front brake hose removal - tips needed

[70Tom]

I need to replace my front brake hoses before putting my suspension back together. The hose is removed from the backing plate. It's still connected to the bracket and brake lines. It's a 70 SF and a drum brake car.

I was wondering if anyone had any tips/strategy/sequence of events for removing them. They're somewhat rusty, but not horrible. I just don't want to destroy the brake line and have to replace the whole thing.

thanks.

 

[Big_John]

Use a flare nut wrench.

 

[70Tom]

Use a flare nut wrench.

View attachment 145204

3/8", I believe?

 

[bigmoparjeff]

Yes, 3/8"

Keep a close eye on the steel line as you are loosening the nut. If the line is twisting with the nut, remove the metal clip that secures the hose, pop it out of the bracket and turn the hose while holding the nut still. You may have to let all the brake fluid run out, then heat the nut up a bit with a propane torch to free it up. If that fails to work, you'll have to replace the metal line.

Now's the time to switch over to silicone fluid too.

Jeff

 

[70Tom]

Thanks. Much appreciated.

 

[Davea Lux]

Most auto parts sell a spray can of "Freeze Off". This stuff works well for for freeing up rusted brake parts. Sometimes a square jawed vice grips will be necessary to loosen a flare nut that has rounded corners. I do not like using heat on a brake line as this degrades the strength of metal tubing.

Dave

 

[mrfury68]

Soak it with PB Blaster a day or two before hand. Put the line wrench on & tap the wrench at the flare nut with a small hammer & then try working it loose. Good luck.

 

[Davea Lux]

Soak it with PB Blaster a day or two before hand. Put the line wrench on & tap the wrench at the flare nut with a small hammer & then try working it loose. Good luck.

That also works

 

[cantflip]

Use a flare nut wrench.

View attachment 145204

You need a better flare nut wrench than Crapsman ever produced... I would give those away if I still had them.

Lots of good advise here, but if it were me... I tend to stay away from penetrating oils on brake components, they can work fine, but there is a slight risk of contamination of you aren't careful. Brake fluid isn't as effective, but may work and you have zero risk.

I start a questionable fitting by tightening a few degrees and then loosening a few degrees. Work the flare nut so it might come loose from the steel line. If the line twists, just make a new one... cheap to do and not really that hard with a little practice.

A big trick when replacing a part, like your hose. Cut the hose and wind it off of the line, keep all of your destruction to the part being replaced. You may be able to free the flare nut after removal of the hose, or you may be able to wind the new hose onto the flare nut if frozen. This is often used for wheel cylinders that have a frozen flare nut and is almost always successful... if you don't twist the line before you get to this method. A slight twist when tightening isn't the end of the world, but with mild steel too many twist cycles and you have a crack.

 

[70Tom]

Luckily, I got them off without breaking the lines. Thanks for the tips guys.