Dragging rear brake shoes, drum brakes 11x2.5

[bluefury361]

So you can remember back that far?
I wasn't around then...

Me either, but there are still several cars of that era still around.
I worked for a few private collectors back in the 80's who had everything from V8 Fords to Packard's, Auburn's, Pierce Arrow's, etc.
I would buy the lining material, rivet it to the shoes and them arch them to fit the drum. The machine was pretty simple, Set the drum diameter and clamp the shoe down, start the electric motor which ran a grinding stone and manually rotate the lining against the stone until the desired radius was reached. Never had a problem with lining to drum fit.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

It used to be standard procedure to arch new brake shoes/linings to match the drums. I had a machine that did just that.
It was a mandatory step when working on cars of the 20's & 30's.

Hach Dung Lin Long is not doing that step, he makes $85 a month can't be fired because the gov will have to get him a job in another place because everybody works in a communist utopia society. Quality assurance is your job they just make the parts.

 

[Blue 300]

Funny thing is, this is the second set of AutoZone Duralast shoes I installed. So yes both sets must have been in need of reshaping. (I want that machine! BlueFury)
I understand that Duralast shoes are made by Bosch. Or at least the 10 year old Chinese kids that Bosch employs. Because its only brake shoes,what could possibly happen? So If your looking for shoes in the future and AutoZone has them in stock, maybe keep for Raybestos ?
I have a set coming from Summit Racing right now.
Build it here, Buy it here. If I want Chinese I'll get chop suey. mini-rant over.

 

[commando1]

Where's the guy who pops in out of nowhere always at this time to hawk his real asbestos linings?

 

[68plymouth383]

Craig Mobile parts.

 

[butchr66]

Had that happen on a A100 van a few years ago. Turned out it wasn't the brakes but a rear axle adjuster. Just outta the blue right after I did a brake rebuild. No rhyme or reason but sometimes old Mopars just get weird I guess.

 

[BigblueC]

Hey guys, I'm having a similar problem as the OP. My rear brakes (65' New Yorker) seem to be over tight and trying to do most of the stopping. I have rebuilt most of my brake system (new wheel cylinders, rubber lines, flushed & bleed the lines, new shoes, new spring/hardware, turned drums) and everything has been working fine, with the rear dragging just a little more than I feel it should. Last week I had to smack my brakes because of another car, which produced a leak in my booster now (I'll send that off for rebuild this winter). Since then my rear brakes have over tightened an equal amount side-to-side but feel like there trying to do 70% of the work stopping the car. I've read something about changing the self adjusters to a 69+ but I can't find a link to information about this. Can someone throw me a link to this information or offer some insight on this issue? Thanks.

 

[commando1]

Did you install a dual master brake cylinder?

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Hey guys, I'm having a similar problem as the OP. My rear brakes (65' New Yorker) seem to be over tight and trying to do most of the stopping. I have rebuilt most of my brake system (new wheel cylinders, rubber lines, flushed & bleed the lines, new shoes, new spring/hardware, turned drums) and everything has been working fine, with the rear dragging just a little more than I feel it should. Last week I had to smack my brakes because of another car, which produced a leak in my booster now (I'll send that off for rebuild this winter). Since then my rear brakes have over tightened an equal amount side-to-side but feel like there trying to do 70% of the work stopping the car. I've read something about changing the self adjusters to a 69+ but I can't find a link to information about this. Can someone throw me a link to this information or offer some insight on this issue? Thanks.

Your rears have self adjusters and the fronts do not. adjust up your fronts back off the rears and keep the fronts adjusted up they need to lock first and if they are tight the rears will not bind up. It is a good idea to put a dual circuit mater cylinder on there as Stan suggested.

 

[BigblueC]

I have not done anything to the master cylinder, yet. I will be looking into this when I pull the booster.

70BBD - My fronts have a self adjuster (looking) assembly, is that not what this cable set up is?

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Yes my bad, I think what I described is whats happening, your fronts are not adjusting themselves to keep up causing rears to over react and tighten too much. I would readjust and then just keep a eye on everything they might have worn in quickly (truing themselves to the drum) and the self adjusters may not have been able to keep up might be okay now that they are seated to the drum.

 

[66Newyorker]

I may have missed it but I don't see where anybody mentioned the park brake cables being frozen (rusted) to the point where they don't move. You could have one side staying applied. What I've done in the past is disconnect the cable and test drive to see if that one side still gets hot.

 

[BigblueC]

I happened to think about the park brake cable being stuck while I was in the rear drums last night, they're moving freely. As it turns out the rears were not over tight, but definitely doing more than their share of the stopping. I pulled off the driver front and found the adjuster cable bound up and holding the adjusting arm off of the star wheel so it hasn't been adjusting. Hopefully that's my problem on the other side and this clears up my issue.

 

[luigi164]

Okay so I'm pretty sure I got this whipped. I used some (Chrysler) blue paint to spray the inside of the old drum last night. Put it on and ran it a few 10-12 revolutions. Then removed it and found that the only contact seemed to be evenly across the bottom edge of the secondary pad. The blue streaks extended up about 2 1/2 inches. So I grabbed my trusty angle grinder with an 80grit roloc disc and ground that area down and reshaped the pad. (asbestos free shoes) So far So good. Temp ran up to 188 degrees last night after a few panic stops, but stayed down to around 107 on the morning commute. I think it just needs some break-in miles now.

I'm having the same issue and did all the same things you did. Still my RR brake heats up. I even left the selfadjusters out so that would not be the cause. Just asking: did your reshaping of the shoes solve the problem?

Luigi