Fuel Storage (Gas) Suggestions/Experience

[BigblueC]

I'm tired of doing the 5 gal can shuffle so I'm looking into to storing some fuel, non-ethenol pump gas to be specific. I have a supply/choice of 55 gal drums available to me (metal that shipped ink or plastic that shipped an industrial solvent). I expect 55 gal to supply me for 3-4 months at most so I'm not trying to store fuel for a year.

I do keep diesel fuel in a plastic drum like this for my tractor and have done so for many years with no issues, but I have never kept gas, so I'm interested in y'alls opinions and experience on how to go about this and keep everything safe. And before someone suggest a "google" search, I have, and there's a lot varying information out there. So I'm hoping for some real world experience here.

 

[CBODY67]

Other than local Fire Codes, the issue is how long you're going to go between replenishments? IF the reason for this is to get non-E fuel or if it's based more on octane rating for your vehicle(s)? Plus how temperature-stable the storage locatioin might be?

I found a great explanatin of fuel storage on the old Phillips66 Race Fuel website, about 20 years ago. Of course, the drum/copntainter must be capable of being "tightly sealed". One obvious reason for this is to minimize latent combustible vapors, but the other issue is that as the fuel might evaporate, the "more aromatic" portions of the fuel will evaporate first, which includes a good bit of the octane enhancers. Even if it might be "internal evaporation" in a part-full sealed container. Otherwise, the P66 website generally had a "30 days" best use recommentation, although in an tightly-sealed container, it could be more like 6 months or longer.

Some blends of higher-octane fuel typically had ethanol in them as an octane enhancer, which would be a smaller percentage than when it is used as a "fuel extended/oxygenate" additive now. Most everybody is now keyed upon the 'Can contain Ethanol up to ___%", which can be a state labelling situation, but not all states have this rule. End result, many "E-free" fuels can still have a small amount of E in them, but finding out just how much might be tricky. How much "phase separation" can, as a result, be variable, when the fuel is exposed to atmospheric moisture.

The "temperature stability" of the storage location is a factor, too. Other than just the normal hot/cold temps resulting in expansion/contraction of the container (even a steel drum), such temp swings can result in internal condensate forming on the uncovered internal surface area not touched by liquid fuel, just as in a vehicle's fuel tank. "Dilution" and especially "phase separation" can result.

On the www.fuel-kits.com website, there used to be a procedure to "wash" ethanol from fuel. Effectively introducing water into the fuel, lettig it react to the ethanol, then draining off the "top" and leaving the ethanol/water combination at the bottom (phase separation) for safe, approved disposal. As I recall, this would result in a gasoline which was about 4 "numbers" less octane than when it started? Plus a bit more refined method to determine the possible ethanol percentage which the fuel started with?

In any potential gasoline which will be stored, check the MSDS for its "Flash Point" rating. I suspect it'll be higher than the typical ambient temp for your area, BUT that does not mean it might evaporate from an open container. Hopefully the storage venue will have good normal ventilation so that any evaporated vapors will be moved away from the container regularly, rather than allowing any vapors to accumulate and then possibly ignite.

Other than the fuel expansion/contraction issues, the fuel volatility issues can make storing less-volatile diesel fuel a good bit different than long-term storage of more volatile gasoline products.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[Sixpactogo]

Are you talking racing fuel or pump gas? I have not had any experience with gasoline going bad within 6 months. I fill my collector vehicle tanks with premium non ethanol fuel when I put them away for winter. Add an appropriate amount of Sta-Bil and never had an issue. Stored properly, I can't imagine you having any problems other than expansion and or evaporation over a three month period. A bottle of Sta-Bil in a 50 gallon barrel wouldn't hurt.

 

[CBODY67]

Being that this was a "racing fuel" website, then-run by an active gasoline producer, it's based on a "fuel-only" orientation. At the time it was presented, the use of Sta-bil (or similar) had not yet become a significant issue for most people, nor had the "cons" of ethanol'd gasoline in marine or automotive applications.

Several years later, Phillips66 sold its racing fuel business to a different company. When sold, their quality control was highly-regarded as was the quality and consistency of their products. I don't recall who bought that business, but I suspect that they (or other racing fuel producers) probably have similar FAQs on their website as to fuel storage issues with their products.

I believe that some racing fuels can now be purchased in "small" barrells of 15 Gallons, rather than the normal 55 Gallon unit? Even the 55 gallon units being shipped by normal "motor freight" services. Local drag strips, or even some "roudy-round" tracks typically have race fuel vendors on-site during their races, as some high-perf shops might also sell limited amounts of race gas to customers.

In my various lookings-around, the use of emergency gasoline-fueled electric generators were discovered. Which led to some products that could re-vitalize the gasoline used to run them, yearly. In more recent times, it appears that CNG is a far better way to fuel them.

Those blogs mentioned a product that was available in the camping world realm of things. Plus Bell Performance with a product, too.

Several years ago, when the problems with E10 had become very well-distributed, in an AACA Forum, a carb rebuilder from the midwest offered his shop's experience with carbs which had been "Sta-bil" affected. His caution was that he once got in a customer's carb off of a '60s Corvette (IIRC) that had sat long enough for the fuel in the float bowl to evaporate. He noted that the float bowl and all fuel circuits were "red" (the color of the Sta-bil product at the time). He also noted that the red coating was very difficult to remove, which can be good for protection, but "bad" for the rebuild/cleaning processes. His message was "Don't let the float bowl dry out." Which should mean that the entire fuel system remain "wet" as the vehicle is stored.

In another thread prior to that, in the same forum, the use of ethanol-resistant mechanical fuel pump diaphrams was mentioned. Including a vintage fuel pump rebuilder that used such materials in his re-built fuel pumps. Later, a post appeared that althought that newer material was "ethanol-resistant", it was not "ethanol-proof". With the further explanation that when this material, exposed to ethanol, would be better than the prior rubbers used for mechanical fuel pump diaphrams, if it was exposed to ethanol, but then the fuel evaporated out of the pump, leaving the diaphram "dry", the material would become brittle and fail when it was again exposed to ethanol.

In both cases, keeping the entire fuel system "wet" is advisable. Which means "drive the vehicles" or "run" the engines (paying attention to duct exhaust fumes to the outside atmosphere!) as the vehicle might not be driven during "storage" times. The other issue would be that mechanical fuel pumps have now become a "maintenance" issue.

Which might lead to the idea of replacing them with electric pumps. IF the pump is a "vane" pump, the vanes in the pump can rust/deteriorate and fail. Which I've seen happen with modern vehicles that the owners were seeking to "get running again" after sitting for a good while. Which might be why OEMs have tended to move into "gear" fuel pumps rather than "vane" pumps?

Just sharing some information from other (perceived to be credible) sources and what I've observed over the years,
CBODY67

 

[BigblueC]

Other than the fuel expansion/contraction issues, the fuel volatility issues can make storing less-volatile diesel fuel a good bit different than long-term storage of more volatile gasoline products.

This is one of my concerns. I know plastic gas cans tend to swell/contract with temperature swings, which the diesel does not. I would be storing the drum in a lean-to or in an open shed so it will be swinging with the temperature. I don't want to create a hazard. I'm not sure how to vent the drum without having evaporation and/or condensation issues, which I've heard about from others but with no explanation. Obviously I don't want to store the fuel just to have 1/2 of it go bad.

Are you talking racing fuel or pump gas?

93 non-ethanol pump gas which is available near by at a station, but it's a 15 minute out-of-the-way drive 90% of the time. I run it in my old cars, power equipment, truck and Jeep. Pretty much every thing that only runs now and then or may sit for a week or two at a time.

 

[1970cat]

farm fuel tanks just have a flip type cap loosely fitted to one end , the same with heating oil drums. i don't recall anyone ever having an issue with them. maybe a gas caddy would be handy or a used heating oil tank that you could put a transfer pump on.

 

[shooter65]

I worked for a auto auction house for a brief time and we stored gasoline in a 55 gal above ground tank like @1970cat shows above. Initial fill up would have to be from 5 gal cans but a few trips and you'd be good to go. You may want to think about security also such as having the ability to lock the transfer pump.

 

[BigblueC]

maybe a gas caddy would be handy

I had thought about that but they are usually 15 gal or less, so I would be better off continuing with my four 5 gal cans.

 

[1970cat]

i stole that picture from tractor supply. i think it was 14 gallons. northern tool has 25 gallon ones but they get a little pricey as you increase capacity.