evap condensation removal

5wndwcpe

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Ok fellas, I just charged the a/c in the '70 Sport Fury and I had water dripping inside the car. It's very humid out and I'm sure it's condensation from the evaporator. My question is how is it supposed to get outside of the vehicle ? There is a sizable puddle under the car as well so it looks like most of it is making it to the outside, but not all of it.
Is there a drain tube somewhere ?
 
Ok fellas, I just charged the a/c in the '70 Sport Fury and I had water dripping inside the car. It's very humid out and I'm sure it's condensation from the evaporator. My question is how is it supposed to get outside of the vehicle ? There is a sizable puddle under the car as well so it looks like most of it is making it to the outside, but not all of it.
Is there a drain tube somewhere ?

There are two of them on the base of the air box in the engine compartment, If you have a mirror, look under the air box and you should be able to see where the water is dripping, there is no drain tube or hose just a gap in the housing, the drains sometimes get clogged with mouse droppings etc, a small nail bent at a 90 degree angle will usually clean out the drain. Another common problem is cracks in the rubber gasket for the inside air box, check to see where the water is leaking out. If the water is running out one of the air passages, the drain is plugged, if water is dripping out the bottom next to the firewall, the gasket is bad.

Dave
 
On some GM vehicles of the '80s, air pressure from the engine compartment allegedly kept the air box from draining. There's a right angle how to put on the drain tube to keep that from happening.

From what I know, the air box seal was a known problem, even when the cars were newer. Upon further investigation, the slide-on nuts should have been on the outside of the case, rather than only on one side, , meant the gasket (open cell rubber?) had to conform to those clips being there, sealing against them, with small gaps on each side of the clip. Worked for a while, back then. I was at the local dealership one day when a new customer had had the a/c case on her Fury III resealed twice already, with no improvement.

To me, the best way to do it would be to remove the case halves and put a bead of silicone on one side, letting it fully cure before assembly. Possibly even leaving the push-on nuts in place, or replacing them with a different style of retention, possibly external metal hex nuts instead? Key thing it to have good sealing on BOTH sides, with good retention.

Back then, I asked the local Chrysler (old-line) service manager what they changed. He said that they deleted the drain pan from the '69 design, which funneled the water to the drain, rather than letting it collect in the bottom of the case.

Back to the drain tube issue, they can get algae'd up with time, so a manual clean-out (as mentioned) might be a good first step. On some of the '80s GM fwd cars, they had the right angle drain, but with a collection area at the bottom, with a slit that stayed shut. When one of those cars was on the rack at a friend's service station, I noticed some wetness on the bottom of the hose, touched it, and a deluge followed. YIKES! About a quart of "water" came out, it seemed.

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67
 
Thank you.

So it doesn't show in the fsm, but I'm assuming the gasket(s) are between the front cover and the rear cover with the heater core sandwiched in between ? I'm going by the picture in the fsm on page 24-81.

It would appear as though that's where it is leaking from.
 
This is an example from my 300, it might not be the same, but the idea is there. There are two gaskets actually, one seals the condenser, the other sandwiched between the haves. I’m pointing to the condenser seal.

A6D92425-A4EF-4E58-917E-F71B79AAA56A.jpeg


This is the box half that attaches to the firewall, condensation ports are visible below the socket.
31249EDA-5341-46BD-A25F-4463B2015CB2.jpeg



Another view, this is the box upside down, ports are at the top.

1CF4A84D-950D-47AF-B989-018DD8FB0FEE.jpeg


This is the passenger compartment cover removed, core is still attached to the firewall. A bead of black 3m silicone is suggested to coat one side of the gasket, that’s why it’s still attached to the other half. If you need a new gasket, DMT will have them at Carlisle.
A0407EA5-0E0C-4F75-8906-D082AC803761.jpeg
 
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