Fuse link remplacement
- Thread starter Nicko
- Start date
C Body Bob
Old Man with a Hat
I ve done it. Not the correct way but it works. The factory links are color coded. Carry a spare fuse if you go this route. Check with NAPA & see if they have the correct one
saylor
Senior Member
i'll take the "if not, why?" part -
the ATC fuse is designed to blow / pop *poof* at a surge of electricity beyond its specified rating.
the wire link however can sustain this surge longer/more is more tolerable of it - i.e. it will not blow immediately.
Say you have high beams on, and the radio, and a blinker, etc - you have some electrical draw going on. Then you turn on something else, say your heater. That surge of the new item coming on may pop your fuse. Where the link would hold thru the surge.
I hope that's a decent example...
try not to die -
- saylor
the ATC fuse is designed to blow / pop *poof* at a surge of electricity beyond its specified rating.
the wire link however can sustain this surge longer/more is more tolerable of it - i.e. it will not blow immediately.
Say you have high beams on, and the radio, and a blinker, etc - you have some electrical draw going on. Then you turn on something else, say your heater. That surge of the new item coming on may pop your fuse. Where the link would hold thru the surge.
I hope that's a decent example...
try not to die -
- saylor
Saylor has it right.
Also, that fuse holder shown isn't going to be able to carry the current needed... and you won't be able to buy a fuse to fit it that is rated high enough.
Also, that fuse holder shown isn't going to be able to carry the current needed... and you won't be able to buy a fuse to fit it that is rated high enough.
saylor
Senior Member
summitracing has premade ones, and the local vatozone should have some too
Real easy answer...
You need to buy a few of these:
Your local shop should have them, but if not,
25 Packard 56 Series Male 16-14 Gauge Terminals GM 2971962 | eBay
Buy a generic fusible link and strip insulation and attach the new ends. The old plastic connectors will slide off the old link with a little squeeze from a needle nose pliers on the terminal. Slide them on the new link and install.
You need to buy a few of these:
Your local shop should have them, but if not,
25 Packard 56 Series Male 16-14 Gauge Terminals GM 2971962 | eBay
Buy a generic fusible link and strip insulation and attach the new ends. The old plastic connectors will slide off the old link with a little squeeze from a needle nose pliers on the terminal. Slide them on the new link and install.
Take a look at this:
Fusible Link
The thread wanders a little (they all do around here), but the OP went through the same ordeal.
Fusible Link
The thread wanders a little (they all do around here), but the OP went through the same ordeal.
saylor
Senior Member
it may be time for you to study the MAD / Nacho ammeter bypass documents too, if you still have stock wiring and/or and AMP gauge.
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