Bearings werent too terrible but had decent amount of grit embedded into them. Crank should polish up nicely.
Finally my own '70 Sport Fury GT
- Thread starter 67valiant 100
- Start date
Number 5 main cap left the factory with a 0.001 undersize bearing. This corresponds with the Maltese cross stamp on the ID pad.
Bite the bullet and decided to pull the pistons out to do a thorough job cleaning the sludge/carbon buildup from the block. Few cans of oven cleaner and a power washer worked wonders.
Cleaned & dried off. Covered the block with WD-40 Gel right after to prevent flash rust.
Cleaned & dried off. Covered the block with WD-40 Gel right after to prevent flash rust.
Ran a 3 stone hone through cylinder 1 to see what I have to work with. Pretty big ring shadow. A quick check with some feeler gauges & an old ring showed some pretty significant bore taper. At this point I pretty much made up my mind to send the block to the machine shop for a 30 overbore.
Before it goes to the machine shop I spent a little time with the carbide bur to remove all the excess flashing from the block. The machine shop will give it another thorough cleaning along with the oil galleries.
you knew, we knew, everyone knew that it would end up in a full resto. One just can´t start without diggin deeper and deeper until every nut and bolt goes through your hand
But ultimately you will end up with a rare, reliable car everyone is jealous of
But ultimately you will end up with a rare, reliable car everyone is jealous of
Speaking of rare, I recently scooped up another Plymouth Ive had on my list since forever! 1 of 82ish 4 speed Valiant Signets made for '67. And its an E-code 273 Commando car!
My 1st mopar (& 1st car!) was a '67 Valiant 100 2dr red on red with a /6. Being very partial to the '67-'69 Valiants (and A-bodies in general) I always knew these cars existed but only ever seen a hand full of pictures on the web. When this one popped up and it was for sale I jumped on the opportunity to aquire such a unicorn. And its green like the SFGT!
Last edited:
thrashingcows
Senior Member
I love F8 green cars, one of my favorite colours! Congrats on the Valiant...that will be a fun little car for sure!
if a car is that rare you need to pull the trigger when the opportunity comes. keeps you busy :-D
Dropped the GTs 440 off at the machine shop at the beginning of April along with a set of heavy but budget friendly Speed Pro L2355F "six pack" pistons & new cam bearings. Stopped by last weekend and snapped a couple of pictures. They just got done boring it 30 over. Rods have also been shot peened, ARP bolts installed & resized. Hopefully by August Ill have the short block back.
USSMOPAR
Active Member
fury fan
Senior Member
Based on your love for this GT I'm surprised you were driving it around like this.
Rodents makes nests there, and the urine eats at the valley pan.
I've seen at least one engine with hte valley pan rusted thru and nest material and seed shells in the lifter valley.
Congrats on the Valiant, that is a cool score for sure.
Rodents makes nests there, and the urine eats at the valley pan.
I've seen at least one engine with hte valley pan rusted thru and nest material and seed shells in the lifter valley.
Congrats on the Valiant, that is a cool score for sure.
Machine shop finished the short block and I was able to pick it up last week! Bored .030 over, crank was cut .010/.010, rods reconditioned with ARP rod bolts, Speed Pro L2355F forged 6 pack pistons to keep the compression up, and rotating assembly balanced. Have it drowned in wd40 & wrapped up for now as I dont have any time to finish assembling it till at least mid September.
Still deciding if I want to put the original cam back in, upgrade to a stock HP cam, or go a little more radical.
Still deciding if I want to put the original cam back in, upgrade to a stock HP cam, or go a little more radical.
70NEWYORKER
Well-Known Member
I used the wd40 GEL. Its good stuff that doesnt evaporate. Have a 413 block sitting here for the last year and half covered in it an still looks like the day I hosed it down!
fury fan
Senior Member
You can also put some oil diluted with WD40 in a spray bottle.
A gallon can of WD40 and a good-quality Zep spray bottle is a definite cost savings for higher-volume users.
Upgrade the cam, a GT deserves something much better than stock.
IIRC the cam in '70 would be the 350hp cam, which is either identical or very similar to that used in 361 and 383 2-barrels. (very tame!)
The Lunati 62302 and 62303 are both good choices.
The Summit K6400 and 6401 also have glowing reviews for mild 383 and 440s.
From my extensive reading, you couldn't go wrong with any of those 4.
Here's some reading:
Lunati voodoo cam (60301 and 60302) and 440-4
Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet - Chrysler 361-440 262/268
Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet - Chrysler 361-440 268/276
A gallon can of WD40 and a good-quality Zep spray bottle is a definite cost savings for higher-volume users.
Upgrade the cam, a GT deserves something much better than stock.
IIRC the cam in '70 would be the 350hp cam, which is either identical or very similar to that used in 361 and 383 2-barrels. (very tame!)
The Lunati 62302 and 62303 are both good choices.
The Summit K6400 and 6401 also have glowing reviews for mild 383 and 440s.
From my extensive reading, you couldn't go wrong with any of those 4.
Here's some reading:
Lunati voodoo cam (60301 and 60302) and 440-4
Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet - Chrysler 361-440 262/268
Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet - Chrysler 361-440 268/276
Ordered the last few bits I need hopefully to start reassembling the 440. Parts from Summit, eBay, & FBBO should all be here later this week.
Finally had time to roll out the 440. Looks just as nice as the day I covered it almost a year ago. The wd40 gel really is great stuff for storing parts.
Picked up some 30+ year old NOS Johnson lifters off the B-bodies site. Dont trust the new stuff made theses days... They had some very light surface rust from years of sitting on a shelf so I took them apart and gave them an overnight soak in evaporust which cleaned them up perfectly. Put a coat of light oil to keep the flash rust away.
Originally I intended to run an NOS Sealed Power CS-661 HP replacement grind I had kicking around. But a few build changes led me to give Dwayne Porter over at PRH a ring for a cam recommendation. He spec'd out a Crower grind for me that should work well with my combo. Crower was out of single bolt cam cores till at least August but fortunately Dwayne mention to ask about 3 bolt cores which they did still have a few in stock.
Picked up some 30+ year old NOS Johnson lifters off the B-bodies site. Dont trust the new stuff made theses days... They had some very light surface rust from years of sitting on a shelf so I took them apart and gave them an overnight soak in evaporust which cleaned them up perfectly. Put a coat of light oil to keep the flash rust away.
Originally I intended to run an NOS Sealed Power CS-661 HP replacement grind I had kicking around. But a few build changes led me to give Dwayne Porter over at PRH a ring for a cam recommendation. He spec'd out a Crower grind for me that should work well with my combo. Crower was out of single bolt cam cores till at least August but fortunately Dwayne mention to ask about 3 bolt cores which they did still have a few in stock.
Stopped at the Ohio Summit Racing store (was literally right off the highway and always wanted to visit one) on my way back from Kentucky. Incredible showroom and well worth stopping! Picked up a Cloyes 3 bolt double roller timing kit & Steve grabbed a fresh set of Radial TA tires for the convertible since we had almost had a blowout with one of them on the way home from Carlisle last year (they looked great but were REALLY old).
Piston stop set to 0.200 in the hole to find true 0* to set the degree wheel.
Gutted a hydraulic lifter and shoved a bolt in to take measurements. Took a bit of playing with the crank sprocket to get the cam dialed in with a 3* opening & 108* ILC. LSA measured out to 111.5* & lobe lifts were right on the money.
Piston stop set to 0.200 in the hole to find true 0* to set the degree wheel.
Gutted a hydraulic lifter and shoved a bolt in to take measurements. Took a bit of playing with the crank sprocket to get the cam dialed in with a 3* opening & 108* ILC. LSA measured out to 111.5* & lobe lifts were right on the money.
Similar threads
