Experience Coker Repro Wheels

Marv

Senior Member
FCBO Gold Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2015
Messages
1,325
Reaction score
2,050
Location
Autobahnland
When I got my car it had some aftermarket Cragars on it which I replaced with steel wheels to use original wheelcovers.
Those steel wheels have been balanced in my local tire shop but the owner was kind of devastated when he told me he did
the best he could but it´s still not that good. Indeed I have a heavy imbalance between 55 and 70 mph which causes massive
vibrations so I´m looking for replacement.

Does anyone has experience with the repro wheels by Coker? Steel Wheels | Coker Tire®
Are they good quality or is it cheap China trash ?
Do wheelcovers have a good hold ? I heard that dog dishes don´t always work, I uses full wheelcovers.
 
Just curious as to what kind of balancer he has? Reason I inquire is that every computerized balancer I've seen will pinpoint any out-of-round and/or lateral run-out of the wheel itself, plus the tire, too, when both are together. Not to forget about "road force variation" of the wheel/tire combination. Taking some pictures/videos of the balancing process might assist with any warranty claims, I suspect. As always, documentation is key.

Those basic steel wheels can be purchased from other vendors, too, even Wheel Vintiques, which can be found directly.

Keep us posted on your progress,
CBODY67
 
ok if i follow this correctly...you put your used tires on stock steel rims and a local shop cant balance them?...so you figure you'll buy new rims from coker?...i swear i've never seen an original rim that was way out of balance and 99% of balance problems are with the tire, not the rim....obviously if the rim is bent its another story...and its also possible for a tire that has been on a car with a suspension problem to develop a wear pattern which will cause it to shake even after its been balanced and the suspension issue fixed...you can perfectly balance a square...it just wont roll when you're done...tires are either balanced or they're not...are they balancing ok and the cars still shaking or are they so far off they cant be balanced?
 
Last edited:
I use BF Goodrich Silvertown radials on original steel wheels that I acquired locally off a car that´s been sitting in that guys backyard for 2 decades.
They looked straight to me, no bends or traces of welding and only surface rust. I cleaned them with the wire brush, primed and painted them.

I don´t know what kind of balancer was used but I guess it´ll be smarter to try another tire shop first before looking to replace the wheels.
Also he put the weights on the outside lip which makes it a pain to put on the wheel covers. I wondered already if the imbalance might be the wheelcover
not sitting 100% correct on the wheel. The cover is light but since the vibration occur only at higher speed, that minor imbalance might increase
to a strong vibration at high wheel rotation speed
 
I use BF Goodrich Silvertown radials on original steel wheels that I acquired locally off a car that´s been sitting in that guys backyard for 2 decades.
They looked straight to me, no bends or traces of welding and only surface rust. I cleaned them with the wire brush, primed and painted them.

I don´t know what kind of balancer was used but I guess it´ll be smarter to try another tire shop first before looking to replace the wheels.
Also he put the weights on the outside lip which makes it a pain to put on the wheel covers. I wondered already if the imbalance might be the wheelcover
not sitting 100% correct on the wheel. The cover is light but since the vibration occur only at higher speed, that minor imbalance might increase
to a strong vibration at high wheel rotation speed

The wheel cover is not the problem. You can request to have the weights placed on the inside too.

I'd try a different tire shop. Like mentioned above, it's probably the tire and not the wheel. If a steel wheel was that much out of balance you would see it before you feel it.
 
Did I read correctly that these tires are 20 years old? If they are over 10 years old they are an accident waiting to happen. If they were supporting the weight of the car, for that long they are probably out of round.
 
Did I read correctly that these tires are 20 years old? If they are over 10 years old they are an accident waiting to happen. If they were supporting the weight of the car, for that long they are probably out of round.
no I bought the tires 2 years ago. The rims came off a car that was sitting in the pasture for 20 years
 
no I bought the tires 2 years ago. The rims came off a car that was sitting in the pasture for 20 years
Glad to hear that. You had me scared there. May I suggest removing a tire from a wheel and then putting the bare wheel on the machine and checking the wheel that way?
 
Glad to hear that. You had me scared there. May I suggest removing a tire from a wheel and then putting the bare wheel on the machine and checking the wheel that way?

well we have a German Mopar maniac on this board who proudly drives original 50 year Polyglas to be 100% original but that´s another story :lol:

yep so I´ll try a different tire shop maybe I was a little too confident with the one I used
 
I sent two sets of wheels back to Coker Tire, one set for being the wrong bolt pattern wheels, and the other for being extremely out of concentricity. Unfortunately, once you have mounted tires on the wheels, they are considered used and will not be accepted for return. I would have your tire shop check the wheels for concentricity and mount the two best in the front and check for improvement. If any wheel uses excessive weight you may need to spin the tire to a new location on the wheel.
 
I am suspecting that as all of the wheel weights are on the outside of the wheel, that they were "bubble balanced" rather than being on an electronic balancer (which has options to put the wheel weights "outside only", "inside only", or "as directed by the computer") which will also readily indicate wheel issues, too. For a bit of extra finesse, some operatives used to split the weight between the inside and outside of the steel wheel.

Just an observation . . .
CBODY67
 
I sent two sets of wheels back to Coker Tire, one set for being the wrong bolt pattern wheels, and the other for being extremely out of concentricity. Unfortunately, once you have mounted tires on the wheels, they are considered used and will not be accepted for return. I would have your tire shop check the wheels for concentricity and mount the two best in the front and check for improvement. If any wheel uses excessive weight you may need to spin the tire to a new location on the wheel.

Wow, BS Coker policy. Sorry to hear that. Now we know where not to buy wheels. :wideyed:
 
In getting ready to install new wheels (used or new), always chuck them up on an electronic tire balancer and spin them to check for lateral run-out and such BEFORE putting tires on them. Proceed as is appropriate from there. Just basic precautions.

I know that in modern times, we have become accustomed to ordering things off of the Internet, then blindly installing them when received. Usually, NO quality control verifications at that time. So that when the tire/wheel combination is done, put on the car, then road-tested, should a problem be discovered just then, the seller will automatically claim the problem was caused by the buyer, as the wheel passed all of the vendor's QC checks before it was boxed and shipped out.

Had the wheels been purchased by and shipped to the installer, directly, that can insert another operative which is knowledgeable about how to do things correctly. Which CAN work to the buyer's advantage should any problems arise. The ultimate price might be a little bit higher, but you can be effectively buying "insurance" against any possible warranty issues.

All things considered, as things have progressed over the past decade, ONE place to consider for wheel/tire installations are many new car dealerships. Why? Because over the past 25 years or so, THEY have had to upgrade their tire balancing and installing machines to handle current OEM sizes of wheels and tires. Which also means fancier electronic balancers/road force checking machines. Things get pinpointed really quickly with these machines. Additionally, whether many in the tire industry want consumers to realize it, MANY new car dealers are in the tire business. Price-matching, too, usually. Especially considering that the number of wholesale tire distributors has tended to decrease and now EVERYBODY is pulling from the same tire warehouses. There are still some warehouses which sell only to tire stores, but most sell to everybody, by observation. So, you get a consistently high level of equipment and people who should be trained to use them. NOT to forget their leverage should a bad product be received.

I might be a little bit flakey as to "over-shopping" things well before I decide to spend money, the closer you can get to the ultimate source of a part, the better off you might be should any issues arise, by observation. In the case of wheels, Summit and Jegs can probably work well, too. Especially IF you are close enough to go get them yourself. Just de-escalate your excitement enough to get the tire shop to check them before installation. Videos of any issuses might help, too. Along with an immediate phone call to Tech Assistance! Any issues need to be resolved as soon as possible, for best results for all involved.

Corky Coker has been in the tire/wheel business and the vintage car hobby since at least the earlier 1980s, if that might matter. But that also means that they do many of their own tires, now, but do not expect that everything they might do is perfect. Just as any other business, they probably have learned from past mistakes, which can be reflected in their current policies and such. So, before summarily condemning then for anything, consider how things look on the other side of the road, from their point of orientation. And what YOU would do if you were in their place. In the current economic climate, everybody wants to make and retain customers, IF possible.

We choose to spend our money where we might desire. In the case of wheels and other car parts, many vendors can sell the same part at different prices and such (check prices on eBay, for example). So getting as close to the ONE original producer can help, many times. BUT also do not believe that when a vendor claims "lowest prices" for any part that the ultimate purchase price is really the best price (even if the shipping is "free"). Diligent shopping is necessary, no matter what. AND, or course, to be safe, read their "Return Policy" from one end to the other.

Happy Shopping!
CBODY67
 
Back
Top