1. Shorty65

    Shorty65 New Member

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    ok so been doing a bunch of things to my 65 sport fury. So my next step is making my fuel gauge work right. I am trying to figure out what size nut goes on the sending unit stud due to the fact that I have to put a regular wire connector on since the factory connector was broken off at some point before I owned the car. My next question is how do I ground the tank I used thin rubber to act as the insulator between tank and bottom of floor. I should also note the battery gauage does work but the fuel and temperature aren’t.
     
  2. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    The tank straps supply some grounding. There is also a ground strap that goes from the sending unit to the fuel line. There are several vendors making replacements. Your '65 sport fury should have a plug in cluster voltage regulator on the back of the instrument cluster and these frequently fail on cars that sit a lot. Take a test light to the wire for the gas gauge, ground the test light and you should get a blinking test light with the ignition on. If the light does not blink, most likely the cluster regulator has failed, also check the instrument fuse to be sure it is not burned out. If the test light blinks, you probably have a bad temperature sending unit and possibly a bad fuel tank sending unit as well. Modern moonshine fuels eat the solder joints on the float for the tank unit and the float fills with fuel and it stays on the bottom of the tank. Do not know the size of the threads on the fuel tank sending unit. Both the temp gauge and the fuel gauge run off the instrument cluster regulator. If you google Mopar Fuel tank ground strap, that item should come up for sale on E-Bay and from multiple other sources. Standard Electric still makes the cluster regulator and www.rockauto.com stocks most of them

    Dave
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2018
  3. Shorty65

    Shorty65 New Member

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    I have a new fuel sending unit put in. I stripped the wire that goes to the sending unit and with the key on grounded it but no go to get gauge to move. I’ll try the steps you suggested in the move, thanks
     
  4. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    I think that's a 10-24 or possibly a 10-32 nut.

    You can ground it with a clip on strap that straddles the short rubber hose connecting the tank to the lines. That grounds to the lines though and a better solution (what I did) is to solder some sort of connector to the face of the sender and run a wire to the frame.

    DBiTpcR.jpg
     
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  5. Shorty65

    Shorty65 New Member

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    I had the grounded strap on but when I ran new fuel lines I used clamps with rubber that hold the fuel line to the body so might not work on the line like it would the factory lines
     
  6. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    You can temporarily ground the sending unit with alligator clips to see if it makes any difference.
    The clamps that come with a new fuel filter can be substituted for the factory clamps with good results as far as putting the ground strap back on.

    Dave
     
  7. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Standard Electric part number at rock auto for cluster regulator VRC601.

    Dave
     
  8. Shorty65

    Shorty65 New Member

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    Ok so I pulled the gauge cluster for the temp, fuel, and battery loose still in car I put my test light and grounded fuel and alternator gauage and got good blinks from my test light. So I’m thinking I have a bad temperature gauge and need to work on a good ground for the fuel sending unit. I may just buy a new cluster regulator when I buy the new gauge to be safe. Also the two post that come off the back is the gauge missing a wire? I guess my next step is to remove the gauges from the car and bench test them

    71AD05B3-971C-4541-B14E-5D4195FBA9AE.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2018
  9. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    I would pull out the cluster since you are going to need to anyway and check the circuit pathways to the gauges with an ohm meter to test for continuity. The cluster regulator is about a $25 item so probably a good idea. You should be able to test the temp gauge with a continuity tester.

    Dave
     
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  10. Shorty65

    Shorty65 New Member

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    Ok I have the gauge cluster out and pulled completely apart tested continuity between all point on the gauges and shows I have it between all points. I have good 12 volts coming into car at the alternator gauge lugs on back of cluster. So next step?
     
  11. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Test the continuity of the fuel and temp gauges themselves if you have not done so, if they are good, install the new cluster regulator and put it back together enough to get the wiring to the cluster hooked up, your problem lies elsewhere. Once it is back together, ground out the temp gauge at the sensor on the block, that should peg the gauge at the hot reading. If that happens you have a bad sending unit in the block and you will need to find a new one. Next try the same thing with the lead to the gas tank, when it is grounded, it should peg the gauge to full. Do not leave the key on for a long time doing this test as you can burn out the gauges pegging them under full load. If you do not have a circuit to one or the other of the two gauges, there is a bad connection someplace. Try the above tests and report back.

    Dave

     
  12. Shorty65

    Shorty65 New Member

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    Isn’t that behind my fuel gauge do I have to drill out the rivets to get to it
     
  13. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    If yo
    If you are talking about the cluster regulator, most '65's have a plug in type. Look at the pins on the fuel gauge, if there are three of them, your gauge has the cluster regulator built into it and it has to be replaced as a unit with the fuel gauge. Those units are obsolete so if that is the case, leave it alone, and try the ground out tests to the two sensors.

    Dave
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2018
  14. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    If you were talking about testing the temp and fuel gauge sensors, the temp sensor is is on the front of the block, unhook it and use an alligator clip to ground it to test the gauge. Same for the fuel gauge sensor.

    Dave
     
  15. Shorty65

    Shorty65 New Member

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    Ok finally got some time this morning in the garage. Im number 1 for my heating and cooling company so been busy and no time to test gauges with the weather turning cold. I grounded both the temp and fuel at the back of the gauge and both needles moved to full when I turned the key to on.
     
  16. Shorty65

    Shorty65 New Member

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    So I got the right but to fit the fuel sending unit and boom went up and stopped at about half a tank which is about right for the amount I’ve put in. And since the temp worked when I grounded it guess I have to find the temp gauge sensor on the block and see if it’s working properly
     
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  17. Shorty65

    Shorty65 New Member

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    51305B06-0382-4C64-95CF-64032A7A9392.jpeg Is this the sending unit for temperature
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2018
  18. Shorty65

    Shorty65 New Member

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    Well ordered a new one now that gauges are working time to move onto getting the windows going
     
  19. Polara_500

    Polara_500 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    That one's oil pressure.
    This one's water.
    upload_2018-10-21_15-37-43.png
     
  20. Shorty65

    Shorty65 New Member

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    Hmm I’ll have to look again I grounded the wire to the one in picture and temp gauge was moving maybe I messed something up