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Maximum tire size
This explanation is here, in various forms, at least 40 different times to help novices take measurements. Always surprised how many folks get these measurements wrong .. and it makes all the difference sometimes between the set up working or not.
rim size and offset for newport
rim size and offset for newport
not sure of exact tire size, but the brand is Nitto (maybe 555R's?) . The recommended tire sizes for those diameter wheels tend to be 245/55, 255/45, or thereabouts. looks like a good fit, at zero offset, for a slabbie.without skirts
Basic stuff here, but pretty good if somebody isn't sure about the things to plan for. Also geared for newer cars (e.g. no C's have front struts, some have front discs, rear skirts, etc),, radial metric tires, etc.
Sorta gives a clue on swap priorities: Backspacing, wheel/tire diameter, and wheel/tire width -- all using a a' baseline" of what OEM options existed for the particular C-body platform when it was in production.
Again, seems what we have said in all these posts is, VERSUS OEM BASELINE, an upsizing "envelope" (slabbies a little different from fusies, a little different again for formals) of something like:
plus 4 inches maximum on combo diameter,
plus 4 inches maximum 4 inches (2 inches suspension side, 2 inches fender/quarter side) on the combo width, and
about plus 1 inch (4.0 to 5.0 inches) on backspacing
lotsa wheel/tire combos can fit that envelop -- without irreversible modifications to the car.
Popular Mechanics - Guide To Upgrading Wheels and Tires
NOTE - graphic has an error in the aspect ratio - a "50" tire is 50% as tall as the tire is wide. Not 70%
I will have to point out an error in this. Where were their editors/proof readers? A 50 series is not 70% as tall as wide...
WILL THEY FIT 73 CHRYSLER NEW YORKER BROUGHAM
I listed it . Read it again... BS 4.5. that's as tight as I want it. Maybe a 275 would have fit, but I think it would have looked choked. That's just my opinion. I'm happy with my wheels.
yes, you did. sorry.
i was goin' cross-eyed looking through all the other posts and missed it. your fitment looks great.
real nice car. thanks for posting it.
Folks. that's it for me. Read over 400 threads. Sure I missed some photos and matching descriptions.
Using posts #5, #19, and #24, and links therein, I made the charts at the very bottom of this post. The equivalent diameter tire, using different diameter wheels.
Say it another way, every tire listed in a single the chart is the same diameter ---25, 26, 27, 28, or 29 (these tall babies are moving into truck tire territory) inches tall. You will notice the wheel diameter in each chart is 15, 16, 17, or 18 inches (not yet "donk" territory if that's your thing). Next graphic illustrates the idea
Presumably, to make it all work, a backspacing between 4.0 and 5.0 inches would work most often and therefore be a good place to start planning for.
Higher likelihood that, without permanent vehicle modifications (or removable stuff like spacers. airshocks, etc), and after you choose a wheel diameter and width (11-inch tread width un-inflated), calculate clearances and speedo effects, some combination of wheel & tire on these following charts will "fit" your C-body.
Notice, the word was "likelihood", and not "certainty". Respectfully, plesae take the extra time to plan for your car -- even if it is the same make/model of something you saw on this forum or in person.
Experience has painfully taught me to "measure twice, cut once" as that old saw would apply here too when you wanna move off the OEM "as-built" specs. Heck, if you arent the original owner of your C body, no telling what's been done to/changed on your C over the 43-55 years since it rolled outta the factory.
Obviously, there are really small, tall, skinny sizes listed that most people won't use in ordinary driving. Maybe not so obvious, as section widths get around 275+, aspect ratios get around 50+, that's getting to be BIG, TALL, and/or FAT tire -- moving into a size territory where chances of fitment without mods goes down.
Anyway, we haven't seen the last of the questions -- "what's the biggest .. , "what will fit ... Some of us will still roll our eyes at such questions. It's all cool. But if we keep adding real examples with descriptions to this thread and others, it may help us "grow the love" for our beloved C's.
Meantime, I will keep posting pics/info as I run across it, or do stuff to my own cars. Hope a few of you all do too.
Thank you for compiling this information!!!
The backspace on these wheels is 4.
1969 Chrysler 300 Tires
1970 Chrysler Newport tire size conversion
17x9 rear with 275/55/17. 5" backspace (0 offset)). 17x8 front with 255/55/17 4" backspace (+12mm offset). I had a little rubbing on the drivers rear because the diff is not centered. I had to trim the valuable SS wheel trim and pinch welds about 1/2"
excellent post. thanks for the comprehensive response. nice car too btw.
curious about this diff. centering question you point out?
I have not measured it, but eyeballin' C's in my fleet from every generation (even with other makes from '60's-'80's), and not accounting for reasons like where they wanna put exhaust pipes and such, in the rear on one side or another, there is more/less clearance between exactly the same size mounted wheel/tire combo and inner wheel opening lip.
1/4 to 1/2" or so difference driver vs pass. side -- which can make all the difference for interferences/clearances. I'd blame it on my advancing age but I been seeing this thing for 40 years.
My theory was that was designed-in somehow, vs. something that evolved over time with wear/usage of the vehicle. Since I never worked at Chrysler I couldnt confirm my theory with vehicle designers/builders at that company.
A little help?
is this an example of what you're looking for?
hey rags .. if you were referring to my post #36, my observation is tires/wheels/hard parts ALL identical, level surface, the rear passenger side seems to show a little more "sticking out" of the tire/wheel on passenger side.
Stated another way, the driver side is "tucked in" a little bit more. Naked eye looks and its obvious.
my only thought is, looking at the car from the rear, the body sits a little left relative to the L/R centerline of car.
I believe the rear axle dimension is completely bi-sected by the centerline -- exactly same axle length either side
i don't have a C example i can show in photos, but I see this all the time on my J's, no matter the wheel/tire combo . And I have measured it.
Anyway, some J photos (rears are 17x9's, 5" Bsp, on 285/40-17 tires) that kinda show my observation.
a 275/60-15 tire (28 inch tire is less than 11 inches wide itself) on a 10 inch wide rim doesn't tend to be recommended by wheel or tire manufacturers but i see people do it all the time. next closest size, 255/60-16 is a truck tire. -- never seen that size on a car.
IF you werent talking about my post #36, sorry to butt in
This is exactly what I'm fighting on my Polara, the tire rubs on sharp right turns. Just a little, but still annoying.
for me, I had 15x8 3.5 bsp Center Line Auto drags on this car, same tire, 235/70and same thing happened. hard right, sidewall rub on inner quarter edge, passenger side. same thing tho on sharp lefts. i chalked it up to be more likely a little body roll changing the angles between sheet metal and tires.
even now, with 4.0 in bsp, i can only get my fingers to my knuckles between sidewall and inner lip on pass. side. on driver side, I can get my palm in there, so about 1/4 in more clearance.
oh yeah, it aint just Mopars. 235/70, 15x7.5, 4.0 in bsp, rubbed on skirt on passenger side.