E-brake hanging up
- Thread starter furyfever
- Start date
I wouldn't panic too much about the Ford parts. A lot of common service parts were/are shared among manufacturers.
The brass float for the fuel sending unit in a '67 Newport is the same as an '89 Crown Vic wagon.
Here's a pic of the '67 Chrysler FSM:
It looks to me like you have the adjuster spring correct, if '68 is the same.
If you don't have an FSM (Factory Service Manual) you really should add it to your reference library. They are readily available and worth every penny. I got two of them from eBay.
Chilton's and Haynes are decent, but there is no substitute for the FSM.
Another item that I found to be invaluable:
1968 Plymouth Fury Color Wiring Diagram - ClassicCarWiring
Not sure what year Big John's pic is from but it doesn't match the '67 pic.
Hope the input helps, and doesn't confuse.
John
My pic was a screen shot from my 69 manual.
Here's a link to some downloadable FSMs.
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals
There's a 68 Plymouth there.
I looked in the 68 manual and it matches the 67 picture. Interestingly, the upper hole isn't shown on those pictures.
Regarding the Chilton manuals.... The factory FSM is heads above them. I'm not sure where the Ford parts come into play here. The shoes and assorted parts all look normal to me... and I agree with John that parts fit across manufacturers.
Regarding the Chilton manuals.... The factory FSM is heads above them. I'm not sure where the Ford parts come into play here. The shoes and assorted parts all look normal to me... and I agree with John that parts fit across manufacturers.
tbm3fan
Old Man with a Hat
E-brake Still Hanging Up!
Even with new rear e-brake cables...passenger side still does not release properly...I've taken the rear passenger side shoes off again, deburred the e-brake arm and the horizontal center link, never-seized e-brake arm pivot point (it's nice and free), reassembled and still...when I release the e-brake...the rear passenger brake stays locked up. I have to fiddle with the e-brake cable to make it let go. I've swapped positions of the cables in the frame bracket (near adjustment stud). I've removed passenger e-brake cable from it's 2 restraints. Tried adjusting the brake shoes loose to snug...Tried adjusting e-brake cable loose to snug. Nothing makes a difference. It's almost like the spring on the passenger e-brake cable isn't doing it's job?...but it's brand new?
I've had brake shoe releasing problems in the past with other vehicles. Because of this, I'm aware of "wear grooves" in the stamped pads on the backing plates. When I replace brake shoes, I always touch up/clean off these resting pads with with a small grinder. Because this is a low mileage car, I didn't see hardly any wear grooves in these pads. Still, I touched them up/cleaned them off...so I can eliminate wear grooves as the culprit here. I'm at a loss why the passenger side e-brake won't release...
Bob
I've had the exact same problem on my car from about 4 years ago. One day tried to back out of the driveway and the passenger rear wheel wouldn't budge for awhile. I looked everything over, adjusted shoes this way and that with no relief. Haven't tried a new cable as for now the car is parked on flat ground with the e-brake off.
Thanks guys...Chilton's had a diagram for rear brakes that matched my brakes and was labeled Ford Motor Co. The diagram Big John posted from the 69 Manual matched the photo in my Chiltons for Chrysler Corp. but not my car, so I jumped to conclusions as to having Ford parts in my brakes. What I have in my rear brakes IS in the diagram MYSINBIN John posted (5 above). Looks like I have the right springs in the right holes then. I'll try what you suggested John...and will let you know what I find.
Thanks so much again for all your time/input guys...
Bob
Thanks so much again for all your time/input guys...
Bob
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Thank you for verifying this!
I must add...You know what bothers me...the hydraulic brakes on the passenger rear (as well as the other 3) seems to work very well. I've had my wife sit in the car and hit the brake pedal while I hand spin the right rear...brakes well/releases well every time. It's just the e-brake that hangs up on this wheel. That has to rule out the stamped pads being the culprit and must be a big clue to this head scratcher.
Bob
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Somewhere in his previous posts, furyfever confirmed that it happens with or without the drum installed.
John
Whoops I missed that one.
Bob, when you get a chance could you snap a couple more pictures? One with the parking brake on ( want to se pics that show the top return springs, and the brake cable under tension). Is the cable wedging on some thing when it is tight?
Next a picture of the brakes with it released before you mess with the cable ( same two pics as above). Maybe I am wrong , but shouldn't the main return springs be helping return the brakes more than the little spring on the cable?
Marty
Bob, when you get a chance could you snap a couple more pictures? One with the parking brake on ( want to se pics that show the top return springs, and the brake cable under tension). Is the cable wedging on some thing when it is tight?
Next a picture of the brakes with it released before you mess with the cable ( same two pics as above). Maybe I am wrong , but shouldn't the main return springs be helping return the brakes more than the little spring on the cable?
Marty
I'll try to get a few photos today...
On another note...a friend of mine mentioned to me that he thinks a spring belongs on the bracket underneath the car between the mount bracket for the 2 rear e-brake cables and the adjustment bracket (that swivels) that comes from up front. I know that would surely help my situation. Anybody know if there is supposed to be one (or two) there?
Bob
I've never seen a spring in that location that I can remember.
Thanks for the e-brake cable diagram HWYCRZR. I look to have all the factory parts there then. decided to run a test today. I found a couple of springs in my junk drawers....hooked them up from equalizer to e-brake cable bracket. It's enough the retract the passenger side e-brake. Here's a photo.
With e-brake depressed. Not all the way, so right top brake shoe won't leave it's perch.
With e-brake depressed. Not all the way, so right top brake shoe won't leave it's perch.
With e-brake released. Did not do anything to push back brakes by hand.
With e-brake released. Did not do anything to push brakes back by hand.
Don't see where these photos tell you anything...but here they are as you requested Marty.
Bob
With e-brake depressed. Not all the way, so right top brake shoe won't leave it's perch.
With e-brake depressed. Not all the way, so right top brake shoe won't leave it's perch.
With e-brake released. Did not do anything to push back brakes by hand.
With e-brake released. Did not do anything to push brakes back by hand.
Don't see where these photos tell you anything...but here they are as you requested Marty.
Bob
Thanks for taking the time to take the pic's, but you are right, they aren't telling me much. It looks like your cable is completely free, and the top of the pads shouldn't be hanging up on the pin.
If your extra springs are doing the trick, I would say that John A. In post#23 on the weak cable springs called it. I would have thought the brake springs would have provided enough force to return the pads.
If your extra springs are doing the trick, I would say that John A. In post#23 on the weak cable springs called it. I would have thought the brake springs would have provided enough force to return the pads.
I've come to the conclusion that the original passenger brake cable (spring) is old/worn out...and the aftermarket passenger cable (spring) I bought is weak, right out of the package. Not sure what I'm going to do...for now I guess I'll run with the added springs...unless someone here has a better idea? Is there another manufacturer out there that makes good e-brake cables? The brand I used is Duralast (Autozone) which is probably Chinese junk.
Thank you very much everyone... for all your input.
Bob
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Sounds like you've got it narrowed down.
A couple of other things to think about:
1. The '67 FSM refers to the equalizer bracket when replacing the rear cables. The last thing stated is: Note different size slot for corresponding cable end fitting.
The fact that the old cable did the same thing as the new one may dismiss this as an issue. But if the equalizer is not original to the car, then it may have an effect.
2. Maybe you could use a piece of the old spring and add it to the new cable in line with the new spring. It may twist right onto the cable itself. In a sense, your adding more tension to the release function.
Hope the input helps.
John
A couple of other things to think about:
1. The '67 FSM refers to the equalizer bracket when replacing the rear cables. The last thing stated is: Note different size slot for corresponding cable end fitting.
The fact that the old cable did the same thing as the new one may dismiss this as an issue. But if the equalizer is not original to the car, then it may have an effect.
2. Maybe you could use a piece of the old spring and add it to the new cable in line with the new spring. It may twist right onto the cable itself. In a sense, your adding more tension to the release function.
Hope the input helps.
John
John...My equalizer had one small hole and one large hole. Had to enlarge the smaller one to fit one of the new cables because both new cables had the same size ball on the equalizer end. Bummer huh? That should have been my first clue to NOT install them on my car. I could take the equalizer out and weld the filed hole up a little and then file again to make it smaller I suppose.
So...I decided to remove the new cables today so I can take them back. I'm not paying ~$60 and still have to put extra springs on the equalizer to make passenger side retract properly. I can do that with my old cables. Below are photos of the cables before I bagged them up. The driver side (short cable) has the long spring and the passenger side (long cable) has the short spring. Someone got it bass-ackwards. Either that or there's no quality control at all. Too bad I didn't notice this before I installed them. Hmmm
So...I decided to remove the new cables today so I can take them back. I'm not paying ~$60 and still have to put extra springs on the equalizer to make passenger side retract properly. I can do that with my old cables. Below are photos of the cables before I bagged them up. The driver side (short cable) has the long spring and the passenger side (long cable) has the short spring. Someone got it bass-ackwards. Either that or there's no quality control at all. Too bad I didn't notice this before I installed them. Hmmm
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