drip rail molding removal

Any good quality rivet gun will work. I usually use an air rivet gun because I am lazy. Plus it's a lot easier on the hand.

I miss having my air compressor. This partial restoration would be a lot easier. I'd actually be able to strip and lay down some decent primer. Not sure if there's anything decent in spray cans.

Although I have to say, I'm finding my flexible socket extension to be my best friend these days. Wish I had gotten one years ago.
 
Well, damnit. I guess the weatherstrip is coming off. At least it looks like all screws.

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I think after you take the screws out and remove the weatherstrip channel you will find rivets actually holding the drip rail on. I'm basing that assumption on Alan's picture.
 
I think after you take the screws out and remove the weatherstrip channel you will find rivets actually holding the drip rail on. I'm basing that assumption on Alan's picture.


Had to go back out into the cold to check, but the trim removal gods are on my side. The screws go through holes in both the channel and the drip rail trim. No rivets underneath. It must be different on hardtops. I couldn't get at the wagon easily to check how it is on there.
 
Had to go back out into the cold to check, but the trim removal gods are on my side. The screws go through holes in both the channel and the drip rail trim. No rivets underneath. It must be different on hardtops. I couldn't get at the wagon easily to check how it is on there.

Cool beans! You must be livin right Peter! Oh and just to rub it in it's still about 70 degrees here. :poke:
 
As an update, the weather strip channel had screws, the drip rail molding had rivets. As stated by Chris, a 3/8 drill bit removed them easily. While it was necessary to remove the drip rail molding for the vinyl top installation, I'm glad I did because rust was forming under the sealer they put in the front and back ends of the drip rail channel.
 
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