Dry Carb after sitting for a week.

me too till it shot way up
Price makes no difference. The difference is engines that start and run = living vs engines that don't start run = not living very well sometimes causing death. I got a neighbor lady who runs it in her Suibi wagon, smart woman.
I like to add a little oil to that gas

A little oil is ok, as long as you don't foul plugs.

My golden rule for 2 cycle is 40:1 regardless of the Amsoil etc 100:1 nonsense, regardless of oil used, 40:1 for safety and longevity of engine.

You can use it to start rigs, though I prefer straight gas.

2 cycle gas is absolutely wonderful for fogging an engine prior to over winter or longer storage.

Drain gas tank.

Add small amount of fresh 2 cycle mix.

Run engine until is chokes and dies, fouls plug.

Drain carb and tank, and your done.

Some people like to drown engines in Seafoam, which is way too expensive for me.

Diesel will do the same job, just stinks for a couple centuries afterwards, and the plugs will be hard to clean, best to toss them.
 
Cranking with no oil pressure is where engine damage occurs. The quicker it starts the better.
 
Cranking with no oil pressure is where engine damage occurs. The quicker it starts the better.

Unless your oil pump is so shot that the oil system drains dry and refuses to prime at normal cranking speeds, this is basically 100% wrong.

Building oil pressure by cranking before firing the engine is a good thing.

The worst thing that can happen to an engine that's been sitting a long time is to start instantly at high rpm after a long spell of sitting without some preliminary cranking to build oil pressure, pump up the lifters, etc.
 
Unless your oil pump is so shot that the oil system drains dry and refuses to prime at normal cranking speeds, this is basically 100% wrong.

Building oil pressure by cranking before firing the engine is a good thing.

The worst thing that can happen to an engine that's been sitting a long time is to start instantly at high rpm after a long spell of sitting without some preliminary cranking to build oil pressure, pump up the lifters, etc.
LAZY people sit on there butt and crank the engine. Then they think they have saved the day, wrong answer folks,

OK sure if it has oil pump problems then fix it.

And when it’s been stored pull the distributor and drive and prime with a drill. I don’t start a good engine after storage without priming it. You shouldn’t either

you sound like an addict in denial. LOL
 
LAZY people sit on there butt and crank the engine.

This is usually how I start all cars, on my butt cranking the engine, and I am lazy, otherwise I'd walk or bicycle or use a horse and wouldn't have a car.
 
Seasonal blends have been around since at least the earlier 1960s. Texaco used to advertise that their fuel was blended for "your area", back in 1963. Winter blends were usually a bit more volatile than the summer blends, for easier cold weather starting. Not sure what that has evolved into with ethanol and EFI, though.

CBODY67
THAT ISNT TRUE TODAY . ALL THE GAS S CHEMICALY THE SAME ITS FEDERAL LAW THE DIFFRANCE IS THE ADDITIVES THEY PUT IN THE TANKER TRUCK BEFORE THEY FILL IT . I HAVE FREINS THAT SWEAR THEY GET BETTER MPG FROM MOBAL/EXON I GET THW SAM MPGS FROM WHAT EVR I USE .(IM USE TO USEING CRUISE CONTROL BU MY NY DOSE NOT HAVE IT . MY COUSIN CAN GET BRTTER MPGS WITH MY CAR THAN ICAN I TELL HIM IT HAS TO DOWITH HIS DRIVING HABBATS BUT HE DOSE NOT BELIE ME . THE GAS U BUY IS TE SAME FROM STATION TO STATION WITH THE ETHALOL CRAPBWE HV TO USE NOW . IUSE TO USE PURE GAS BUT IT 5 BUCKS A GAL NOW &I CANT SFORD IT . SOI USE REGULAR
 
69 Chrysler 300, 505ci, 4640S. Everything is new or recently overhauled, new fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel pump, 4640s overhauled by Woodruff, newly overhauled engine, distributor, coil, etc.. The choke is not hooked up and is open all of the time. It's Texas, it's hot, it's not the issue.

When you drive the car daily or every couple of days it starts right up. Two pumps of gas, crack the throttle blade, crank it and it fires right up, idles and drives as it should.

If the car sits a week or two, it would need to be cranked for 15-20 seconds before starting. I had spark, but no gas.
Went out today after sitting 10 days, two pumps of gas as I looked down the carb, no gas spray from accelerator pump. Pulled fuel line from carb, cranked the starter, took about 8-10 seconds before I got fuel to pump out of the line.

It appears that the fuel is draining down back thru the fuel line and leveling with the fuel tank. I wouldn't think it could siphon fuel out of the carb though. There is never a fuel smell in the garage.

Once fuel gets pumped back up to the carb, car runs and starts as it should until it sits for a week or so.

What gives?

Thx

View attachment 559779

View attachment 559780

View attachment 559781
THE CHOKE SHOULD STILL BE HOCKED UP WITH OUT IT U HAVETO FLOODTHE CARB TO START IT . & U HAVE NO FAST IDLE TILL THE MOTOR WARMS UP. BUT THEN U MSAY NOTDRIVRE IT ALOT SO U DONT NOTIC THE DIFFERANCE IN THEWAYIT RUNS . A GOOD MECHANIC WOULD HAVE THE CARB LINKSGES ALL CONNECTED ALONG WITH THE CHOCK LINKSGE . I HAVE SEEN LOTS OF GUYS THAT DONT USE A CHOCK & THEN HAVE RNNINGISSI=UES & DONT KNOWY
 
Unless your oil pump is so shot that the oil system drains dry and refuses to prime at normal cranking speeds, this is basically 100% wrong.

Building oil pressure by cranking before firing the engine is a good thing.

The worst thing that can happen to an engine that's been sitting a long time is to start instantly at high rpm after a long spell of sitting without some preliminary cranking to build oil pressure, pump up the lifters, etc.
 
First things first..rubber fuel lines resting on engine..not good. Cause fuel perculation and not to mention a fire waiting to happen.
1672190584810.png

Repop steel lines are available and recommend heat sheathing.
Secondly, get either an electric choke or manual choke cable. Regardless of outside temps, as you may already know a working choke does help in quicker start-ups
As others mentioned, todays fuel blends do evaporate and empty float bowls is a common thing nowadays when cars sit for any extended period of time-- my C's do that.
I spray brake cleens down the carb or fill the bowls with gas.
Pain in the *** but better than a long dry start-up.
The other alternative as mentioned is run an electric fuel pump to prime the carb.
Hope this helps.
 
First things first..rubber fuel lines resting on engine..not good. Cause fuel perculation and not to mention a fire waiting to happen.
View attachment 573201
Repop steel lines are available and recommend heat sheathing.
Secondly, get either an electric choke or manual choke cable. Regardless of outside temps, as you may already know a working choke does help in quicker start-ups
As others mentioned, todays fuel blends do evaporate and empty float bowls is a common thing nowadays when cars sit for any extended period of time-- my C's do that.
I spray brake cleens down the carb or fill the bowls with gas.
Pain in the *** but better than a long dry start-up.
The other alternative as mentioned is run an electric fuel pump to prime the carb.
Hope this helps.
now i drive mine just about every day . i dont have rhe vaperizng problem once i piche the oem holley went to a oem avs (its a 780 cfm avs . now when i had my 73 polara( cammed 400) it had a thermoquad i put a spacer between the carb& intake &w added a cold can but ran the fuel lines acrosss the fender with a short rubber line for the flexing of thw motor i ran rhe cars on the strip + it was my daily driver (it ran 115 mph in the 1/4)+ i raced anyone for topend (most gave up @120 mph lol)
 
First things first..rubber fuel lines resting on engine..not good. Cause fuel perculation and not to mention a fire waiting to happen.
View attachment 573201
Repop steel lines are available and recommend heat sheathing.
Secondly, get either an electric choke or manual choke cable. Regardless of outside temps, as you may already know a working choke does help in quicker start-ups
As others mentioned, todays fuel blends do evaporate and empty float bowls is a common thing nowadays when cars sit for any extended period of time-- my C's do that.
I spray brake cleens down the carb or fill the bowls with gas.
Pain in the *** but better than a long dry start-up.
The other alternative as mentioned is run an electric fuel pump to prime the carb.
Hope this helps.
if u do use a electric pump put 2 race pumps & use a street mecanical one @ rhe block or u will wear out the neeedl & seats on the carb (been there &done that !) alsio add a regukator on the fender as a precaution
 
Thx for the responses. Some of this has gotten way into the weeds.

Back on point, the Carter AVS apparently has a tendency to evaporate gas thru the bowl vent when sitting. Got it. It is what it is. I just use some Starter Fluid for the first start after sitting.

Choke - I live in Texas where the temps for most of the year are 60F-105F, the choke isn't really required for a normal start. Running a manual cable or re-fitting the carb with an electric choke is more work than necessary.

Thx again
 
Back on point, the Carter AVS apparently has a tendency to evaporate gas thru the bowl vent when sitting. Got it. It is what it is. I just use some Starter Fluid for the first start after sitting.

Choke - I live in Texas where the temps for most of the year are 60F-105F, the choke isn't really required for a normal start. Running a manual cable or re-fitting the carb with an electric choke is more work than necessary.

Thx again
 
I just use some Starter Fluid for the first start after sitting.

Not to go in the weeds again, but starting fluid - great for small engines in freezing temps - is spendy but even worse potentially harmful to engines, depending on too many variables to mention here.

Gas on the other hand, is cheap, easy to put in a tiny squeeze bottle, easy to pour into the tiny bowl depression area of the air cleaner lid, as if it was made for it.

Don't forget to tighten the wingnut after the engine starts and you're off.

Watch out for cold engines spitting back/potential engine fire via a paper filter on fire.
 
well i would NEVER use "starting fluid" on anything i would use carb cleaner first . i have seen way too many motors damaged from over reveing on no oil pressure i like a plastic spray bottle& gas . if its a diesel use gas on a rag lay it onthe breather then crack it & start it .
 
i liv in mo . we have more temperature swings than u do in tx. u still have not told me how long it sets between starts . on some motors its normal if it sets in the sun for over a month u c on a efi system its a closed system . i would say crake it to refill the float bowls then start it as any cold motr set te choke & let it go into fast idle . not to be critical but how many carbureted motors do u have?it sounds like u dont have many carbureted ones i would tell u to start it more often . in all my 50 yrs f having older mopars i have never had the problems u r having i have had many cars & trucks . during te summer i start them once a week-once every 2 weeks & there is allways gas in the bowls now unless u have a crack in the fuel bowls . with a top filling bowl there is no way u can have the gas draining out of the bowls (gas will not run up hill if u r having a dry bowl u have a problem else where . if the gas is evaporating in a week i bet the floats r set too low . now this is my opinion but in my 45 yrs f working on my own stuff i have made lots of mistakes. but i have learned from them .i try to pass on what i have learned . now the modern gas will evaporate faster than pure gas but in a week or a month u should not have a dry bowl. if evetying is right .
 
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