dumb. This is not hard.

Worst Post of the Year Award. For many reasons.

 

[MKTSC]

Guess that's what I get for posting in frustration, lol.

 

[MKTSC]

So I talked to 440 source, and apparently in order to get everything to line up, I'm going to need the Saginaw pump, brackets, and bolts and a 2 groove crank pulley.

The pulley isn't that expensive. The saginaw pumps I'm seeing on eBay are exorbitantly priced. Checked moparts and the classifieds here for a pump. Somebody 3 years ago was selling a pile of misc pumps, but other than that, nothing.

Know of a good place to get a good used pump? Do the lines from the Federal pump hook right up to the Saginaw unit?

 

[commando1]

So I talked to 440 source, and apparently in order to get everything to line up,

 

[Big_John]

I'm not buying that you have to change the pump. You might have to change the brackets, but they put those pumps on non A/C cars.

 

[Big_John]

Mopar Big Block Federal Power Steering Pump Bracket 67 68 69-72 383 440 426 Hemi | eBay

 

[Big_John]

These brackets and pulleys are apparently gold plated under the black paint, but you get the idea.

Mopar 383 440 426 Hemi Power Steering Pump GTX Non AC Air Brackets Pulleys Cuda | eBay

 

[bluefury361]

A properly equipped (non A/C) parts car, (there are many out there), will yield everything you need. One stop shopping. Just ask ..... post a wanted ad.
I'd do it for you ...... but you need to learn....!

All the parts should cost less then one of those "cast in gold" pulley's or brackets.

 

[Big_John]

You can also download a parts book for your car here: MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Parts & Accessories Books

Start looking at part numbers and compare P/S brackets between A/C and non A/C cars. Then look at pulleys etc.

Will is right though... best to just get what you need from a parts car.

 

[MKTSC]

Yeah I saw that crazy priced ad on eBay earlier. No way I'm paying that. I'll put up a wanted ad, and try that Wildcat Mopars place tomorrow.

 

[MKTSC]

Well after talking to Wildcat Mopars and checking a few more avenues, I decided not to spend $400 on cleaning up the engine bay, and ended up putting everything back. Got rid of a lot of the AC lines and plumbing, so technically it looks much cleaner, but I'm still using a 60lb compressor as an idler. Oh well..

I added a new fan clutch because I had a sneaking suspicion that the old one was bad. Car seemed loud, and I was wondering if this was a contributing factor to the single digit fuel economy. The old fan clutch was definitely bad. The car is literally half as loud now. And you can hear the fan disengage where it did not before. Car's never run better. Just going to enjoy it for what it is.

 

[commando1]

The old fan clutch was definitely bad. The car is literally half as loud now. And you can hear the fan disengage where it did not before.

I'm a little lost here. I've have never heard a fan engaging and disengaging.
The compressor I hear.

 

[MKTSC]

Clutch fans are generally loud once when you start the car up, and depending on RPM (viscous) or temperature (thermal spring), the disengage and turn and almost freewheel. My old one wasn't disengaging. The new one you can hear disengage shortly after starting the car.

 

[commando1]

I know how clutch fans work...
So what you are saying is, you hear the difference in engine noise, not actually hearing the clutch fan engage and disengage in itself.