First ride and few questions

Thank for the compliments. Not sure if the bowl vent is obstructed, but will check (BTW where is vent located on Edelbrocks?). It does require open throttle and longer cranking when hot. The carb was completely taken apart, and soaked in carb cleaner can, full rebuild kit installed. I can smell gas under the hood after car sits for 10 min. I will be taking the intake off and blocking the heat cross over - what is the bets way to do this? I also made a heat shield out of thin aluminum sheet last night and will be installing it with 1/8" gasket.

tbm3fan said:
I first put the 13" Dynomax Super Turbo on my car. That was a mistake. Couldn't stand driving the car between 30-50 mph. Switched them to 20" Super Turbo and the problem went away. Using a 2 1/4" dual system.
Click to expand...

For my configuration (offset inlet, center outlet, 2.5") I found only one option with 14" body length and actually ordered it at Pep Boys for $35 a piece. Will be picking up today. If that does not work I will try either Flowmaster 50 series or 70 series.
 
superfragl said:
Thank for the compliments. Not sure if the bowl vent is obstructed, but will check (BTW where is vent located on Edelbrocks?). It does require open throttle and longer cranking when hot. The carb was completely taken apart, and soaked in carb cleaner can, full rebuild kit installed. I can smell gas under the hood after car sits for 10 min. I will be taking the intake off and blocking the heat cross over - what is the bets way to do this? I also made a heat shield out of thin aluminum sheet last night and will be installing it with 1/8" gasket.



For my configuration (offset inlet, center outlet, 2.5") I found only one option with 14" body length and actually ordered it at Pep Boys for $35 a piece. Will be picking up today. If that does not work I will try either Flowmaster 50 series or 70 series.
Click to expand...

You should keep in mind that when these cars were new, they did not have trouble hot-restarting. I have an Edelbrock 4bbl on a 400 with open heat crossovers, and no problems with hot restarts. Before you go through the work of replacing the intake, I would do much more by way of problem solving. The gaskets with blocked heat crossovers are for getting that last amount of power from an engine, they were not created to solve heat soak issues. Long cranking with an open throttle means flooding. You need to see why gas is pushing through the jets vs. venting to the atmosphere.

I'd try warming it up, remove the air cleaner, then let it heat soak. Try a restart. If it seems to fire easier, your probably on to the issue. What is your climate/weather?
 
I still think that heat crossovers do contribute to hot start problem and many folks reported that blocking it off improves the situation. The main reason for crossover is to make the engine run better in cold temperatures. I do not see how it affects the power level.. (cold air - more mixture can be pushed in?)
Gas might not be pushing through jets but rather evaporating and staying in the air cleaner area (I can be wrong here) and therefore making the mixture very rich. There is a very strong gas smell after the car sits for a while. With the air cleaner removed it does seem to start easier. What does that mean?
It was about 75-80 degrees outside when I faced this hot start issue.
Next day after I parked the car - I checked the carb and there was still gas in it..
 
For my configuration (offset inlet, center outlet, 2.5") I found only one option with 14" body length and actually ordered it at Pep Boys for $35 a piece. Will be picking up today. If that does not work I will try either Flowmaster 50 series or 70 series.
Click to expand...

I see that Dynomax mufflers are reversible so there is a 20" option for me.
 
superfragl said:
For my configuration (offset inlet, center outlet, 2.5") I found only one option with 14" body length and actually ordered it at Pep Boys for $35 a piece. Will be picking up today. If that does not work I will try either Flowmaster 50 series or 70 series.
Click to expand...

Exactly what a 20" dynomax is in either 2.25", 2.50" and 3.00" sizes.
20"
Super Turbo™ - Centered / Offset - P/N: 17748

14"
Super Turbo™ - Offset / Centered - P/N: 17733

both offset inlet and centered outlet despite what the links description says.
 
Tuesday night I pulled the carb and intake, installed FelPro valley pan with crossover ports blocked off. Then made aluminum heat shield and sandwiched it between two of these - Edelbrock 9267, Edelbrock Heat Insulator Gasket | Edelbrock- and installed the carb on top.

Started installing 20" Dynomax mufflers last night. Nothing went right... They are 8" longer than Summit ones, had to cut the pipes. Now the angle is different... nothing fits... In the end I dropped tailpipe on my foot.. did not finish even one side and called it a day. Once in a while i get days like this and the best thing to do - just leave it alone. Next day everything goes smooth and trouble free.
Pictures and results to follow
 
Hmm, my first ones were 13" and then went back three weeks later to change them out to the 20". The shop had it done in under 30 minutes as the space is there, and we just needed to shorten the pipes, mainly the inlet.
 
Beautiful car!!!

As to hot starting problems- Get the car up to operating temp with the air cleaner on. Shut it off and let it sit for a few minutes, pull the air cleaner. Look down the carb an see what it looks like.
Is it wet or dry?

I have had an Edelbrock that "perculated" gas out the jets into the carb, making it rich on restart. The quickest way to start it was open the throttle and crankthe engine to clear out the excess fuel.

On my 63 Fury with a 750 Eelbrock, it doesn't dribble, it actually evaporates any fuel left from shutting it down.When you look own into the carb, it is dry. The best way to get that car to restart hot, I just give it 1/4 pump, just enough to get a little squirt of gas and it fires right up.


I hope this helps you, if you know if you are fighting a lean or rich condition, you won't be chasing your tail.

PS exhaust shops are money well spent. I'm pulling my 40 series as well and going to a turbo type.
 
Update. No more hot start issues. Starts fine every time with no excessive cranking.
Dynomax turbo mufflers sound great!! they are 20" long and I can talk when car is idling. I will take a video and post later. Have to take care of leaking new wheel brake cylinder (did not last even two rides).
Made a few rides and overall car ran great, except one situation - when pulling out of a parking lot it stalled. Started right up and ran fine after. Not sure where to look for a problem..
 
Carb was rebuilt and floats level was set properly. I am suspicious it could be ignition switch because it stalled instantly, not like it was running out of gas. Or it could be ignition module. I will drive it more and see if it happens again.
 
My stalling issue happened again. As I was coming to a traffic light the motor stalled. Tried to start a few times - nothing... I have found one spark plug wire hanging (because of the exhaust heat the air between the wire boot and spark plug expanded pushing the cap off). Once I put the wire back on - it fired up and ran fine. Later when parked I tried pulling one wire off the distributor cap and for some cylinders engine still ran but very erratic and for others it stalled immediately. That was surprising...
I am thinking this could happen because I have 22 degrees initial timing, or maybe because I am using multi-spark ignition module Mallory 6a. Any ideas?
Anyway, I re-seated all wires when hot and the problem never came back.

I promised to post Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers sound. I have a veeery short video here, but it is noticeable quieter than Summit racing mufflers.


Also, I have a slight whistle when idling (you can hear it in the video) - I have found that PCV valve is the cause. Anyone seen this before?
 
Stock compression ratio?

Check your mechanical distributor weights
They may be stuck...
 
CR is 9.6:1, distributor has been rebuilt and recurved. I am actually very happy the way the motor runs.
 
Oh and check your harmonic balancer
If it has spun a bit from a backfire it would throw the marks off

I'm a fan of vacuum timing myself
 
The balancer has been verified when the motor was built.
By saying vacuum timing you mean setting idle advance using vacuum?
 
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