Front end rebuild kit '74 Fury

[Seb'74]

Hi Friends,
I'm up to purchase front end rebuild kit for my '74 Fury Gran Sedan, but I'd like to have good techs' opinion about the kits. Here are 3 links :
Link 1 (EBay) : Performance Rubber Suspension Rebuild Kit - Front End Plymouth Fury 1974 | eBay
Link 2 (EBay) : Standard front end kit 1974 Plymouth Fury | eBay
Link 3 (EBay) : Steering Linkage Kit Plymouth Fury 1974 | eBay

Links 1 and 2 are for front end rebuild kit (1 "performance" and 1 standart), and link 3 is about steering linkage kit.
My question is, are those kit worthy to purchase, do they seem to be good stuff, or not? It's not easy to find here in France good parts when your car is not a Mustang or a Corvette...
All advices are welcome, especialy if you have other tips! Thanks mopar men! ;)

 

[CBODY67]

My question might be "Do you really NEED all of that stuff?" What kind of issues are you trying to address? Just curious.

Personally, I think I'd lean more toward one of the normal supply sources (PST, RockAuto, Espo Springs and Things, etc.) than an eBay seller. This way, you know the BRAND of the items you're getting and might end up with better stuff and possibly a price that is similar. BUT, you might not be able to "kit" it per se, but use individual items instead.

In general, seek out OEM-quality parts AT THE MINIMUM and OEM-type brands, when possible. Considering that Chrysler upsized the rubber items on the '74-'78 C-body cars from what they had been on earlier models, quality robber bushings should be plenty good. Polyurethane bushings have their place (like sway bar end links or possibly upper control arm pivot bushings), but the load-bearing bushings are probably best when done in rubber. A larger rubber bushing of stiffer rubber can have the same compliance as a smaller bushing of softer rubber.

The other thing is that Chrysler knew they had big fleet accounts with law enforcement agencies, so how their cars were designed and spec'd for the basic vehicle tended to reflect this. One reason the "quality OEM-spec" items should work fine, from my perspective.

One thing which might be considered in this mix is the condition of the front wheel bearings? Strut rod bushings?

Again, just curious as to what issues you're seeking to fix with this "rebuild".

Thanks,
CBODY67

 

[Polaraco]

The most important thing you can do is replace the lower bushings. They are the first to go. The best ones I ever got came from Justsuspensions, but I think they are gone now. Yoo bad, they were a 50 year old company. True Moog is the second choice. TRW is third, but I believe they are out of that biz.
They're not that hard to do, but you need a press. If you haven't the extraction tool, a torch will work, but messy.

Every car I've ever restored or refurbished, that is the #1 item to replace. You'd be amazed how much a difference it makes in the handling and the ride. After 40/50 years, they're done

 

[CBODY67]

Those lower control arm pivot bushings are also where the front of the torsion bar indexes, so the bars will need to be removed (there's a special tool for that, too!). Mark the bars so they can be put back in in the same orientation to the rear mounting (might need some new seal boots back there, plus the correct "grease" for corrosion protection). Be sure to keep them for the side they were removed from, too.

Like any rubber, weight-bearing bushing, they can "settle out" and affect alignment settings, with time.

CBODY67

 

[Polaraco]

Exactly. BTW, the orientation doesn't matter. But the left and right does. I forget which side is even and odd now. Last set I di were in Polaraco in 06. But I suspect I'll be redoing them on my 62 again soon. It's just hit the road after 15 years.

 

[Seb'74]

Thank you CBODY67, that's exactley what I meant to say, actually I don't know the brand of the stuff, I don't know if it is good stuff or not. I'll have a precise look at Rockauto and other sites.
The problems to be fixed are some knocks and klongs sometimes in the front end. It sure comes from some bushings, rods or other stuff, but as I did not lift the car for the moment, I don't know where it exactly comes from. Wheel bearings are OK, I chekced them when I replaced discs and pads last year, there is no play in the front wheels.
But the car does not go straight, I continuously have to adjust with the steering wheel, left then right, then left, then right...
That kind of kit was for me the good way to have a complete set of parts, and have the whole front end refurbished. After 40+ years, I think the car deserves it...
But It sure does not need to get all the parts replaced, some are still good.

BTW, Rockauto says for 1974 "Fury" and Gran Fury". I thought the name Gran Fury was officialy used only for 75 and later cars, isn't it? Up to 74, Fury 1, 2 and 3, and Gran Coupe/ Gran Sedan (my one) were the names. What's your opinion? When selected "Fury", only Fury 1, 2 and 3 are listed in the parts lists, even with the adequate choice of engines (400 M engine for me).

 

[1970cat]

Control Arms Ball Joints Steering | JustSuspension.com

 

[Polaraco]

The sights still there, but they're not responding to orders.

 

[Polaraco]

Sounds like maybe a bad pitman arm or Idler arm, more likely

 

[CBODY67]

It's possible that there might be some bushing issues, BUT they would deteriorate slowly rather than otherwise. When you look at where the steering column attaches to the gear box, when you turn the steering wheel, does the column move up and down? If it does, that's where your slack probably is . . . AND there's an adjustment at that location (with appropriate special tools). Adjusting the nut on top of the gear doesn't always adjust out all of the "slack", but if it's too tight, the wheel will not self-return from a turn.

If it was ONE tie rod end, you could determine that if you try to turn the wheel side -to-side by hand, front end jacked up.

When the idler arm on my '66 Newport got "wear", cornering performance was decreased, plus a slight pop when I'd run over expansion joints.

I understand the reasoning behind getting "a kit", but I also have seen that just replacing everything, needed or not, sometimes doesn't really fix anything and can also cause more problems than you were trying to get rid of. One reason to see where that much "slack" is and address that issue only, first. I know the rubber bushings can settle with age, but what you describe seems more to be gearbox-related than not, to me.

My '70 Monaco seemed to have too much on-center "slack", but everything checked out normally. Except what I mentioned on the input side of the gearbox. My local dealership techs didn't want to deal with it, saying it's "not adjustable", but the service manual indicated otherwise. So, they didn't want to mess with it, possibly "snake-bit" by something like that in their prior history. Otherwise, the car drove straight and would generally go where it was desired to go, just a little more action with the steering wheel.

Just some thoughts and experiences,
CBODY67

 

[Seb'74]

You're right CBODY67, prior to anything, it would be better to jack up the car and see where I can find plays or bad shape elements, and then I'll replace the bad parts, one by one,
Thanks for all your advises

 

[Polaraco]

Those lower bushings are quicker than you think. First of all, the Ozone gets to them, and they are the primary swivel for the suspension. Leave a bad shock in there, or a inadequate one and they will collapse very quickly. If they are over 15 years old, be gone with them. The same goes with brake hoses.

Cbarge and the boys can tell you I've been doing this a good week and a half, + 55 years.