floor rust passenger side on newport possible causes?

I've removed the evap core and heater core on a previous 73. No need to remove dash at all. You might want to remove the cardboard glove box for better access. Info on doing it is in the FSM.

A word about drainage, fenders, cowls and leaves... I lost my original 73 wagon to rust in the cowl and unibody where the fender meets the unibody "frame" due to leaves and the resulting poor drainage. By the time I figured it out it was too late.

Check the cowl first. The vertical surfaces under the windshield were difficult to get paint to trough the two vent/access holes on the top. Likewise, leaves and debris can clog the main drain under the wiper motor to make for a perfect storm of rust at the weld between the upper and lower cowl panels. Same issue can easily occurs at the base of the fender near the door.

Your car car looks to be in good shape other than the passenger floor next to the vent.

hope this helps.
 
Hey all, it took a lot longer then I thought to get the 383 unstuck in the old gal but after about 3 weeks of soaking the cylinders with diesel and deep creep I got it to turn. 1 valve was also stuck but I got that sorted out pretty quick. I cant believe this thing came back to life and with about 2 hours of running under its belt she runs like a champ.
I haven't gotten to pulling the dash as I have to split up my time with my 67 charger which is also coming along nicely and it seems like it rains every bloody weekend! but today is the day I will start pulling the dash on the old gal. I would really rather avoid pulling the windshield as it has a chip in it with an approx. 1mm crack on either side of it that will for sure travel if I start to muscle the glass out.
So will I have to remove the fender to get at the outer heater box bolts?
 
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